Onboard Air/Water System Idea

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Joined
Sep 12, 2010
Threads
25
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234
Location
Colorado
So I have long been planning a serious on board water system, more than the gravity-feed spigot I had before. I want my water tank low and my spigot higher, so I had been designing ideas for pumps. I had a recent idea that I want feedback on.

So after daydreaming and sketching plumbing schematics, for using water pumps, an idea hit me during another day dream. I was thinking about making sliders that will act as small air tanks on each side of the rig. The primary outer bar would be welded tight and everything else welded off of it. I thought this idea would lighting my school bus a bit by not having to add an additional air tank i was planning (killing two birds with one stone). Then i got thinking about killing multiple birds with one stone. Here's the idea.

-Continuously powered and ready dual air compressors
-Plumbed to regulator that maintains 120 psi in the "system" (both sliders, possible another tank and associated pipes)
-outlet from 120 psi air system
-to a regulator that reduces air pressure to 30 psi
-to an in line air filter
-30 psi line plumbed to the top of the 10 gallon water tank
-one water line plumbed out of tank at the bottom
-water line splits outside of tank
-one line goes to cold water spigot
-the other line goes to an engine coolant heat exchanger (available commercially for this exact application)
-the hot line is plumbed from the heat exchanger to the hot water spigot next to the col
-hot water faucet will be kitchen sink sprayer. sprayer can be pulled low to fill dish, or magneted to door hatch to hold in place as shower.

This describes my primary question for the design at this point. What do you think about using the on board air system I had already planned to build and integrating it as a means to pressurize my water system. This will eliminate the need to kick on a battery draw to a water pump every time I use water. It eliminates additional devices in the rig (water pumps). I think it also would ultimately use less amperage comparatively. I like my rocks to kill many, many birds, as even with a 100 LC space is limited (3 kids, dog, camping). If the tanks were always held at 120 psi, then once you turn the truck off at camp at night you can use your water system with "stored energy". because until the whole air system reduces to 30 psi, the water will still come out without using any energy with the engine off at camp. The idea of stored energy is huge in the "green world". Making "energy" (in physics terms, not electrical terms), when it is available cheap and using it later when it is expensive. i.e. making 120 psi pressure when the engine is already running to use 30 psi when the engine is not. I have to say...I think this idea is frigging genius, but that's why I brought it to you guys...to crush my little hopes, dreams and ego! lol!

Issues I see:

Dirty air mixing and touching my water. I have not yet researched for air filtering products that would work in this application, so I need to do work on this issue. I could put a breather on the intake to the air compressors. I will have those in the engine, so I could run a line on the intake that goes outside the engine bay. As a friend said to me though, "that's doesn't do anything for the slider air tank air mixing with your water". This is where a filter before the water would come into play.

I still have to have a pump to pump water into the tank from a creek. I don't mind that though, it will be used rarely and I can keep the engine running while it's filling the tank. No worries about that.

Okay, what about that? :hhmm:
 
Filtering is not an issue with the proper filter. MMC has a decent line of filters. I'm using one of theirs that filters down to .3 micron downstream of my coalescing filter to remove oil vapor and smaller particles.

McMaster-Carr

Using your sliders as air storage is fine; have you calculated the volume? FYI: I'm using two 1-gallon air tanks I sourced from George at Extreme Outback: Welcome to our Website : Extreme Outback He doesn't list these small tanks on-line...but they are very small and I ended up mounting them between my sliders (using two for total 2-gallon storage) and body where they are protected.
 
You can put valves in the lines from the tanks before combining them. That way a puncture to a tank or line doesn't kill the whole system.

Using air pressure to move water has been done for ages and your ideas look good.

Small format air filters and pressure regulators are available.

An issue of slider tanks is water condensation in the tank. Where to put the drain valve? Some sort of tube to a low point with a line exiting the tank at some safe spot would be needed. Don't let them fill up with water as freezing will split the tubes.

Coat the insides of the slider tanks with an anti-corrosion treatment of some sort.

As a few data points on tube size vs. volume. All .25" wall tubes. A 2" tube with a 1.5" ID provides 0.0918 gallons per foot of length. Going to 2.5" tube, 2" ID, gives 0.1632 gallons per foot of length. Going to a 3" OD/ 2.5" ID goes up to .255 gallons per foot. The problem is the weight for the sliders increases allot. There is roughly 66% more steel in the 3" sliders than the 2" ones. With 5' long sliders, that amount of steel extra steel could be placed in two 4"OD/0.125"wall/3.75"ID x 32" long tanks between the frame rails for 1.5 times the total tank volume.

A 4" diameter tube with 0.125" wall thickness gives 0.574 gallons per foot. A single 32" long by 4" tube would give 1.53 gallons and that would fit crosswise between the frame rails. Two or three could be tucked up above the spare tire in a mini truck and not impact the position of the spare tire. It should also be possible to use .08" thick metal, but I think the end caps would need to be built with a more traditional pressure tank dome style ends rather than flat plates welded on the ends.

Viair has a couple 2.5 gallon tanks (#21025 and #91028) that are 6" in diameter and 24" long. They could easily go into a spare tire location. I'm thinking of putting one into my ARB bumper's winch spot.

Yeah, I was playing with placements and calculations on air tanks a week ago so I had an available spread sheet with most of the calculations already in it.
 
:lol: Shaken up soda water.:eek:
 
Thanks guys.

Good thought about the sliders. Maybe trying to use those for this application is a bad idea. I was just trying to do more with less, but when you think about how thick the sliders have to be as armor, makes them less useful as tanks. The condensing issue is also there.

I didn't know viair had a tank that was only 6" diameter!
 
I didn't know viair had a tank that was only 6" diameter!
Many places do, but they are usually the single leg 1/2 and 1 gallon ones. When they go larger, usually you see them up the diameter to at least 7". I was a bit surprised when I found these two from them. One is even rated for 200PSI, the other 150PSI. It has mounting legs welded to it that makes it stand about 7.5" tall, but I figure they can be safely shortened by up to an inch. Doing that, it should fit into the ARB bumper I'm putting on the '95 4Runner. I did a writeup on the idea with links and part numbers https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ir-tank-should-fit-arb-deluxe-bar-bumper.html. The bumper even has lightening holes that allow access to the ports on the tank ends. Viair also has a 2 gallon 150 PSI tank that is the same diameter, just shorter in length.
 
so it sounds like the sliders are a waste of time to do in order for them to be effective. Have you thought about utilizing your frame? I have only seen this a couple of times but it does interest me.
 
Many places do, but they are usually the single leg 1/2 and 1 gallon ones. When they go larger, usually you see them up the diameter to at least 7". I was a bit surprised when I found these two from them. One is even rated for 200PSI, the other 150PSI. It has mounting legs welded to it that makes it stand about 7.5" tall, but I figure they can be safely shortened by up to an inch. Doing that, it should fit into the ARB bumper I'm putting on the '95 4Runner. I did a writeup on the idea with links and part numbers https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ir-tank-should-fit-arb-deluxe-bar-bumper.html. The bumper even has lightening holes that allow access to the ports on the tank ends. Viair also has a 2 gallon 150 PSI tank that is the same diameter, just shorter in length.

HA! This is an idea I can work with. With I got my ARB for my LC at a warehouse clearance sale, it had no lights. (see picture below) It is now installed, but still with no lights. I had thought about fabbing some sort of storage in there for straps and such, but I will have to check out your thread.

so it sounds like the sliders are a waste of time to do in order for them to be effective. Have you thought about utilizing your frame? I have only seen this a couple of times but it does interest me.

The concern I have with the frame now is the same as the sliders...the water that forms inside... Good thought though, and I am sure there is a way it "could" be done.
 
For your water tank, use a small accumulator... Air tank... for a household well fed water system. It has a rubber membrane to separate the air and water.


Mark...
 
For your water tank, use a small accumulator... Air tank... for a household well fed water system. It has a rubber membrane to separate the air and water.


Mark...

I was thinking about this too. Have you ever seen a square shaped one? I just just hate the idea of wasting space in a trailer build with a round one. But for a CO2 powered system this it probably the best option.
 
I have never seen a square one, and I would be surprised if there are any. The extra expense of making a square one, the added complication of the design, the higher potential for leaks and the lack of a demand for it... I'd bet money there is no such animal.


MarK...
 
Mark beat me to it - you need a bladder. Way better solution than coatings and filtration if you want potable water.

Another avenue to pursue may be fire fighting foam system bladder tanks. Nowadays many foam systems use pumps but the tried and true method of pumping foam was a bladder tank presurized with water from the fire pump. Would work for your purposes.

Any bladder that is durable would work inside you're own pressure tank. You want to be able to transfer an equal volume, pressure tanks designed for heating or plumbing may not completely empty, I'm not sure.

And there are air-actuated double diaphragm pumps that would be altogether too easy...
 
I spent a few minutes searching and reading about accumulators, and everything I read still requires a water pump. Nothing discussed connecting a supply of air pressure. It looks to me like an accumulator is similar to an expansion tank in design...pre-pressured...limited volume. However, I like where these ideas are going.

I have thought about the bladder, but hadn't really come up with a feasible design. it seems you need a bladder to nearly fill the water tank, but also shrink down to nearly nothing without kinking and tearing when full of water. A homemade design would be really tricky I think.

i would probably have to concede to a bigger tank and not filling it completely or draining it completely. That could be troublesome...

Thanks for the ideas, and please keep them coming. I want to do what I can to not have to rebuild a system after finding it doesnt work. Alas...that is the nature of this hobby, so it likely won't work out like that anyway...lol.
 
And there are air-actuated double diaphragm pumps that would be altogether too easy...

I want to know more about this. Are you describing a "water pump" that is powered by compressed air as opposed to electricity? That is certainly another possible way to use the "stored energy" of 120psi air tank. The second battery works hard enough to keep my fridge cold on warm summer nights or daytime at the camp...I hate to have a pump electric draw at the same time.
 
In my house an electric water pump pushes water into the system working against the pre-pressurized accumulator. Mine is a 110 gallon unit I think. So everything you read for homes I'm sure is similar with a well pump or something.

The trick in the trailer application would be how you fill the accumulator during travel. Its not like there is a big fill cap on the top. But once filled it will completely empty for all practical purposes.

To refill you'd have to have a strong pumped water supply or bleed off the air pressure and start over.
 
Small RV electric pumps are quite low current draw. Some are as small as 2.5 Amps to produce 1 GPM. That will do a single RV faucet. If you want more flow, more energy is required.
 
In my house an electric water pump pushes water into the system working against the pre-pressurized accumulator. Mine is a 110 gallon unit I think. So everything you read for homes I'm sure is similar with a well pump or something.

The trick in the trailer application would be how you fill the accumulator during travel. Its not like there is a big fill cap on the top. But once filled it will completely empty for all practical purposes.

To refill you'd have to have a strong pumped water supply or bleed off the air pressure and start over.


To refill just remove the air pressure line and gravity feed into the lower 'water" section with a line that is higher than the tank. Or feed from a hose if you are at home or some other place where this is available.This will expel the air and fill it with water.
Hook it all back up, and the pressurized air will push the water out until it is completely empty. Simple stuff.

All of these tanks have a fitting at the top to bleed the air pressure or add to it. So whether they are "pre-pressurized or not is not really a factor.


Mark...
 
On filtering the air. Plumb the air through a regulator, then oil and water filters. After that for particles, run it through a 1 micron water filter.

As for the pressurized tank, a soda premix cannister sounds good. They are available up to 5 gallons. Rated to 160PSI so it could handle a regulator failure. Remove the plastic bottom and you could heat it in a fire, or you could fill it with a mix of hot and cold water for showering. Fittings exist to easily hook them up to hoses, and a simple tap is also available for connecting to the output port. Refilling the tank, release the pressure, open the top, and pour in from a jerry can. Clean out is easy as the opening is large enough to easily reach in. You could even carry a few of them and use them as your jerry cans. Of course, is that one filled with water or beer?

This post has links to the cannisters, etc.. https://forum.ih8mud.com/expedition-builds/308564-onboard-shower-ideas.html#post4760722
 
I want to know more about this. Are you describing a "water pump" that is powered by compressed air as opposed to electricity? That is certainly another possible way to use the "stored energy" of 120psi air tank. The second battery works hard enough to keep my fridge cold on warm summer nights or daytime at the camp...I hate to have a pump electric draw at the same time.

Lots of sources, may be too large and industrial to justify for your purposes. But here's a simple web search -

air powered diaphragm pump - Google Search

You're home pressure tank will not pump out all the water that it holds, only until the air "spring" pressure that is created by the water side compressing the spring is returned to equilibrium. You can add more initial pressure but it must be pumped into the storage tank in order for the accumulated air pressure to pump out the water.

In your house, the tank only provides a cushion so your well pump doesn't short cycle every time you flush the toilet or get a drink from the tap. Not really a storage mechanism.

And numerous electric diaphragm pumps exist for almost all gpm and amp specs.

If you go the filtration route, all you need to build is a simple straw siphon and you could pump water out of any container that would hold the amount of pressure you want to achieve out of the spigot.
 

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