Okay, I want to re-torque the head bolts, but I'm lazy...

[toyteg08]

So here's the deal -

My brake booster took a dump on me and I need to replace it. No biggie (hopefully).

I also have a PO401 code I need to fix soon, as smog testing is coming up in a month or so. I figure I'll pull the intake plenum, replace the EGR VSV, clear out the TB to EGR port, clean out the carbon from the plenum and runners, change the plugs, replace the leaky valve cover gasket, blah blah blah....

I see a small amount of oil seepage from between the head and block as it sits right now. ~180K mi on original HG. No other signs of HG failure - yet.

I'm sure it's imminent and I should do it while I'm at it and my motor will blow up as soon as I put everything back together (<--- not pessimism - it's called time-hardened realism), but it doesn't NEED to be done right now, and situations usually (always) end up way harder and crappier for me when I try to do PM and nip things in the bud.

So, if I wanted to tighten up the head bolts, is it as simple as putting zip ties on (one for the cam gear teeth and one to keep the chain propped up so it doesn't slip on the crank gear), pulling the cams, and snugging up the bolts?

Note that I'm not asking anyone's opinion on whether I should just go all the way and pull the head. Yes, I actually agree with you. It WOULD be better. But what is only a little more work in theory, means old, rusted, frozen, broken parts and extra weeks of downtime for good 'ol me (and others I'm sure). If I don't HAVE to do it, I shouldn't. I have cursed hands.

I guess you could say that if that's the case, I should leave the head bolts alone too, but humor me here....

Sorry this post is rambling. Here is the actual question: "So, if I wanted to tighten up the head bolts, is it as simple as putting zip ties on (one for the cam gear teeth and one to keep the chain propped up so it doesn't slip on the crank gear), pulling the cams, and snugging up the bolts?"

Thanks

- Jon

P.S. - No, I haven't done a compression test, in case anyone asks.

 

[toyteg08]

Well, I didn't THINK it was a stupid question...

 

[elhombre]

It is not a stupid question, I don't think that many have tried to stop a "leak" by re torquing head bolts. I have not had to do this, and I wouldn't for the this reason. IF your head and engine block are in good FLAT shape, the only reason a leak would develop is because the gasket material has crapped out. RE torquing the bolts will not fix the gasket. If the gasket is crapping out on you and it is in the state where some areas are solid with others not so solid. Re-torquing the bolts would squeeze down on a non-uniform surface. Now, have the engine go through multiple heat cycles, it seems predictable that the head would warp to the un-level surface fairly quickly AND more head gasket will go to poop.

If you are truly as LAZY as me, don't do anything until you have to. A fine running engine with a small seep should be left alone. If it bothers you soooo much to keep you awake at night with the dreaded HG fever, then save up the money now and do it right one time only, after if finally goes out

If that doesn't convince you, ponder this: Once you loosen those head bolts, the holes and threads MUST be cleaned out. IF not, the next time you tighten them down, then the bolts will have crap (surface rust) which will get in the way and cause too much friction. Thus, giving a false torque reading, resulting in an uneven clamping of the head to the block.

I am far from a an engine builder, so maybe a discussion will ensue at least to add more, or shoot me down .

 

[Tools R Us]

In the "good old days" it was somewhat common to retorque head bolts. On a 1FZ, I would not do it. They are torque to yield, so would need to fully loosen, then go through the steps to torque. I would leave them alone or do a full head gasket job.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Definitely don't loosen and then retighten with the head in place. You'll 100% have a problem then - coolant and/or oil in some of the bolt holes. No way. As for simply checking the torque, I agree that won't accomplish anything. So I would recommend against it. Even if there were a small chance it would correct a leak (I don't think this at all), there is not going to be a good torque reading on the bolts which have been sitting in place for 18 years and will have enormous startup friction in the tightening direction - making "torqueing" a meaningless description. It would actually be "random tightening with no uniformity whatsoever" which is the very LAST thing you want to do with a looooong head with suspected gasket failure.

DougM

 

[toyteg08]

Well, food for thought from the more experienced...

I guess I'll just leave it alone.

Thanks guys!

Jon