Oil Leaking From Bolts?

[J.A.P]

This may seem dumb and I can't find any place that's it's been talked about here. Oil seems to be leaking out of the bolts connecting the engine to the trans. Is this a rear main leak? I've tried to see if I'm wrong and watch the oil accumulate but that's where it seems to be coming from. Any ideas? I have never seen a rear main leak so I don't know what to look for. I called the dealer and they want to charge between $40-80 for a diagnosis, I don't want them to tell me it's the rear main if it's not (for trhe $1300 fix). As I just stated the fix for that at the dealer is $1300 can it be done for cheaper if that is the problem? Sorry for so many questions lately but I guess thats what we're here for, maybe one day I'll even get to answer some.

 

[IdahoDoug]

What vehicle? What model? What year? What engine? What country?

DougM

 

[J.A.P]

Sorry about that '92 L/C 3f-e U.S.A . Also, I did read in a previous thread about an inspection plate for the rear main. Is this the stainless looking 2x4 plate sitting parallel to the ground on the back of the engine/front of the trans? If so how do you go about inspecting it?

 

[atijerino]

Noticed a similar leak on my truck, the metal looks more like aluminium and there are two visible bolts and they seem to get soak over time, it is not a very copious leak. Eventually one of two drops will accumulate over the anti-sway bar that is right below the area you mentioned. You are right it looks like the oild is coming from the bolts. Since it does not look like a mjor leak, I don't see a puddle in my garage I will leave alone.

Thanks,

________________________
Antonio
1994 FZJ80

 

[semlin]

if you have oil there you have a main seal leak (or maybe an oil pan arch leak although not sure of layout on a 3FE). That will be $80

Some weeping there is common if not standard on both the 3FE and the 1FZ motors. You may be able to reduce or even stop it by switching to a heavier grade oil (15w40). Even better, go to a diesel motor oil like shell rotella or go to mobil 1 synthetic 0w40. Going synthetic may increase the leak for a while but should then reduce it. That will be another $80

It won't cost anywhere remotely near to $1300 to fix it I think but even if changing oil grade does not stop it, I would not worry about it until it starts to leave a patch on your driveway, then I'd stick some cardboard under there, then maybe after a while I'd fix it.

 

[J.A.P]

It's already leaving a spot on the drive. I took the plate off today and I think thats where the leak is coming from. I don't want a huge expense but I think thats where I'm heading. Are those stop leak oil additives a big no no? Should I just get it fixed all good and proper like? Anybody want a '92 l/c in good condition and if you have an ashphalt you probably wont even notice the drip.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I wouldn't sweat a few drops on the ground, personally. Try the different grades or one of the extended high mile engine oils that have some mild seal sweller in it. Check with Cary before doing this as he'll likely have a preference or suggestion worth considering. Also, be advised some have had a rear main diagnosed when it was simply grease thrown up by the drive shaft splines located directly in line. Mine's been wet since I bought it new 12 years ago and it's just the grease thinning and running down there after being thrown.

DougM

 

[J.A.P]

Thanks for the replies so for. Like I said I removed the plate and oil was coming from the inside. Is this a head gasket problem? Is there anything else in there that could be the problem? I've read about the oil pan arch leaking but would that get behind the engine into the flywheeel housing? I don't want to let it go, it's leaving fairly lage spots in the drive. I don't mean to be a pest but before I spend all that money I want to be sure that's what it is. Thanks again.

 

[semlin]

I suggest you go get your oil changed to a heavier grade and see if it helps. Worked for me. If you really want to spend money, take it to an engine shop and get an estimate.

this has nothing to do with your head gasket.

 

[J.A.P]

"You use that hole to remove bolts to drop the trany, I did that twice to replace the rear main seal,to find out I could of just removed the pan. The rear main wasn't leaking, it was the retainer to pan seal. I had fun anyway. "

I found this post on the old SOR board. Can some one tell what the retainer to the pan seal is and if this could be a problem on a 3F-E. If this were my problem would it be leaking from the afore mentioned location? Thanks again.

 

[Rookie2]

As far as I know the 3FE and 1FZ are similar in this regard.

Take a small mirror and stick it in the tranny/engine port hole and push it against the flywheel to hold it in place. Then shine a flashlight onto the mirror and you will be able to see the whole rear main seal/retainer arch area (about 4 to 6" directly above the port hole). The rear main seal sits in the retainer arch, which is bolted to the back of the block. The circular retainer arch mates with the upper oil pan along the bottom. Your leak is either at this interface, or the rear main seal itself.

I found it difficult to definitively determine which area was leaking. The predominent opinion is that most times it's the pan arch that is leaking. Either one is a big job. If you have the dealer do it, I would probably let them replace the rear main seal (as they have suggested), and while they're in there, suggest they remove the retainer arch and reseal it at no additional charge, explaining to them that if they're wrong and it isn't the seal, they will be going back in there to fix it on their dime.


Rookie2

 

[J.A.P]

Well I think I'm going to let my local mechanic fix the leak. He quoted me a price of $648 for the rear main and just over $200 for the oil pan. That seems fair to me. He had the truck yesterday and is fairly certain it's the rear main. It's leaking about a quart a week right now. He added a dye the oil and thinks he'll be able to tell for sure what it is when he looks at it tomorrow. I've never heard of adding a dye to the oil I hope that doesn't damage anything.

 

[Rookie2]

Well I think I'm going to let my local mechanic fix the leak. He quoted me a price of $648 for the rear main and just over $200 for the oil pan. That seems fair to me. He had the truck yesterday and is fairly certain it's the rear main. It's leaking about a quart a week right now. He added a dye the oil and thinks he'll be able to tell for sure what it is when he looks at it tomorrow. I've never heard of adding a dye to the oil I hope that doesn't damage anything.

Wow..., if he's quoting $200 bucks to remove and reseal the upper oil pan, I doubt he's ever done it before on an 80.

 

[robbie]

3 fe oil pans are easier to do, but you still have to un bolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up a little. Only about 3 hrs to do if you are fast. Tranny is in line also it takes about 7 hr give or take to do a tranny R@R. later robbie

 

[tusk74]

I had the same type of leak, but not a quart a week. Wet bolts and a drip from the stabilizer on my 3FE. After doing numerous searches here I retorqued the oil pan bolts (some were very loose), replaced the valve cover gasket which was dry and cracked, and switched to Valvoline 10-40 High Mileage every 3k. No drops on the driveway, but the bolts and stabilizer still have a lingering drop of oil. It seems like a common sense thing, but get a flashlight and check around the valve cover....I had pools of oil in the low spots that would eventually drip down the side of the engine. Maybe yours does have a bad rear main, but it seems like a lot of mechanics jump the gun when they see oil on the rear of the engine.
Good luck

 

[J.A.P]

Are there any oter seals I should replace while the engine and trans are seperated for the rear main job.