OME 2.5 with 18'' need 35's ?'s

[joe dirt]

Recently installed OME 2.5 on my 05 TLC so looking to go larger than my current tire size of 275/70/18 . I read many great threads on 35's but found little info on larger than 275's on 18'' rims. Info I have found is 295/70/18 and 35x12.50x18 should fit but no mention of spacers and or body lifts. Any other 18'' tire sizes i should consider? I will not be wheeling this hardcore yet due to my Tacoma is built but getting tired with 283k
Thanks in advance .

 

[OregonLC]

295/70R18 will fit without spacers if using stock arms. Some people will say it rubs but it all depends upon how much you flex the vehicle. You will have some rubbing on the plastic fender liner at the rear of the well at intermediate steering angles.

 

[hoser]

There is a decent selection of tires in the 285/75R18 size which is approximately 35x11.25

 

[artwerks]

I don't have much to add here other than my experience and speculation.
I'm running 295/65R18 GY Duratracs ~33". I LOVE this tire! GY Duratracs don't come in the 295/70R18 size I think your only option in that size is the Nitto Terra Grappler and they are not true 35", they are just a little over 34"...?
I use spacers with my current tire and did get a little rubbing as OregonLC mentioned. These tires DID fit with no spacer, albeit just barely -- they are about 1/8" from hitting the UCA.
295/70R18 will rub even worse than my 295/65R18s, but perhaps removing the spacers would solve that issue; however, I know one other person (patyflyer) that runs the 295/70R18 with no spacers and swears he needs to do a 1" body lift. He does a LOT of offroading like myself, however.
All that said, I don't think 35x12.50x18 will fit without spacers. Add spacers and you now have to worry about damaging your fender when the front wheels tuck whilst offroading. I'm guessing you will have to not only cut the rear inner fender plastic, but also pound back that pinch weld. I think you should do this so that I know if it's an option for me or not
I want bigger tires eventually, but I do NOT want to body lift, so I will be watching your thread for future options...

Aj

 

[OregonLC]

I love my 295/70R18s. They'll roll right over a lot of big stuff. And you're right, they're 34.5" tires.

For me, there was plenty of clearance from the stock UCA, but the TC UCA's rubbed. Which caused me to go with 1" spacers, which increased the scrub radius necessitating folding over the pinch weld. Slippery slope as Dan says.

I see that you have an 03+ LX... if I were to do it over again (and had a similar vehicle), I'd be very tempted to keep the AHC system and run 33s with a 1" body lift for clearance. Keeps the CV at factory angles without the need to buy a diff drop and gives you more droop than a suspension lift. Plus the AHC is super comfy. Not sure how I'd sort out the added weight on the AHC system but I'd probably start with LC takeoff springs.

 

[joe dirt]

Thanks for sharing info everyone ! Now I just need to make the larger tire size purchase so I can sleep at night.

 

[CappyKD]

I am running the Nitto 295/70R18's in my LX with no lift. (AHC) I get a super slight rub on the plastic covering the pinch weld and a slight rub on the frame at full lock. When in AHC high mode, I only rub the plastic on the pinch weld when stuffed.

HTH.

 

[CappyKD]

I love my 295/70R18s. They'll roll right over a lot of big stuff. And you're right, they're 34.5" tires.

For me, there was plenty of clearance from the stock UCA, but the TC UCA's rubbed. Which caused me to go with 1" spacers, which increased the scrub radius necessitating folding over the pinch weld. Slippery slope as Dan says.

I see that you have an 03+ LX... if I were to do it over again (and had a similar vehicle), I'd be very tempted to keep the AHC system and run 33s with a 1" body lift for clearance. Keeps the CV at factory angles without the need to buy a diff drop and gives you more droop than a suspension lift. Plus the AHC is super comfy. Not sure how I'd sort out the added weight on the AHC system but I'd probably start with LC takeoff springs.

Agreed, I love my 295's too. As for the AHC comments, that's exactly what I did only I used new OEM, non AHC 100 rear springs. So far, no need for a body lift, and that is running the 34.6" Nittos.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

I'm also trying to figure out whats the largest diameter tire that can realistically be used without doing a body lift on a 2.5" lift. I do mild off roading. I just re-geared to 4.88" and my 285/75/16 tires need to be replaced. I'm willing to upgrade to 18" rims and wonder if 285/75/18 tires would work? Is anyone running this size tire without a body lift?

 

[spressomon]

^ they're going to rub unless you adjust your bump stops to keep the tire from rubbing on the fender liner and/or not compressing the front suspension (read: normal non-aggressive type driving all things off-pavement). This assumes you have also flattened the pinch weld and trimmed the plastic bubble, apart of the fender liner, that covers the pinch weld AND you're running a maximum wheel spacer thickness of about 10mm. You also may need to adjust your L/R steering adjusters...more than likely not given ~285mm width...YMMV but not a big deal to adjust if you need to.

I've switched up and am now running 1" front wheel spacer adapters with 10mm rear wheel spacers. Because I'm running ~3.5* caster I get just a little interference at the lowest portion of the inner fender skirt...where the pinch weld is located...at full/near full steering lock and compressed suspension. Whereas with the 10mm spacers up front there was zero interference (NOTE: I am running a 1" body lift).

You might get a little inside of the rear fender skirt area rub too at max stuff depending on where your bottom out is relative to tire-to-fender position.

Lastly if you run Toyo MT in this size (285/75R18) you will more than likely have more interference issues due to their increased relative tread width and height.

A 1/2" body lift will help considerably albeit not fully eliminate interference potential between tire and fenders/fender liners. The obvious benefit to the 1/2" (10-12mm) body lift is the relatively simple install: No radiator, steering shaft, etc., mods required.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

^ they're going to rub unless you adjust your bump stops to keep the tire from rubbing on the fender liner and/or not compressing the front suspension (read: normal non-aggressive type driving all things off-pavement). This assumes you have also flattened the pinch weld and trimmed the plastic bubble, apart of the fender liner, that covers the pinch weld AND you're running a maximum wheel spacer thickness of about 10mm. You also may need to adjust your L/R steering adjusters...more than likely not given ~285mm width...YMMV but not a big deal to adjust if you need to. I've switched up and am now running 1" front wheel spacer adapters with 10mm rear wheel spacers. Because I'm running ~3.5* caster I get just a little interference at the lowest portion of the inner fender skirt...where the pinch weld is located...at full/near full steering lock and compressed suspension. Whereas with the 10mm spacers up front there was zero interference (NOTE: I am running a 1" body lift). You might get a little inside of the rear fender skirt area rub too at max stuff depending on where your bottom out is relative to tire-to-fender position. Lastly if you run Toyo MT in this size (285/75R18) you will more than likely have more interference issues due to their increased relative tread width and height. A 1/2" body lift will help considerably albeit not fully eliminate interference potential between tire and fenders/fender liners. The obvious benefit to the 1/2" (10-12mm) body lift is the relatively simple install: No radiator, steering shaft, etc., mods required.

Thanks for the informative post. Looks like I'm going to need a .5" body lift to realistically run 285 75 18's. Who sells these? I can only find a 1" kit so far.

 

[TeCKis300]

Curious why fender rolling is never talked about when needing clearance against the body for tires. Coming from the lowered track car scene, and stuffing a 295s in place of a stock 215... It's relatively easy to gain another 12mm or so with a mild roll. Granted, a eastwood roller wouldn't quite reach a 35"+, but there are ways to make this work I would think.

 

[spressomon]

^ Nate posted this in his build thread....Here starting at #145 (but Nate's whole build thread is chock full of great ideas and worthy of the read): https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/516514-nates-down-under-build-8.html

Mod/Trunk Monkey: I don't think Nate's build is linked in our ROTM/build threads in FAQ. It would be useful IMO to have his build thread listed and represented there for easy access downstream...thx Dan

 

[spressomon]

SanDiego: I think Joneseys offers 1/2" BL? If you have access to a drill press or even just a hand jig saw and hand drill (~3/8" bit) you can fab the body puck spacers with nothing more. You can source the black UV resistant material from McMaster-Carr, et al vendors...or just head down to your local wallyworld/Target and use the typical 1/2" thick white cutting board (not the super rigid plastic/wood/bamboo type...but the cutting boards made from UHMW or similar).

 

[Mxndrnks]

Craig, I have a drill press if you want to fab your own per ^^^ Spresso.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

If .5" isn't quite enough and 1" is adequate, how about a .75" body lift?

 

[spressomon]

.75" is going to basically be the same amount of install effort/mods as a 1"...so no point to it IMO. Go big or go home

10-12mm (nominal 1/2") body lift is a relatively easy install; typically no radiator brackets/shroud project...ditto for the ghost body retainers in the 3rd row...and ditto again for the steering shaft/coupler spacer. And it does a commendable job of eliminating all but the big-hit suspension compression fender liner to tire interference in front.

And typically OEM body mount bolts can be reused...certainly no aftermarket bolts/nuts need to be sourced...be sure to check your rig to verify at least 1/2" of threads exposed on each body mount bolt...YMMV.

 

[tabraha]

Craig I was out in Ouray with you at 100s with 285/75r18s and no body lift. Had some rubbing at full lock but had no issues on any obstacles we encountered. I had to add a point here and there on the Black Bear switchbacks but that was about it. I don't recall really hitting any obstacles that really flexed everything out though.

I have a Jonesy's BL sitting in the box. ACC flexed the truck out before the trip and was of the opinion the rubbing was acceptable and advised me to hold off on it until after Ouray once I had some time with it in its current state. As it stands right now I can live with the occasional rub.

Might want to try no BL and then if you need to add it then no big deal? Seems like we see a pretty good spread on fitments that work even when stock so who knows until you try. Dans rub was pretty severe IIRC when I asked him about it but I also think he has a heavier load out than most. (Mines no tinker bell though when the fam and associated gear is on board)

Just wanted to give you one more data point even though I don't have the seat time on this size that spresso has.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TeCKis300]

^ Nate posted this in his build thread....Here starting at #145 (but Nate's whole build thread is chock full of great ideas and worthy of the read): https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/516514-nates-down-under-build-8.html

Thanks Dan. Though I was talking about rolling the fender out rather than cutting it for clearance if it's only a bit more space that is needed. Rolling can be pretty effective to gain more clearance without even distorting the exterior body lines.

 

[spressomon]

I imagine with roll out a custo inner fender liner would be needed?