Oil Pans!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

chicago

chicago

Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Threads
434
Messages
9,610
Location
Reno, Nevada
Hey all,
I have a PM to C dan, but I was wondering if there was anywhere else I can get an oil pan from...Like everything else with this rig, parts are a BITCH to find.:crybaby:
Im really wondering if this rig is worth the hassle.:mad:
Chicago
 
Do you mind if I ask why you need a new pan. The 2F pan is practicaly bullet proof in my experience.

Dynosoar
 
Well, there was a big GLOB of rust on the drivers side of the pan I didnt think much of. I wanted to take the pan off to replace the gasket, so I figured as long as i had the pan off, Id hit it with a wire wheel and clean her up a bit. Got it all back together, took it for a test run, pulled back in the garage and it was leaking out of 2 small holes that were rusted through:eek:
I looked on cruiser parts and Ill e mail them today. I think theyd be cheapest.
BTW, would a 2F pan work with a 3F engine...I got a PM from someone who has a 2F pan and would sell it.

Thanks,

Chicago
 
chicago...
between cruiserparts, and the dealer, i have never had problems getting parts for my 84. in fact, i waited 3 weeks for wiper arm for my wifes Xterra, where i was able to get the same thing for my 84 from local warehouse.
 
This is a very common problem. The FJ62 that I used to own is now on it's 3rd oil pan. The usually rust thru between the pan and that little skidplate thingy that is spotwelded to the bottom of the pan.

When I had to replace the pan, I looked at 2 used pans and they were both about to rust thru as well. Just get a new one from the dealer, or C-Dan. The factory paint job is very weak, put a couple of good coats of Rustoleum satin black on it before installing.
 
Yeah, Im going to go with a new one, if nothing else, because it will look pretty:princess: .
I just got a PM back from C dan and my dumb ass forgot to tell him the vehicle type...OOPS!
I checked with MAF, and they get theirs from the dealer...I actually didnt know that they had em. I was checking on another order, and asked, and he said they DO have oil pans, but theyre not listed on the site.
The rust holes in mine were on the SIDE of the oil pan and no where near the guard. WEIRD hu?

Chicago
 
I've read some where on this forum that a common rust point is between the bash plate on the oil pan and the oil pan itself. When you get a new OP, you might want to either run a solid bead of silicon or a weld between the two. Just something to think about.

Search the threads!

Good Luck!
 
Oh s@*&, just read the rust is on the side of the pan! Rust on the side? I wonder if the PO had the wagon sittig in a field for a long while or the OEM just didn't get enough paint on it?
 
I had to buy a new pan when I rebuilt my engine. Here is a tip, don't rest ANY of the weight of the engine on the pan. Those little welds on the skidplate crack.

Anyway a NEW one with the TLCA discount at the local Yota dealer was 150 bucks or so. Enough to sting. Not enough to cry...

-Jack
 
Hey Norcal...Thats a good idea sealing the skid...The rig actually came from New Jersy (according to the sticker on the windshield)...So I think that has a LOT to do with the rust on the pan. Theres a great deal of rusty s*** on there, but in unusual places. The frame itself has surface rust, but isnt too bad...Some of the steel lines...A MESS! Drivers side panels...small surface rust...Pass sider rear door and quarter...TETINUS SHOT REQUIRED.When I do either a conversion or a rebuild, Im going to go through EVERYTHING and clean s*** up.
C dan got back to me...135.00 for the pan...16.00 for the gasket ONE PIECE!!!!!!
Cheaper than toyota and MAF! I NEED IT....ILL TAKE IT!!!!
THANK YOU C DAN!!!!:bounce2: :beer:

Chicago
 
One question...When installing the gasket...do you guyz put the gasket onto the block with the sealant, or onto the pan? The book sayz to put it to the block, which makes sense, But I had a hell of a time trying to do that the first time around with a FOUR PIECE POS GASKET!

Thanks,

Chicago
 
Yeah, I did the silicone thing on my shiney new pan after I painted it, forgot to mention that tip.

I put the FIPG on the block and the pan, but only at the sharp bend points where it says to in the book. Then I laid the gasket on the pan, lifted it all up as one unit.

Something that I did that helped getting this lined up was I put some M8 studs on the block temorarily, in the pan bolt holes. Made things line up and "pop" onto the bottom of the block much cleaner, no wiggling around. After I put the rest of the bolts in, I took the studs out.
 
stupid question?

Why can't you get a buddy with a welder or a commercial welder to put a patch over the rusted out spot. As the man says " It's only metal, we can out think it"
 
I dont see why you couldnt patch it some way,in fact, my dad actually recommended this approach...For me, Id rater spend a little extra and have piece of mind that it WONT have problems with a new one, and all I have to worrie about is my gasket replacement. That way, Ive done everything I could and if it is leaking...Its my own inept install.
My dad told me to FIBERGLASS it...:eek: :D . AHHH NOPE!

Chicago
 
KLF said:
Something that I did that helped getting this lined up was I put some M8 studs on the block temorarily, in the pan bolt holes. Made things line up and "pop" onto the bottom of the block much cleaner, no wiggling around. After I put the rest of the bolts in, I took the studs out.
Click to expand...


That's a damn good idea!:cheers:

My pan drips from the drain plug. I may replace with a new pan but that's somewhere towards the bottom of my TTD list.
 
Hey KLF,
How many studs did you use?

Chicago
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom