Operation FJ day:1

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Do you think the driveshaft will have to be extended? retubed? or is there driveshaft extensions (spacers) available?

Will the upper shock mounts on the crossmember(tube) need to be moved to the rear side of the tube to align with the axle?

Brake line hoses? did anyone (everyone) have to get longer lines when they installed a lift?

yes yes yes

yes

and yes.

there are spacers available but you need to see if you'd have enough travel in your slip yoke on the stock shaft. I dunno about strength of a spacer either (maybe not the spacer itself, but does it put more leverage on the pinion, esp if you hit the shaft or flange?). another consideration is you may want thicker tube than stock for a trail rig... so another vote for re-tube. i used .188 wall.

shock mounts are NBD to do; just get some long 5/8" bolts (IIRC?), drill through the tube, and weld heads to tube. mounting further inboard gives more travel but diminishes damping; more outboard gives more damping control (my preference--i got travel in other ways, still use a 12" shock there, 14" front).

i got new hoses, plus i built a drop bracket (so the hardline/softline interface is lower than the frame). i think whether you need it depends largely on how much travel you'll have which depends on a lotta things. IIRC you can link multiple stock ones end-to-end to create a longer one... i think i have used spares if you want em.

HTH. -Ed
 
PS--sorry i haven't gotten the parts from my garage yet... i've been working ridiculous hours. yesterday got home at 2am from work... writing this one during dinner break. Will give it a shot this weekend; gimme a call to remind if you're ready for em you can meet me there & see what all you need. -Ed
 
Sounds good.....maybe sunday we could meet??

I know what you mean about being busy.....luckily for me the 40 sits in my other bay so im forced to look at it.......taunting me

but also reminding me to get this thing rollin

still not "ready" for the springs but i willl be soon so i will come and get them asap.......

thanx Ed, ill be in touch soon

P.S. heres a toughie......my fuel cell has a GM sending unit which puts out 0-90 ohms of resistance depending on whether its full or empty.......any ideas on hookin that up to the factory fuel gauge?
 
By the way Im making progress on the PS conversion though.....I am sorta copying Tom's system but my pump is a little different.....Once I got it figured out Im gonna do a series of pictures/description of what I did......

Here is the Windshield I am gonna use.....got it nearly complete for $50.....it has some rust down under the wipers but it is complete and correct to my year .........my uncle has already started rustproofing(yeah right!) and repairing (tacked in washers and duraglass:rolleyes:) this newer frame.....we could fix it better but its a trail rig so WTF

The Frame i got from Nick is immaculate....but it is the older style with inboard wiper motor and arms on the top but it has has no glass,rubber,wiper motor/arms etc..........Ill hold on to it incase/until I go swamper side up and destroy the newer style frame:grinpimp:
fj40 windy frame.webp
fj40 windy 2.webp
 
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Mini-truck PS pump installed

Well here is my 2f....minus one useless smog pump....with a mini truck PS Pump in its place.......

Used the 22re mounting bracket...chopped about a third of it away for clearance,welded a shock bolt sleeve to the bottom of it,then used Samurai driveshaft bolts to mount it to the lower smog pump bracket,also had to weld an extension onto the upper smog bracket for the right length and angle....

basically eyeballed the pulleys into alignment........:hhmm:......its better than the picture makes it look!!!

The pump in the picture isnt the one im gonna use because its for an EFI truck and has that goofy vacuum device on it......I have a whole system still on the brown bomber (84 mini truck...bad frame...motor knocks...u know a nice one) that truck is carbed has no vacuum hookups and is complete and 100% working.....but im waiting til its 0 degrees and covered in ice before i go pull it off:idea:

plan is to have the whole front end done by Christmas and move back to heavy fab on the rear frame by New Years
ps pump.webp
 
Penn Hills pays off!!!

So I went to Ed's house (thanx again Ed) to get a few pieces of the puzzle and ended up getting several dozen pieces!!


(4) 35x15.5x15 TSL SX on 15x12 Alloys only about 30-40% tread but these are gonna give my budget salvation!!!....gonna try and trailer it around and wheel next summer on them

A quick test fit on the cruiser confirmed that not only will they fit but they make my 40 LOOK like a BEAST!!!!

Also got all the leaf springs i should ever need
A lincoln locked 4.11 third for the rear
another spare bib + bezel
turn signals,xtra headlights,a tach,a radio,and more

my daughter even tryed to talk Ed out of his 80's vintage Rock 'em Sock 'em Robots......but he wasnt having it.......lol

all this for the price of a postage stamp!! practically:grinpimp:
 
Finally got the steering box and pump in for good

Also got the fenders,aprons and windshield frame on....sorta

Didnt get any pictures yet cause I still gotta push,pull,shove ,hammer,drill,some of the bolts that hold the front clip together to line up......maybe its cause I have such a wide variety of years of cruiser parts but bolt holes and the hood latch and bib hinge are all tough to get the fit and finish right on

Either way Im gonna move on to the rear frame repair/extension
mount up the new/old rear springs and work on fitting what needs to fit in my limited space

Gonna try to borrow a better camera and get some good pics of the whole truck at this point
 
Heres my progress thus far....

realized my fender hits the PS box so I gotta take a bite outta the inner fender,did the plumbing for the PS and stared with a blank stare at all the disconnected emission bull**** on this motor,there appears to be air injectors in the head? and some stupid box with a million hoses some disconnected....I dunno

P.S. I know what some of you are thinking.....the turn signals are too old(1970)......and the emblems are too new(60 series)....bah humbug
xmas fj 1.webp
xmas fj 2.webp
 
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Thanx Alan, the fenders and windshield look good in yellow,huh?

Thanks again Ed, I know later when im putting all the little touches on it i gotta go over that engine control crap

The reasons we worked on the front end now when there is still so much heavy fab to do was twofold,

First I wanted to get rid of the clutter in my garage...fenders,bib,3 windshield frames,winch plate,Power steering pieces,etc

Second I couldnt take lookin at the front end of this thing......everybody would stop by see me working on it,look at that front end and say "why are you bothering? this thing is JUNK!"
 
Junk in da trunk!!!!

At least the front looks good to inspire me......

but here is where im at with the rear,pretty much everything from the shock mount crossmember back is shot....

started to cut the rear bumper off,gonna box the rear of the frame,extend it and remount the shackle hangers
junk in the trunk 1.webp
junk in the trunk 2.webp
 
The Cut

Here it is........ what is left of it
Im too lazy to remove the rear axle while I work...so I hung it on some pieces of seatbelt:idea:
I cut off the rotted out section and "rustproofed" what I have left to work with,I reinforced the shock mounting crossmember and made it flush with the frame to mount the rear floor to....
Gonna box in the frame from outside that crossmember(where the frame is still strong) then extend a new box frame 4" longer than FJ40 stock,and then mount my remaining piece of 4"x4" box tubing between the frame within that added 4" to serve as a bumper/crossmember.....
On a bad note I forgot to take any measurements as to spring hanger location before me and the angle grinder chopped it all out.......so Im gonna have to go at your truck with a tape measure again Tom...
the cut.webp
 
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The Box

Heres my basic idea for extending the frame without going all out using tube.....

On the outside of each frame rail I added a long piece of 3/16" plate,I took advantage of holes in the remaining portion of the frame and drilled them out to 3/8",then drilled holes to match in the 3/16 plate,and used (10) 3/8" grade 8 bolts to attach the plate to the frame(it will be welded too,of course)and in the remaining 4" goes my bumper with (2) 3/4" clevis mounts for recovery.....

Now on to boxing in the inside and bottom of the frame,attaching shackle mounts,shackles and springs so I can see how much wheelbase I gained..(and if those 35's are gonna clear...)
The Box.webp
 
Ive been going thru these 2 items like crazy!

Been trying to pick up the pace but been busy with customer work

Rob building that sweet cage in a day makes me feel slow!!
discs.webp
mig.webp
 
we have a little help from bud light :D jim and i work well together it just flows we almost think the same . it really helps to have all of the tools for the job. your doing great with your project it really looks good . i was thinking about your post on the driveshaft spacers . just get some tube and i can show you how to build a DS that you will never break . mine is 1/4 thick its easy as pie building one for a trail rig .
 
Cool once I know where my rear axle will be Ill measure that up and we can do that....I got a couple exta 40 shafts we can use for parts too
 
Well here is the finished product....or so I thought turns out the rear springs are imboarded slightly under that triangle piece on the 40 frame so Im gonna add some corner gussets and mount them where they go
boxed.webp
 
Juice

Today I got the lines all hooked up and filled the ps system....then got it to run on ethyer long enough to work the air out......still got a major emissions/vacuum problem with how much crap is unhooked or bypassed....cant wait to get the fuel cell in ,plumbed,and full so I can here it run and begin to sort out my mess
plumbing.webp
 
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