oil pan gasket

[augirthedude]

Is it common for the oil pan gasket to leak at the rear of the pan on the rear main bearing cap????? thought I was going after a rear main seal .... so I got all the clutch parts (Disc ,Pressure plate ,flywheel, t/o bearing ,pilot bearing and rear main seal) to do the clutch while I was into the bell housing .... discovered that the rear main seal was not leaking but the pan gasket at the rear main bearing cap. any hints to do a lasting install that won't leak? but the clutch was needed as the clutch parts were well worn and ready to start slipping.

 

[RockDoc]

Very common.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Very common.

Not common, UNIVERSAL. Welcome to Land Cruisers.

 

[PhilC64]

Thats now on my to-do list! Along with the oil galley plug, the valve cover gasket, the birf's, the gutters. Hey wait, this Cruiser thing is getting out of control! I should've stuck with my F150!

Nah, this cruiser is a lot more fun!

 

[Heartworm]

I have replaced oil pan gaskets on 2 FJ60s in the recent weeks, but that does not make me an expert, so take what I offer at face value. The first gasket I got from Cruiser Outfitters and the second one from Cruiser Dan (OEM Toyota). Both were the one piece cork jobs and looked almost alike. The Cruiser Outfitters one actually was easier to work with. It appears the problem area is where the corners are and my observation was that the corner oil pan is a 90 degree angle but the gasket is radiused. When you start putting them together, you will see what I am saying. My solution was to take a single edged razor and cut the cork to a 90 degree angle. I also had to do some trimming to the "top" of the corner joint on the OEM gasket. I glued the gasket to the oil pan with High Tack cement (NAPA) and used carraige bolts to hold it in place at every bolt hole while it dried. I used clothes pins on the curved part and let it set for several hours. Get yourself 2 threaded studs with appropriate sized nuts to help you get the pan in place. I put one stud on each side about 1/2 way along the engine block. I used high temp silicone only on the curved front and back ends and around the corners. Perhaps you have already removed your oil pan but if you have not, expect a fight. That is the big reason that I did not glue it on to the engine block everywhere. THere are several posts about using a bottle jack and pushing laterally which works, just don't get in a big hurry and bend the pan. The quickest way to clean the pan is to take it to the car wash. Good luck/

 

[augirthedude]

thanks for he advice although this is not my first oil pan gasket replacement ,, it is my first attempt on a land cruiser . just wanted some advice on the front and rear radius areas on the bearing caps . thanks

 

[83FJ604ME]

Hey, just did mine this passed weekend. It sucked! I don't think the thing had ever been changed and it took XX hours to remove it, clean it and replace it. Don't be surprised if it takes long than you anticipated. To the PO who jacked up the drain plug . Good luck!

 

[Heartworm]

Sorry to be anal. Did I mention that paint stripper will melt the old gasket adhesive?

 

[ARSmay]

This is also on my to do list. NOT looking forward to it.

 

[CruisinMT]

I'm going to replace the gasket on a 3f is it the same process? Do i need to put the front up on jack stand to get the pan off?

 

[Trapper50cal]

I also did this last weekend, pan DID NOT want to come off. Once I did get it off though, I razor bladed the block (and front and back) took the pan and lightly ground the gasket surface to bare metal, used a thin layer of Copper RTV and zipped tied the gasket down to the pan, I then let it set up for an hour. Then I removed all the zip ties but the corners and put a VERY thin layer of less strong silicone on the block side of the gasket and mounted the pan ( i got all new bolts and lock washers ) I hand torqued all bolts starting from the middle and working out, then cut the remaining corner zip ties and pulled them out then retourqued everything again.

It still leaks in the back, but I'm sticking with rear mainseal as the culprit

 

[mwalls54]

I thought my rear main was leaking also. but was my oil pain, i would replace the rear main since you have access to it.

When i replaced mine I used stock gasket and a tube and half of FIPG toyota liquid gasket maker and it hasn't leaked yet.

 

[cruiser88]

NEVER USE THE 4 PIECE GASKET SET. Oem is the only way to roll. Yes you bet use permatex or Indian head gasket sealer

 

[TexasAgFJ60]

Ahhh, brings back memories of last wednesday for me. First off, take the pan and use a 3M pad on the die grinder and strip ALL the paint off the oil pan. Spray the pan and bottom of block with electrical cleaner (quicker drying than brake cleaner) I used the OEM gasket, placed the black OEM RTV on the oil pan and let it get tacky. Place gasket on pan and set in place. The OEM gasket is SUPER thick, I cut a small piece of fuel line to place in my socket to allow the bolt head to not sink in the socket too much and allow good pressure to thread the pan on. Then torque the bolts down. The spec says 50-100 INCH pounds, about 52 INCH-LBS was all it took, didn't want to tweak the pan any. I tell you I keep checking it every time I walk by. I am going to cringe if I see any more Texas Crude trying to escape!

 

[Trapper50cal]

1 week retourque tomorrow. and another valve adjustment. Inspection cover looks good as does Intake/Exhaust and valve cover. Back of the pan doesn't look wet but fresh oil is on the bottom of the flywheel inspection cover.

 

[TexasAgFJ60]

Ugh that darn weep hole! I watch it like a hawk, hoping I never see a drop of oil dangling from the inner lip.