Okay another weird sound question

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Well since I have the day off and it's a crappy day weather wise I am going to pull both rear the axles AGAIN and maybe pull one side bearings and give them both closer look (full float). Going to disconnect the DS and spin the pinion yoke again with no load now that the truck has sat for 24 hrs. and the gear oil has settled instead of last time it was tested 20 minutes after driving, may or may or may not affect it but I agree most everything is pointing to the rear end not the DS or TF. The rotational noise that sounds like tire tread just maybe the pinion bearing. A worn spider gear set that is chipped and disfigured at the tip ends can cause a whipping of the gear oil to cause bubbles or popping sound inside the case. Hate to destroy a ring and pinion set so might as well dive deep and stop fishing around. I can deal with strange noise in the night, but not my old 45 beast.

Thanks whitey
 
I have rebuilt numerous differentials over the years and most of the time it's the bearing races that lose there hardness and become pitted. Things can spin and feel ok, but under load it becomes an issue. Good luck, nice messy job!!
 
Okay pulled the axles again but have not pulled the hubs to check wheel bearings yet. The axles look fine at the splines and seal ends.
I apologize for the horrible sound (have to listen hard) as I made two short videos with my cell phone to try and capture any abnormalities if any. This will not make the Oscars but it's a start.
I used a small stubby screwdriver to crank the yoke around as the yoke feels a bit stiff to turn fast by hand.
Used a spring scale to check its break and it starts at around 3-4lbs to start turning. I was kind of under the impression that the yoke should be very light to turn, almost where you could spin it, but I could be wrong.
The most sound made is a shushing sound if that's the correct word to use. The seal cover looks a bit offset when I spin the yoke but I tapped it a bit and it's pretty much without any wobble and still make that sound heard on the video.
That's about it for now will work the bearing in a few days. Hope this is a help other that posts that go on and on.


Youtube



 
Not suppose to have any sounds????
I would think but I'm not the pro. Rear diffs were items I never really messed with, and I probably shouldn't now, but I'm into it now..
How about the pull scale of 3-4 lbs. brake away?
 
I literally pulled the plug about an hour ago on the rear diff, as in pulled the drain plug, something I should of done sooner. Yeah look at the pictures, makes me nervous, if this was an aircraft engine it would be grounded or on a side of a mountain. Can't read any serial numbers on the shavings so its hard to tell if its a bearing/race, or R/P since all internal parts are steel.
I had the rear end service in September of 2014 for a backlash adjustment at a diff shop down town, now I wonder if to much was implied or just normal wear after the resetting of the backlash. Will pull the 3rd in a few days and take a look at the R&P gears. Well I had to check everything else to get to this point but that's what we do.

Thanks


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but that's what we do.

Thanks
 
That's a fair amount of material but not too unusual. You will need to pull the carrier and pop the pinion out, almost put money on worn pinion races or carrier bearings. You just had the backlash set without checking the bearings? If you had too much backlash there is an underlying problem.
 
well there ya go.....you were not crazy after all ;)
 
thanks whitey45, I don't know man that seems to be a lot for that amount of time and that plug was clean when installed. Heck when I first did a drain and fill it did not look like that. They did have all the bearing out for inspection at my request and it was put back together with no known bearing issues.
Little after my last post my partner came over and talked me into remove the 3rd since it was no big deal, so now it's out and thank goodness the R&P look pretty darn good but the pinion bearing cage moves ever so slightly if I hold the ring gear and move the pinion yoke, may be shims, bearing or both. Well my friend has set me up with a gent that has been rebuilding diff for about 15 years on the side at his home so for $150 labor and I buy the parts, it's the next step. I might as well install a bearing/shim kit while its out. I hope the R&P pass the inspection or I will be living in the basement for a few weeks, wife just bought a new couch set........Ahh
Landpimp believe me I am crazy


Pictures of when in was on the beach for resetting of the backlash


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I didn't know that magnet was fresh and clean not long ago, so someone set up your gears wrong!! That material is normal after 100k miles!! $150 is cheap to set up gears!
 
my 82 fj40 has some gear whine in the rear, there was some wear on the ring and pinion when we went thru it 12 years ago, I meant to put a spare R&P set from my 60 in, but kinda forgot with all the other stuff we had going on. 12 years latter, the whine is the same, if I recall its only when I let off the gas.
 
Yeah $150 is a real good deal, he is all set up with every device known to man for differential work as my friend tells me. My friends 1970 Bronco diff was done by him and when he got it back he had a list of all specs, parts, used for his history records, that's pretty good for a home repair guy.
That is the cost side of the ring gear as I was told. I guess the perfect sweet spot is between the two coast and drive. My friend said that the chances of the ring and pinion gears retaining a memory are pretty high being 30 years + old so the chances are that I may have to live in the basement after all, with my new ring and pinion gear set, hope not. I talked with the gent today that builds and repairs the diffs and he said that he was an old Land Cruiser nut for a while started with an old 40 and ended with a FJ62 that he beefed up, but the kids came along and it had to go for a soccer van.
Just bought the bearing master kit for a round $120 so my wife was good about that. Soon as the parts arrive it going to the man.
 
Pulled the 3rd yesterday to be sent in for bearings/shims/setup. Just waiting to hear from the gent when to drop it off.
The spiders gears and side gears look to be 50/50 so if they are questionable and if they need to go I am considering a aussie locker.
Ring and pinion look good.
Will advise on what he finds that maybe a source of the sound if anything.
 
Hi Kev
Yeah, now would be the time for that locker to be installed just got to watch the wallet. Isn't there another model locker that is not so aggressive that works well with a daily driver and good when off road?
How's the weather up in your neck of the woods? Spring is breaking here.
 
Aussie lockers are aggressive on the street. Last one I had would scrub the tires in tight turns. Great Offroad however. I have a brand new auburn gear limited slip I could sell for $300 shipped!
 
Thanks whitey45 I will have to pass on that after reading some information on the Aussie locker that is a fine locker but maybe to aggressive on the streets for a daily driver for my needs.
I am leaning towards Richmond Powertrax Lock Right as they have some good write ups and a few are that they are not as aggressive on tires on street corners when turning and parking lots and perform fairly well off road.
But the main issue here is the noise in the rear so as said will see what transpires when the diff is taken apart and inspected.
Thanks again
 
Aussie lockers are aggressive on the street. Last one I had would scrub the tires in tight turns.

I totally disagree. Mine works flawlessly. I don't notice it at all on pavement. And I don't have excessive wear on my rear tires. I think the long wheel base on our trucks, and the less than tight turning radius make them an ideal match for the Aussie.

You do need to be aware of it on icy streets and not lay into the throttle too hard. Same as icy or muddy off camber trails.

Put in the Aussie and save your spider gears in case you don't like it.
 
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