Orion or Split Transfer for my FJ55 Build?

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Joined
Apr 11, 2005
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Location
Albuq, NM area
Howdy Cruiser Nuts,

I am in the planning and parts accumulation stage of my FJ55 build and am pondering the best transfer case choice: Orion or FJ60 Split?

Established so far: GM 5.7L Vortec; GM NV4500 5 sp with 6.34 low; SOA; maybe FJ62 axles for width and parking brake. Purpose of rig is highway travel to general off roading, no hardcore rock crawling in mind. If I go Orion, I would probably go 3:1. I have no fixed budget, but don't have money to burn. I already have the Advance Adapters NV4500 to 3 sp transfer adapter that could be used with the Orion.

So give me some opinions!

Thanks,
Andy
 
Hi All:

I'd say sell that AA adaptor, or trade it in on the one for the 'split t-case.

Early 'split t-cases have lower gearing (2.28 to 1 vs. 1.96 to 1) while the later production have a bigger output shaft (38mm vs. 34mm.)

You should be able to pick-up a used 'split case for not more than US$250.

Good luck on the project!

Alan
 
Thanks for the reply Alan.

I am curious as to why you favor the split case over the Orion. I'm not interested in the Orion HD.

Orion is too expensive for any gain over split case?
Orion is weaker/less durable?
Orion is problematic?
Split case is ALL Toyota, so it is OEM and readily available?
Orion does not fix all the problems of the 3 speed transfer case?

I have read everything I can find on the Orion and the split case, but can't find guidance for my particular situation.

Andy
 
D'Animal,

Yep, the Orion is cast iron case for the 1970's transfer (which is often placed behind the J30 3 speed transmission) and eliminates the case cracking problem and provides lower gear options.

The FJ60 split case is also stronger than the one piece case, no modification necessary.

I am choosing between the Orion and the FJ60 split cased transfers for my 1973 FJ55 project.

Thanks,
Andy
 
I think you will be happy with both. But I would go with the split case.
 
I have no experience with either case, but if this truck is not going to see anything hardcore, I would start thinking about which one is going to be quieter on the road... My '76 FJ55 is soo loud on the freeway... I can't tell what's louder; the engine, tranny, or transfer case (because any one of the three is so loud I can't hear the other two). I have heard the split cases are quiter than the one piece cases, but the Orion is cast iron... you have a deep first gear in your NV4500, so you probably wouldn't need the really low low range of the orion if you won't be doing any rock crawling.
I am currently building a '73 FJ55 and am using a chevy auto trans and transfer. One of my biggest deciding factors to ditch the toyota 4speed and transfer was noise and comfort on the highway while getting to the trail...
 
If it isn't hard core use, the split case would win on many levels. It's MUCH cheaper, it's easy to rebuild, it's plenty strong, etc. The problem: the gears are not as low, and you loose your emergency brake.

For a 55, I would probably stay with a stock equivalent, though. Ideal would be an H41, an Orion, your stock e-brake, and call it good for anything you will ever face.
 
i've got the orion/nv4500 combo in my 40 right now. the only time i ever use the low(4 to 1) is rock crawling situations. any other time when i'm just wheeling-it's in 4wd high and first gear-which is plenty low. right now i'm running 33's so your soa setup will be a little faster with (35's??) bigger tires. i did have this vehicle with a springover and 35's for a while and it was perfect for every situation and i used every gear option quite often. if you're not going to be in any rock crawling situations, i would definitely save the money and go with a split case. my .02

good luck
 
Thanks for all the great input.

I guess my main priority is strength/durability and I don't want to waste my money.

How much noise can that little transfer case make? I don't have much time driving the FJ55 because the tired old F motor barely runs. Noise can be helpful for drowning out the kid complaining. Too much noise will drive a person nuts.

I really like my NV4500 in my little truck (a 5.61 version) and got a good deal on this other one that included the AA 3 speed transfer adapter. Many off road adventures take several hours of pavement travel, so the overdrive helps a lot.

I haven't decided what size tires to run. The SOA comes from my belief that the spring should go on top of the axle for off road use.

Andy
 
if you are changing the rear axle in the 55 to a newer one with e-brake then go split. If you are just bolting a 55 back together with a soa and some d-lines then the orion is it. It is cast iron, offers 3 to 1 which combined with the 4500 first is pretty decent crawl and it is quiet. it has a vss kit you can buy for newer engines. I would not put a split behind a 4500 unless you get it for like 200 bucks then you can spend 500 gettin a rear axle with e-brake.
 
I have a toybox with a split case behind that. I love the setup. The split case is so much quietier that the 3 speed case and shifts 100% better. Look at how much it would cost you for a split case and a toybox if you want gearing.
 
and you loose your emergency brake.
not true,

you can build your split to take a t-case ebrake. i have one in my HJ47... factory.

if you don't need the gearing, why spend $$$ on a bling orion when the stock split is strong, available, and cheap.

and like you said, 62 axles you won't need a t-case brake.

hth's
crusty
 
Not sure how the rest of your rig is set up, but as has been noted already, you will lose the t-case mounted e-brake if you go split case. Just something to think about.

You should be able to put FJ60 rear brakes on your rear axle housing and run e-brake at the rear drums - can anyone verify that I am correct on this?
 
Pablo,

I'm sure you remember this thread about parking brake on split case conversions (you are in it!)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=143592&page=2
rick_d layed out the scoop for one way to equip a split-case with park brake.

Grant5127 posted a parts list but CDan says they are NLA. I wonder what DomSmith is deciding to do. Maybe I'll resurrect the thread and ask him. CrustyBJ60 may know of another way.

I would like to know more about: "You should be able to put FJ60 rear brakes on your rear axle housing and run e-brake at the rear drums - can anyone verify that I am correct on this?"

Or this from Stumpy: "you might consider getting a '79 and up 40 axle with the rear drum park brake. getting all that park brake crap to work on the t-case cost me more than had i gone to rear disks with park brake. the late model axles will be all toyota and give you a stronger park brake anyway."

I have an FJ62 axle pair that I am considering using on this project. These would solve the park brake issue with EITHER the Orion or split case. Among the reasons I may NOT want to use the FJ62 axles is the need to outboard the spring hangers on the front of the frame.

My real question has to do with which is the better transfer case (aside from park brake, drive line length, or even cost issues).

It seems that NO ONE thinks the Orion is stronger or more durable or easier to maintain.

Thank you everyone for the input. You are fantastic.

Andy
 
I would like to know more about: "You should be able to put FJ60 rear brakes on your rear axle housing and run e-brake at the rear drums - can anyone verify that I am correct on this?"


You can't do it. The bolt spacing on the backing plate is just wrong and will not let this happen. I just went through this exercise and ended up with an FJ62 axle in the rear of my FJ40.

Using the 60 series axles is an excellent option, however, and I strongly recommend you do this. It is true, that you need to widen the hangers, but that is not that difficult. The Roughstuff hangers are excellent/perfect for this and are a major upgrade from the stock stuff.

The 60 series rear axle is a piece of cake. Just plan on welding in new spring perches on the axle at the appropriate width and you are good to go. If you have these axles available, you should use them, expecially the trussed front.
 
Last edited:
This is what DomSmith says:

"Unfortunately I'm afraid I'm going to have to just $OR or MAF it for $500. I want to keep the ebrake as close to original as possible and I am unable to source the parts anywhere else."

Cruiserdrew, thanks for the clarification.
 
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