Optima batterys and 24 volts

[kling-on]

anyone running Red or yellow top batterys in a 24volt rig...ei 2 12's in series.. My 10 year old batterys in the new to me BJ died in our "cold" snap a wapin 35 anyway I run reds in all my other trucks but wanted to get 24volt feed back

 

[prado t]

I run 2 yellow top Optimas. I have had them for 90,000kms in my BJ 74. They see some pretty harsh conditions . No other battery could handle the conditions I put them through.

 

[Greg_B]

Read through the following threads:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/208733-deep-cycle-batteries.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/402536-24volt-batteries.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/115600-batteries-should-i-get-24v-system.html

Lots more reading with a few key search words.

I'd be tempted if I was living in the USA to go to Sears and get Diehard Platinums if post orientation works out: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/410360-optima-red-yellow.html

hth's

gb

 

[prado t]

I would not recomend red tops in a 24v set-up. If you plan on using it for a D.D. then O.K. but if it is going to sit for a month in between drives and the batteries (red tops) remain hooked up and you have a 24v-12V converter THEN NO !

If my BJ 74 was a DD for the street and light trail I would use a regular Die Hard or Deka or Napa. I do not like liquid batteries for off road use .As for the HJ 61 I use group 27 Napas because it is used as street driver .

There is my disclaimer.

 

[sailor]

I understand Optimas aren't what they used to be. Apparently they are no longer made in the states. I always felt the spiral cell design wasn't efficient use of plate volume as well. There are a bunch of cool AGM batteries available from Deka or Energy1 that are worth checking out. I am going to a pair of Gp27 agms in the cruiser.

 

[kling-on]

I have run optimas for 15 years or more and have had no problems I didn't cause ... And the diehards ate threw the fire wall on my Jeep so I hate wet batterys... I guess it sounds like I should run yellows. I don't plan on DDin it yet... But the 20 mpg sound great so who knows...but for now I'll pull the duel batterys out of my Fj60 so I can move it. And save for two yellows thanx for the info guys

 

[Greg_B]

I've had yellow tops go bad as well in 24V configurations. Very sensitive to charge differences, and then it's all downhill from there. But...its your money. Maybe you'll be one of the lucky ones.

12V configurations don't have the same issue.

hth's

gb

 

[87 HJ60]

I've run red tops now for 4 years. The only problem I ever had was one was defective after a couple of months where it wouldn't hold a charge. I replaced it and no problems ever since. I use my HJ60 as a daily driver however I had it sit for a couple of weeks and it started fine.
At the time I bought them from Wal-Mart for $135 each. They're now over $200...

 

[Captain Caveman]

I have two Optima Blue tops in a 12V config and have never had a problem... I have only witness user created problems in all of the optimas I have seen.

 

[100 TD]

6 volt, 12 volt or 24 volt, all 2 volt cells in series, nothing wrong with a 24 volt series string as long as you don't take off 12 volts in the middle of the string. If you want to run anything on 12 volt,s use a 24 to 12 converter, or a series parallel switch if you have 24 volt start , 12 volt run. Do not tap 12 volts off the individual batteries under any circumstances.

 

[Ratpuke]

I've got 2 red tops in my HZJ77. So far so good despite being told by numerous people that they would cause me problems sooner than later.

(Now where's that block of wood I had??)

 

[bsmith123]

optimas

been running yellow tops with no probs but not 24v

2 general things I learned reading up on batteries is the difference between a SLI (starter, lights, ignition) battery and a deep cycle

Lead-acid batteries maintenance & restoration: Deep Cycle vs Starting (SLI) batteries.

and also that if you use a deep cycle as your only battery then get one that is 100 CCA higher than the original SLI battery

 

[prado t]

Well I may have spoken too soon. I went to start the BJ74 the other day. It started but the starter motor sounded slower. Any how took both Yellows out and put them on Slow Charge. I found the culprit , I have one yellow top that is not doing that well. I took it off the charger and lost .2 of a volt immediatly.

 

[Greg_B]

Well I may have spoken too soon. I went to start the BJ74 the other day. It started but the starter motor sounded slower. Any how took both Yellows out and put them on Slow Charge. I found the culprit , I have one yellow top that is not doing that well. I took it off the charger and lost .2 of a volt immediatly.

Sorry to hear that, but not surprised. The beginning of the end imo. That slight difference between the two batteries will exponentially increase over time if left in the series configuration. One day you'll walk by and hear one hissing from overcharge, and the other will be undercharged.

Folks, I don't think most people who have had poor experiences with the Optimas in series configuration are dissing the battery. They are just really super sensitive to a specific charging profile and in the series configuration this means "any" charge difference between the two batteries. Once it's started...it's all done...in my experience.

prado t, let us know if you are successful in balancing them again. There's lots of literature out there on how to do it.

gb

 

[Greg_B]

6 volt, 12 volt or 24 volt, all 2 volt cells in series, nothing wrong with a 24 volt series string as long as you don't take off 12 volts in the middle of the string.

Theoretically yes. Has not been the experience with lots of folks (myself included) with the Optima's in series configuration. With no 12V taps, no incorrect draws, and healthy cables and grounds. Throw some conventional batteries in...same system/truck/setup...no problems at all.

If you want to run anything on 12 volt,s use a 24 to 12 converter, or a series parallel switch if you have 24 volt start , 12 volt run. Do not tap 12 volts off the individual batteries under any circumstances.

Cardinal rule #1, for sure.

gb

 

[prado t]

As it turns out the good one is @13V , the culprit is @ 12.8V Well after about 4 light charges I have it back at 12.9V. I will post more info when I get home later.

Well if this is the end , it was a pretty good run. Had about 5 complete discharges ( from sitting )and a 12/24v converter fire under my seat .

The only other battery that has lasted me this long was the OEM battery in my old 1990 W250 cummins ram

Thanks Greg_B

 

[canucksafari]

I am sticking with LA batteries for my 24V. The ones in my 1991 are still the original JDM batteries which came with it when I bought it 5 years ago. The 92 has a new set of LA batteries from Polar. Sitting forabout 1.5 years with a converter attached and always on probably killed them in the first month of sitting.

On a side note, a Gel Mat battery does seem the way to go if you want to use your voltage reducer as a charger for a third battery. According to Polar, they will charge fully on 13.8V while a LA needs 14.2V for a full charge.

 

[prado t]

Well I was able to balance both batteries. The problem was corrosion . I couldnt see it unless I pulled the connection clamp apart near the terminal and cleaned the copper cable.

So all is well now. My yellow top OPTIMAS are good for now.

 

[Estancio]

Only 11 years and 163,000km on my first pair of Optima Red tops in BJ71 with 24 Volt system.
Hoping my current pair of red tops beats that! All previous plate/lead/acid batteries would only give me 5 years max. Just stating the facts .... from Sparky and me.