Overkill Armor Protection 101 - Belly Skid Plate

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How do you access the transfer case fill plug?

-B-

B,

Here's a pic that should give you a better idea.



Sorry for the blurry/grainy pic. It was a bit on the dark side and hard to get a good angle.


As you can see, the fill plug is quite easily accessible. The end of the plate stops right about where the rear d-shaft mates up with the t-case.
 
Hey EBAG,

Any way to get a pic that isn't so blurry, a little less dark and at a slightly better angle? :flipoff2:

Sure! Lets slap this bad boy on yours, flop yours on your side, then take a nice, bright, clean, clear, and all around better picture! :flipoff2:
 
When do ya wanna come by so I can burn that hole into the right shape so it doesn't touch any longer? Before the 18th club run yeah?
 
Great work, well done, nice to see innovation!
 
Is this something you might be making, ready to go and bolt on, no welding or cutting required? Or in kit form? I like it. Even if the clearnace isn't quite as much as the others, I like the full coverage just from things like brush, trees, etc, that I'd be more likely to run over. Are the cats covered too?
 
Is this something you might be making, ready to go and bolt on, no welding or cutting required? Or in kit form? I like it. Even if the clearnace isn't quite as much as the others, I like the full coverage just from things like brush, trees, etc, that I'd be more likely to run over. Are the cats covered too?

Cat protection from theft would be a ++++++
 
Is this something you might be making, ready to go and bolt on, no welding or cutting required? Or in kit form? I like it. Even if the clearnace isn't quite as much as the others, I like the full coverage just from things like brush, trees, etc, that I'd be more likely to run over. Are the cats covered too?

I will be posting the specs here, so you could easily fab up your own.

I guess you could call that a kit. :hillbilly:

If knoll is up for doing more, then yes, we could make one ready to go (bolt on).

Shipping will be the catch, but if you're up near Portland I head that way occasionally to my wifes folks house, or might be able to arrange a mudship up there.


Cats aren't covered as they are outside the frame rail. This covers frame rail to frame rail, front sway bar to rear d-shaft (where the d-shaft mates up with the t-case).

It would be very easy to weld/bolt on some outriggers on the top of the plate to cover the cats. I am considering doing exactly that for my sliders. (My cats will be cut and turned, which should tuck them up enough that they're pretty well protected.)
 
Is this something you might be making, ready to go and bolt on, no welding or cutting required? Or in kit form? I like it. Even if the clearnace isn't quite as much as the others, I like the full coverage just from things like brush, trees, etc, that I'd be more likely to run over. Are the cats covered too?

The plate is an all one piece design and bolts right up with only six bolts that go right into the existing threaded holes already in the frame from the factory. As far as ground clearancce it isn't any less than the stock vehicle since it actually touches the rear cross member.
 
As for the cats it would be relatively easy to add protection to our original design for them. We would just need to know what if any mods you have made to your exhaust system. And yes if there is a demand I would be more than willing to start up a small business...or just make a couple.
 
"As mentioned above, I'm considering adding a plate to cover the t-case access hole."


With all that protection, you would be remiss to not make a cover plate...drill or torch a 3/8" hole on either side of the rectangular hole, weld a couple nuts on the top side of the "belly pan", and bolt thru from underneath.

Easy drop down , or swivel aside action for maintenance. This type of "belly pan" was quite common on the Caterpillar dozers, loaders, and scrapers I used to work on as a kid.

Except they used 3/8" plate;).

Great job on your "belly pan".

One suggestion...you might consider welding an angled edge on the rear, so if you ever find yourself reversing out of the rocks, you won't catch on the rocks, but will ramp up over them.

Consider posting the dimensions for tech.

Way to go!:clap:

Thank you, and sorry that I haven't been reading this thread from the begining I started at the end and may be answering a previously answered question at this point, but.

Version 1.1 will address most concerns I think. We will ensure to go fully frame rail to frame rail next time around.

Also we will use the same steel but cut the last section off...I'm thinking 6" and re attach it at a slight angle such as the front. This will actually add strength as well as give a "ramp up" if needing to revers while negotiating an obstacle.

Weight really isn't an issue I don't believe ( a passanger or cooler will out weigh this armor) but none the less I think that just thicker than 1/4" is a bit more than needed and ideally I'm thinking 3/8 will definately handle the strain that is put on it (especially if a CAT uses 3/8").

As for the protection for the T-Case access hole I'm thinking of taking a bit of scrap and cutting it to size to include front and rear approach angles as well as ground to angle so that there is no lip when it comes to contact the main armor ie \_______/ . For mounting hardware I'm thining cutting a slightly oversized hole in the acces cover for the three or four bolts to go thru. Then using scrap as a spacer between cover and main armor, providing a resess for the bolt head to be protected, drill matching holes on the main armor and as suggested tack nuts to the top of the main armor. (I really hope that made sence because it totally does in my head right now!)

With all of that being said since this is a custom build I am definately open to making any changes that a "customer" might suggest or desire. As in this case I did offer some design ideas and engineering when push came to shove the complete project was Gabe's so he had final say on all mods and design specs. Unless I get a CNC or some other seriously expensive fabbing equipment anything is doable since anything will truly be custom made from hand.

And as for strength, which I know wasn't a concern of yours but many others did mention it so, here is a stat that I found with some research:
Priced $62,000. to $200,000.
Shearing Capacity Bending Capacity
1/4" x 53" 45 tons x 53"
3/16" x 53"mild steel

Now I'm no engineer, but that sounds like one hell of a lot of force to bend quarter inch material...I'm just sayin'
 
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looks good. im thinking of doing the same. for i cant aford all that expensive **** and i do no how to weld .

This could be just as easily constructed using the most basic metal tools, not as quickly and a bit more painstakingly, but none the less can be done. A gas tourch will cut this material with a bit more slag and maybe less accurately (depending on how good you are) and the welds can all be done with a "Buzz Box" or even Oxy Acet if you really wanted to do it. As heavy as the material we chose is I don't even know that there would be much if any warping with even gas...although I'd rather use ARC or MIG...
 
You've got nothing supporting that metal in the back under the t-case. I'd put a jack under there and see how much it flexes. I think if the truck came down on that plate with all it's weight you might get contact.

This was a concern of mine, however, with the thick truly over kill material "we" chose :D Gabe :D this won't be a problem. Even if it would be the rear mounts are far enough rear that any deformation will occure rear of anything vital and provide the approach angle of version 1.1 anyway :grinpimp:
 
Instead of the usual birf party, maybe there should be a bellypan party. Make a weekend out of it. ???;p
:cool:

As mentioned before Russ, my time is free...well mostly free :beer::banana::grinpimp: to all JSC members...yeah that's a Phat plug right there comin' from the TLCA rep :grinpimp:. No but seriously join the JSC and you too can reep the benefits:grinpimp::grinpimp::grinpimp:
 
i just wonder with heat build up under form tran,cat.

With the tranny being cooled by a seperate radiator I would consider this a moot point, however, even in my FJC (that has little to no air flow underneath) overheating would not be an issue. When I did the build up on my FJC it runs fully from the All Pro front bumper to past the rear transfer case yoke and I have had no noticable increas in heat from my guages or plug in computer.
 
my time is free...well mostly free :beer::banana::grinpimp: to all JSC members...


So....you're saying your time is free if we give you a beer, a banana, and a pimp? :confused:













:D
 
So....you're saying your time is free if we give you a beer, a banana, and a pimp? :confused:
:D

Woah...yeah not so much...I was getting at beer, food...that would result in me giving you the Pimp Smile. Cuz I'ze an OG gizanksta!
 
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