ome ps or 60's ps on BJ42?

[Wimpie]

i want to put ps on my bj42
being in europe saginaw is not an option.
so its going to be original ps (i know someone who sells one) or the ps from a 60.

What would be the best? or what what would you guys do?
And please don't say saginaw, i have to chose between the ome ps or 60.

If someone has some pics of an ome ps from a bj42, there more then welcome.

 

[mikealeus]

I'm assuming you mean OEM as Old Man Emu does not make power steering. There is somebody that did a mini-truck power steering on a BJ42 and is real happy with it, Check the diesel section. If you can't find it PM me and I can find out who it is.

 

[PabloCruise]

I went 60 series on my FJ40.

I like it over the 40 series mounting b/c it eliminates 2 TRE's and the center arm - all sources of slop.

See the link in my signature...

 

[flaminbandit]

60 series is the way to go i convereted my fj45 with factory power steer to 60 series as its heaps better

 

[Henry James the 47th]

well, finding the oem set up will prove difficult and very expensive, but it is pretty much a bolt in, with the added need to modify the steering column shaft length. If you go with the 60 series, you need to weld up a mounting on the chassis, modify/change the shock tower, add custom steering shaft and supports, modify the steering linkage, and chop a section out of inner portion of the fender. It's a good set up, by all accounts, though as a non-stock modification it is not so desirable to many buyers, if that enters into your considerations.

 

[lfd270ben]

I went with 60 series powersteering and a saginaw pump and it works great.

 

[bad_religion_au]

If you go with the 60 series, you need to weld up a mounting on the chassis,

in AUS, the accepted way is to bolt it in, with crush tubes through the middle... welding to chassis is highly frowned apon by our vehicle mod laws. bolting works fine (square plate with 4 holes, not a biggy).

modify/change the shock tower

you need to move it, and reverse which way the shock pin goes into the tower. . apart from the extra hole or 2 you have to drill for mounting (if your diff is in the standard place, you can reuse one of the original holes), the whole lot is reverseable... and only an anal retentive cruiser owner would pick up that the hole isn't factory (there are heaps of unused ones there already)

add custom steering shaft and supports, modify the steering linkage

standard 55 series column (uni joint end, not rag joint, and a bearing support at the base), coupled with a standard 75 series intermediate shaft works wonders here, easier (especially if your going to get the modification transport approved) than trying to get custom shafts done... as difficult as the shaft mods needed for the factory setup.

as for the steering linkages, a set of 75 series tie rod/drag link/steering arms, or 60 series (need a slight trim, not an issue at all) is all you need. the bonus is that tires over 33 don't hit, and you eliminate a hell of alot of slop from the relay rod/box.

chop a section out of inner portion of the fender. It's a good set up, by all accounts, though as a non-stock modification it is not so desirable to many buyers, if that enters into your considerations.

if selling for originality, a replacement fender isn't THAT hard to come across. but then again, if the buyer is anal retentive enough to pick that a good 60 series power steering conversion (using ALL factory toyota parts...), then they will know that the factory setup shouldn't be on a cruiser of the vintage we're talking about (they'll know the years PS came out...)

but worst case scenario, you can reverse all of it, with the exception of 1 bolt hole in the chassis...

if your worried about that, then the rig probably isn't driven enough to warrant PS.

i've driven both, ANd considered both for a very long time.... there is no advantage to standard ps, and it costsmore