Oil consumption, 1 quart every 1,000 miles

[fjdavid]

Hello Fellow Mudders,

I have a 2008 LC200 with 158K miles. I have noticed that my cruiser has been consuming about 1 quart (946ml) every 1000 miles. This started to occur after I replaced water pump, drive belts and thermostat at 143K. My dealer says that according to Toyota, it is "normal" for it to consumer 1 quart every 1000 miles. I do not see any leaks on the ground and the dealer says there are not visible leaks under the hood.

Since I have purchased the cruiser at 129K miles, I've been replacing the oil every 10K with Toyota 0-20w synthetic. I drive mostly local with many stop lights, wouldn't call myself a "lead foot" but I average around 12.5-13.5 mpg when I drive primarily local.

Any thoughts? I looked into the Cam Tower leak but was not able to locate any leaks on my engine.

Thank you!
David

 

[SWUtah]

I’ve never heard of one using oil before

 

[ryanCA]

If it was a M3 or Panamera, this would be normal. For a LC, this isn't normal.

 

[luke27617]

Definitely not normal. If there is no leak, my guess would be worn piston rings

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Since I have purchased the cruiser at 129K miles, I've been replacing the oil every 10K with Toyota 0-20w synthetic.

Well what you have serviced doesn’t touch oil, so that can’t be it.

What oil did the motor have in it for the first 129k miles?

I ask because if it ran on Toyota 5w-20 (a conventional oil) but ran for long 10k mile oil changes, then I’m sure you have worn out valve guides.

Conventional/synthetic doesn’t really matter when it comes to engine life, as long as oil is changed when it is due. I’ve been noticing this a lot with other 5.7s.

Toyota 0w-20 is pretty thin of a 20w (not the right technical term) and it is up there with other oil with higher amounts of detergents, which is good. Unless your engine had sludge in it from the PO, which created a false seal, and now the TGMO 0w-20 is cleaning sludge away, and getting past the seals when under pressure (like accelerating when in stop and go driving).

Clean out your exhaust tip with some brake cleaner. Then after a trip, check to see how dirty it is. Use a clean paper towel and whip it. Little dry black stuff, good to go. Heavy dry black soot, valve train seals are on their way out. Kinda wet black soot, motor is dumping some serious oil past seals and possible rings.

I’m not a fan, but they work, switch to a high mileage oil with has a tad more seal conditioners. Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage, Mobile 1 High Mileage, they are all good. And with API SN Plus, all oils are good now a days and have to stay within specifications, so don’t worry about high mileage oils over swelling seals. Obviously your seals are already bad, not like you’re hurting anything.

Check back in when you test the exhaust.

 

[chilibit]

There is data missing to explain the change. I would look at cylinder leak down numbers next. If you are confident it was not consuming oil from 129 to 143 then I am puzzled. How are you judging how much is being used? Some filters allow drain back, most don't. Same filter model for all samples?

 

[Ali FJ80]

Check the PCV valve also. If PCV system is clogged up it can cause oil usage.

 

[KLF]

Check the PCV valve also. If PCV system is clogged up it can cause oil usage.

Came here to post the same thing. Cheap $10 part, very easy to replace.

 

[ChowChilla]

I would change the oil every 5k, I do on mine!!

 

[fjdavid]

Well what you have serviced doesn’t touch oil, so that can’t be it.

What oil did the motor have in it for the first 129k miles?

I ask because if it ran on Toyota 5w-20 (a conventional oil) but ran for long 10k mile oil changes, then I’m sure you have worn out valve guides.

Conventional/synthetic doesn’t really matter when it comes to engine life, as long as oil is changed when it is due. I’ve been noticing this a lot with other 5.7s.

Toyota 0w-20 is pretty thin of a 20w (not the right technical term) and it is up there with other oil with higher amounts of detergents, which is good. Unless your engine had sludge in it from the PO, which created a false seal, and now the TGMO 0w-20 is cleaning sludge away, and getting past the seals when under pressure (like accelerating when in stop and go driving).

Clean out your exhaust tip with some brake cleaner. Then after a trip, check to see how dirty it is. Use a clean paper towel and whip it. Little dry black stuff, good to go. Heavy dry black soot, valve train seals are on their way out. Kinda wet black soot, motor is dumping some serious oil past seals and possible rings.

I’m not a fan, but they work, switch to a high mileage oil with has a tad more seal conditioners. Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage, Mobile 1 High Mileage, they are all good. And with API SN Plus, all oils are good now a days and have to stay within specifications, so don’t worry about high mileage oils over swelling seals. Obviously your seals are already bad, not like you’re hurting anything.

Check back in when you test the exhaust.

Just tried the exhaust test and the results were little dry black sediments.

I'm not sure which oil the PO used but I used 0-20w synthetic ever since I bought the rig at 129K.

What I have noticed is after an oil change, I rate of oil consumption is not as fast. After an oil change, the first 1500 miles is fine. After that I lose about one quart every 1k miles. I have been tracking it at 1k or 1 month intervals through normal driving.

 

[fjdavid]

There is data missing to explain the change. I would look at cylinder leak down numbers next. If you are confident it was not consuming oil from 129 to 143 then I am puzzled. How are you judging how much is being used? Some filters allow drain back, most don't. Same filter model for all samples?

I'm using the filters model for every oil change, I use the oem toyota filter. From 129 to 143 there were no oil consumption, I've kept a meticulous cruiser service log since I've purchased the vehicle. Habit of when I had my FJ Cruiser and '75 FST .

 

[fjdavid]

Check the PCV valve also. If PCV system is clogged up it can cause oil usage.

Thank you! I will try that today or the weekend! I've looked on youtube and mud, saw some write ups for 100 and 80 series. Can anyone share a page or video or where the pcv is located on a 3UR-FE ?

David

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Just tried the exhaust test and the results were little dry black sediments.

I'm not sure which oil the PO used but I used 0-20w synthetic ever since I bought the rig at 129K.

What I have noticed is after an oil change, I rate of oil consumption is not as fast. After an oil change, the first 1500 miles is fine. After that I lose about one quart every 1k miles. I have been tracking it at 1k or 1 month intervals through normal driving.

A little dry soot is fine. Paper towel should still look pretty clean with a little black on it after a thousand miles.

The TGMO is not the problem...

How long after engine shut down are you checking the oil level? I’ll tell you that if I check mine after 5 minutes like Toyota says, I’m a 1/4 quart low. Check it in the morning, I’m exactly at the high mark, no burning.

Have you topped off oil level at all?

 

[SWUtah]

It’s the PCV

 

[Ali FJ80]

Thank you! I will try that today or the weekend! I've looked on youtube and mud, saw some write ups for 100 and 80 series. Can anyone share a page or video or where the pcv is located on a 3UR-FE ?

David

its under the intake manifold but if you remove the tube that connects to it and use a deep socket you should be able to get it.

 

[Ali FJ80]

here is the valve itself circled.

 

[fjdavid]

A little dry soot is fine. Paper towel should still look pretty clean with a little black on it after a thousand miles.

The TGMO is not the problem...

How long after engine shut down are you checking the oil level? I’ll tell you that if I check mine after 5 minutes like Toyota says, I’m a 1/4 quart low. Check it in the morning, I’m exactly at the high mark, no burning.

Have you topped off oil level at all?

When I perform an oil check, I park in the garage (flat surface) and wait about an hour before I check the oil level. I've only topped off when the dipstick indicates low.

 

[fjdavid]

here is the valve itself circled.

View attachment 1859238

Will go pick up the part from the dealer soon and replace the pcv. Thanks!

 

[KLF]

This is the hose that goes down to the PCV:

And here it is with the hose removed (the black thing):

It's really easy to change, the hardest part is pushing that chunk of stiff foam out of the way. Takes a 22mm deep socket, an O2 sensor socket works well if you have one. There is an O-ring that you schmear some grease on, not very tight when re-installing, the valve is plastic.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

To add to @KLF PCV comments. Once the old one is out, shake it. If you hear a rattle, it was fine, but hey are so cheap pop the new on in. But this will let you know if you found the issue, or it’s somehting else.