oil weights and capacity? (1 Viewer)

[SR.GRINGO]

Can somebody steer me in a direction to find the correct oil weights. I also need to determine if I should just keep running dyno oil or if I should switch to syn. I am a shell distributor here and my cost on 6 bottels of 5-40 was close to $50 for my 4Runner--I know the cruiser holds much more oil. The cruiser is a 94 with 130k and diff locks. Oil has been changed every 3-5k by prior owner.


Front diff
Rear diff
Trans.
Transfer.
Motor

 

[reffug]

I use 0w40 full synthetic in my rig. You might want to do a search on this topic as it has been kicked around rather extensively. just 02

 

[alaskacruiser]

SR. GRINGO- I did an Advanced Search with the following settings:

- Search Titles Only
- Search only the 80's tech forum
- Keyword: Fluids

and here's what I got:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=1755&highlight=fluids

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Thanks--I have been searching since I posted....

SO this sounds good right--temp range here 40(very rare) to 110 average is 85 most of the year. Of these two which would be better for my climate? I read in Australlia they would recomend 20W-50 for my application....

20W-50
15W-40

 

[Rookie2]

You might try a search using username "cary" and keywords "oil", "synthetic", and "mineral". There is a lot of information out there that will help in your decision making.

On my '97', which I'd assume would be similar to yours, manual specs the following:
Front and Rear Diffs.: 80W-90
Tranny: ATF Dexron II or III
T-case: 75W-90


Rookie2

 

[cary]

Shell Rotella 15w-40 changed every 5000-6000 miles will work just fine for your climate.

Cary

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Shell Rotella 15w-40 changed every 5000-6000 miles will work just fine for your climate.

Cary

Cary--Thanks for the reply--I enjoyed reading all of your posts.

 

[acolella]

sump capacity

anyone know the sump capacity of a 95 fzj80?

 

[perk]

Cary/Oil Guru, I too greatly appreciate your research and dissemination on the slippery matters of lubrication.
I am getting ready to switch to synthetics in my 95 FZJ 80 with 89K. I'm in southern California and thought I would try Redline 5w40, per your research, primarily to see if it would stop my oil pan's slow leak. I found that it is not easy to find, and the one place that I did find charges $10.50/qt Just not used to a $70+ oil change.
The shops Redline Rep, when asked about using it to stop leaks said "It will soften the seals, but he recommended getting the leaks fixed"...thanks bud...you got an xtra grand laying around for me??
I also seem to recall Cary "recommending" Rotella T 5w40 for leak stopping abilities, and I'm wondering if it would really be worth it to shell out the extra $$ for the Redline.
Is Rotella T an Ester based and is it Group IV or V?

Perk

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

0W-30 Amsoil heavy duty diesel oil in my rigs.

Amsoil bypass filters too.





TB

 

[RavenTai]

anyone know the sump capacity of a 95 fzj80?

7 to 8 quarts depending on what filter you use and when you check.

 

[ultimauk]

0W-30 Amsoil heavy duty diesel oil in my rigs.

Amsoil bypass filters too.


TB

Can you elaborate on which Amsoil filtering system you decided to use?

Single, dual, or remote?

Model number?

Comments?

 

[RavenTai]

I would stay away from the amsoil dual remote, it uses a restriction on the full flow filter to get oil through the bypass filter, the net effect is reduced oil pressure

search for it on bobistheoilguy.com

 

[cary]

Redline is a Group V Ester oil, and esters tend to swell seals. I don't believe that group III oils do. I recommended the Shell oil for people that didn't want to spend the money for Mobil 1 or had consumption issues with it.

Redline is not worth $10.50 a quart. I can get it for $6.25 quart locally and while I use their tranny and gear oils, I still use Mobil 1 for my engine.

Cary

Cary/Oil Guru, I too greatly appreciate your research and dissemination on the slippery matters of lubrication.
I am getting ready to switch to synthetics in my 95 FZJ 80 with 89K. I'm in southern California and thought I would try Redline 5w40, per your research, primarily to see if it would stop my oil pan's slow leak. I found that it is not easy to find, and the one place that I did find charges $10.50/qt Just not used to a $70+ oil change.
The shops Redline Rep, when asked about using it to stop leaks said "It will soften the seals, but he recommended getting the leaks fixed"...thanks bud...you got an xtra grand laying around for me??
I also seem to recall Cary "recommending" Rotella T 5w40 for leak stopping abilities, and I'm wondering if it would really be worth it to shell out the extra $$ for the Redline.
Is Rotella T an Ester based and is it Group IV or V?

Perk

 

[acolella]

Hi Cary, Need your advice. My 95' FZJ80 has 72k miles and just switched to Amsoil 10W30 and SDF15 filter. My engine sounds like it has a mild knocking/"DIESILING" sound when idleing/driving and at startup. I read your previous threads on this subject regarding filter size and I want your opinon on my situation. Should I change weights and or switch oil brands? thanks in advance.

 

[cary]

I pm'd you back, but I think the filter may be to restrictive. RavenTai, any thoughts?

 

[RavenTai]

I pm'd you back, but I think the filter may be to restrictive. RavenTai, any thoughts?

I never have bought any Amsoil filters, never have heard any complaints on thier full flow filters. Though swapping filters is defiantly worth a shot.

All the 80's I know of have a ticking noise that can be heard under the hood, some of it is the injectors, not sure I would call it a knock, how long has it had this knock? rod knocks do not last long, if it is a rod knock you need to stop driving it until the bottom end is repaired or things will get very expensive. Did this knock just show up when you switched to amsoil 10-30 or was it present before?

What does your oil pressure look like? Especially in high RPM's

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=12356'

After reading that thread I ordered a plunger, spring and washer from Dan, was cheap and was easy to do,

 

[acolella]

Cary brought to my attention that I may be experiencing oil starvation at idle with the Amsoil oil filter, given the size of the unit. It makes perfect sense because right after my oil/filter change, 02/12/05, my engine mildly knocks at start-up and knocks/diesils (slightly) at idle or at low RPM. When I accelerate from a start I hear it too but goes away when the RPM go past 1500 RPM. FYI my previous filter was a Bosch (black unit) which is what previous owner used, and this is my first oil change for this vehicle. I am scheduled for a engine diagnostic and a oem filter change Sat. morning at Toyota; I will post my results. Thanks!!

 

[acolella]

No more knocking sound at start up....

Well like I said, I switched out the Amsoil SDF-15 oil filter and replaced it with the Toyota oil filter YZZ..... and no more knocking at start up. Again, soon as I switched to the Toyota oil filter YZZ..... I have NO knock at startup. The reason is that the SDF-15 is TWICE (double) the size (of the oem Toyota YZZ... filter. Thanks Cary.

 

[cary]

Glad if fixed it, was an educated guess.