Oil pump cover leak

[Docmallory]

I have a leak up front, and unfortunately, it appears to be the oil pump cover. I'll be letting the dealership handle this one.

Would it make sense to go ahead and remove my ARB bumper before going in for this repair, as it appears they would likely remove it themselves anyway?

(I'd rather do it myself and make sure it gets put back on correctly rather than paying them by the hour to take care of it.)

 

[cruiserman]

Why would they remove the bumper to get to the oil pump cover?

 

[cruiserdan]

Where EXACTLY is the leak.


I have a bit of experience dealing with the front of that motor.....

 

[Docmallory]

Where EXACTLY is the leak.


I have a bit of experience dealing with the front of that motor.....

Hi Dan,

I've read and re-read your experience numerous times inthe past couple of days.

I cleaned it up, then ran it, and the oil appears to be coming from the driver's side of the crank pulley (not the crank seal itself, but about 2-3 inches from the crankshaft, right there where the oil pump cover is). Definitley higher than the #1 pan arch. It started out as a minor leak about 2K miles ago, but in the past week it has gotten where it will leave a small puddle on the garage floor (not just drips).

The crank pulley had a very thin film of oil on the back (but then so did most things in that area), and there is some VERY minor spray of oil to the side where it comes off the pulley - barely noticeable. With the large amount of oil coming out, I would expect much more than this if it were the crank seal. (Right?)

I'll try to get pictures today, but I have about 10 other crises going on right now to deal with too.

 

[Docmallory]

Why would they remove the bumper to get to the oil pump cover?

Because fixing this will likely involve removing the radiator, and working intensely on lower front of the engine. If it is the oil pump cover, I'd prefer they remove it without having to take off the timing cover (and therefore the #1 and #2 oil pans, lifting the engine off its mounts, blah blah blah). What I've read here makes it sound like that would be very difficult. Giving the mechanic as much access to that area seems like a good idea.

 

[cruiserdan]

If it is indeed the oil pump cover the trick is going to be getting the phillips-head countersunk screws out of the oil pump cover with the cover "in-frame" I believe Kurt was sucessful doing this. Sometimes the only way to loosen them is with a hand impact driver and getting one of thoes in there could be fun. You will also need to remove the crank pulley and the alternator belt idler. I did not remove my radiator but as you observed, I had the timing cover out on the bench. I suggest you obtain a set of screws along with the cover o-ring, and crank seal. You may also want a new alternator belt idler and drive belts if those items are not newer since all that stuff has to come out anyway to do the job.


D-

 

[cruiserman]

If it's a dealer, I doubt they will pull the rad. They will probably pull the timing cover, and attempt to get the screws out of the oil pump cover while it's on the bench. I wish them luck.

 

[Docmallory]

If it's a dealer, I doubt they will pull the rad. They will probably pull the timing cover, and attempt to get the screws out of the oil pump cover while it's on the bench. I wish them luck.

In that case, I'll probably end up with new seals on the oil pans, crankshaft (front), and oil pump cover. Heck, the only thing leaking after that will be my bank account.

If they do take the timing chain cover off, anything else besides what Dan mentioned above that should be replaced while it's apart?

 

[landtoy80]

I removed the oil pump cover without removing the timing chain cover.
I had to use the Dremal to cut into the screws so I could get a slotted screwdriver on the screw.
I replaced some of the screws with bolts.
You do have to remove the crank pulley.
The biggest part of the fix is torquing the pulley bolt to 304ft/bls.
AND putting cardboard on the radiator so when you pull the pulley off you dont damage the radiator.

I have removed the pulley, twice.
The first time it was to replace the front main seal.
Second was to replace the oil pump seal.
If you remove the pulley, replace the oil pump seal as it WILL. Murphys Law.

 

[Docmallory]

update - pictures

OKay, here's some photos.

Top photo shows the crank pulley and surrounding area. Areas outlined in red are wet with oil.

Second photo shows another view of same area - dotted areas are wet.

The crankshaft (behind the pulley) is wet - but it was wet before and I can't get a rag behind the pulley to dry it - so don't know if this is new oil.

The area of the timing chain cover to the right (passenger side) of the crank is relatively dry. However, the pumpkin and passenger side of the axle are spotted with oil. Which way does the crank pulley spin?

The front area of the oil pump cover that is not covered by the crank pulley is dry, but as you can see the area below the pulley is wet. Is this leaking from above, or perhaps being flung up there from the pulley?

 

[landtoy80]

Thats what mine looked like when my front seal leaked.
I had an oil leak at the arch on the pan where you see the oil on yours.
I went from dino oil to RotellaT syn and that leak stopped.