Is there anyway to remove the oil pump in a 01 100 series without taking out the engine and just dropppng the diff support and clearing it that way . Has anyone been able to do it this way?
Oil pump removal
- Thread starter Micheal Scott
- Start date
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Are you talking about the oil pump behind the crank pulley, or the oil pick-up tube inside the pan? If its the pump continue reading.
I just rebuilt a 2uz and installed. After install, I had to remove the crank pulley and fix a front main seal leak I had, which is on the front of the oil pump. I was able to do this by removing the top timing covers, loosening the timing belt, removing the tensioner, crank pulley and lower timing cover. That gave me access to the majority of the oil pump. If I had to remove the entire oil pump, then I think it could be done by just removing the rest of the timing covers, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, alternator, and power steering pump. Then pull the oil pump, clean off the fipg off the top of oil pan #1 and front of engine, then install. Don't think you'll need to drop the diff or mess with the water pump or coolant hoses.
Even though I've done the rebuild, I'm still new to deep "on vehicle" engine repairs, so I could be wrong.
I just rebuilt a 2uz and installed. After install, I had to remove the crank pulley and fix a front main seal leak I had, which is on the front of the oil pump. I was able to do this by removing the top timing covers, loosening the timing belt, removing the tensioner, crank pulley and lower timing cover. That gave me access to the majority of the oil pump. If I had to remove the entire oil pump, then I think it could be done by just removing the rest of the timing covers, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, alternator, and power steering pump. Then pull the oil pump, clean off the fipg off the top of oil pan #1 and front of engine, then install. Don't think you'll need to drop the diff or mess with the water pump or coolant hoses.
Even though I've done the rebuild, I'm still new to deep "on vehicle" engine repairs, so I could be wrong.
My truck is a 99, with a rebuilt 03 2uz.
- Thread starter
- #4
I’m talking actually replacing the whole oil pump in RM it’s states removing both oil pans and removing oil pick up strainer to actually remove the oil pump behind the crankshaft seal I don’t want to pull the engine so I’m asking if anyone has removed the oil pump while the engine is still in the car.
Oh thats right. Forgot the oil pick up bolts to the bottom of the pump with two nuts. I'm not sure if you would have the right angle on the pick-up nuts without removing the pans, but you might because there is quite a bit of space once the pump is removed. I would try it first without removing the pans, if you don't have enough access on the pick up nuts, then remove the pans.
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Actually, if the pans have never been removed, then I would probably remove them just to refresh the fipg gaskets. (fipg 103)
- Thread starter
- #7
That’s what I’m thinking Moore80 it will be a decent amount of work after looking at it debating on replacing oil pick up while I’m in there no point not too I just don’t wanna get into it and realize that it won’t work so I’ll do some research.
I have my original engine sitting on a stand at home... I'll look at it when a I get home and see if I can take some pics with the pump off and pans on to see if it's possible to access the pick up tube nuts. I'll send you some pics if I get a chance tonight.
- Thread starter
- #9
I appreciate it man that would help a lot
Didn’t get a chance tonight... been wrestling with the ahc delete. I’ll get to it hopefully tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #11
No hurry man just when ever you get the chance that would awesome good luck with sensor
2001LC
SILVER Star
Why do you want to remove it? 2UZ oil pump failure is not common!
They're a very simple design.
You can not remove without dropping both pans. One guy in mud (bust a bolt) so pulled pans while engine in (or so was my understanding). But it would be tough. Sometimes short cuts take longer.
They're a very simple design.
You can not remove without dropping both pans. One guy in mud (bust a bolt) so pulled pans while engine in (or so was my understanding). But it would be tough. Sometimes short cuts take longer.
- Thread starter
- #13
It’s leaking out from behind the oil pump and not the front crank seal so I have to remove in order to seal it back up looked on ‘tis and says to remove engine don’t want to do that trying to figure out an easier way than taking out diff
2001LC
SILVER Star
You'd sure have more room to work if you pull front drive shafts, diff, #3 cross member. Look around mud to see if you can find they guy that did this without pulling engine. He may have some insight.
- Thread starter
- #15
I know he pretty much had everything out I’m not trying to pull drive shaft since I just replaced them and converted my truck to Part Time I’m gonna look closer and see if I can just take out cross member but we will see
2001LC
SILVER Star
You can just take out #3. These may give you a sense of room you'll have.
- Thread starter
- #17
It’ll be tight but I think I’ll be able to do it preciate the pictures will definitely help me
2001LC
SILVER Star
Getting the pan seal cut, is a bear. Pulling the front diff and drive shafts does open it up nicely. The added room would really be nice here!
Realize this is an old post from about five years ago, but wanted to add for anyone who finds this and has the same issue. Yes - You can get to and replace the oil pump as part of timing belt change. As part of timing belt change, you have to remove the fan the fan shroud, the fan clutch bracket, the water pump, all timing covers, Which leaves plenty of room and access to the oil pump with the engine and the vehicle. Follow the instructions for timing belt replacement along with crankshaft oil seal, combined with the instructions for replacing the oil pump from the FSM.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Following FSM to R&R oil pump. Requires pulling engine, place on engine stand, roll over and remove pans. PITA job.
Just finished one today, required due to cross thread tensioner bolt.
Just finished one today, required due to cross thread tensioner bolt.
