Oil pan removal

[LongPlay]

Hi,
Found some scaly metal in oil change when I started on this 1970 F motor resurrection. So I'm dropping the oil pan. Or trying to, really. I've removed 11 bolts on each long axis of the pan and it is still stuck like it is welded on. Am I missing something? Are there hidden bolts on other, short sides of the pan?
I don't want to pry the pan into a pancake removing it but having no luck so far.
Anyone have any good tips? TY in advance.

 

[76FJ40]

Use a scissor jack on the side on the pan.

 

[charliemeyer007]

So how many holes in the new gasket? Some people really glue them on. Got a heat gun to try and soften the bond. A thin sharp knife (old flay) worked in from the corners, then wiggled/twisted/slid towards the center. Maybe spray some penetrating oil along the seam and in the bolt holes 2 twice a day for a while.

Oh and I whack the pan with a 3# lead hammer at the armor plate/pan junction.
When you go to put it back on, make sure both pan and block mating surfaces are "CLEAN" Also make sure the pan is flat and straight. Pay attention to the area around the bolt holes - often pooched in by gorillas with wrenches. Block of wood and a small hammer, check with a straight edge. I use Aviation Permatex it never dries hard. Use a torque wrench in the pattern @ 1/3 the setting, then 2/3 and finally the full inch pounds.

 

[1911]

Use a scissor jack on the side on the pan.

Use a 2x4 laid lengthwise on the side of the pan to push on with the jack.

 

[DeskJock]

So how many holes in the new gasket? Some people really glue them on. Got a heat gun to try and soften the bond. A thin sharp knife (old flay) worked in from the corners, then wiggled/twisted/slid towards the center. Maybe spray some penetrating oil along the seam and in the bolt holes 2 twice a day for a while.

Oh and I whack the pan with a 3# lead hammer at the armor plate/pan junction.
When you go to put it back on, make sure both pan and block mating surfaces are "CLEAN" Also make sure the pan is flat and straight. Pay attention to the area around the bolt holes - often pooched in by gorillas with wrenches. Block of wood and a small hammer, check with a straight edge. I use Aviation Permatex it never dries hard. Use a torque wrench in the pattern @ 1/3 the setting, then 2/3 and finally the full inch pounds.

You rock Charlie.

 

[LongPlay]

So how many holes in the new gasket? Some people really glue them on. Got a heat gun to try and soften the bond. A thin sharp knife (old flay) worked in from the corners, then wiggled/twisted/slid towards the center. Maybe spray some penetrating oil along the seam and in the bolt holes 2 twice a day for a while.

Oh and I whack the pan with a 3# lead hammer at the armor plate/pan junction.
When you go to put it back on, make sure both pan and block mating surfaces are "CLEAN" Also make sure the pan is flat and straight. Pay attention to the area around the bolt holes - often pooched in by gorillas with wrenches. Block of wood and a small hammer, check with a straight edge. I use Aviation Permatex it never dries hard. Use a torque wrench in the pattern @ 1/3 the setting, then 2/3 and finally the full inch pounds.

Good thought. I do think the armor point most likely can take the persuasion w/o warping too much. Never used the Aviation Permatex but I look some up. Thanks!

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I just used a striking putty knife, easing between cork gasket and engine block, then working length-wise. My write up on reinstalling the pan is in my sig.

 

[LongPlay]

Good thought. I do think the armor point most likely can take the persuasion w/o warping too much. Never used the Aviation Permatex but I look some up. Thanks!

Got the pan off! Minimal rust/scale in oil.
Cleaning pan in prep for media blasting.