I dont either. I am curious what Does kill these trucks thru wear. What wears out first? IPs, rear diff, transfer case, rear main seal, valve train, ...?
Oil change questions HDJ81
- Thread starter shmukster
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Well non of those is going to kill it.
All of that is rebuildable.
When I say die I mean catastrophic failure.
Main bearings being wiped out.
There are diesel land cruisers running around with 600k km's.
that too is what l'm curious about, and how to prevent it. Proper PM and regular or ocassional oil testing, l reckon.
Any recommended tests beyond Blackstone's standard $35 test? Ash, soot, sulfer, TAN, TBN,..?
Why do you change your oil every 6 months? Do you run different for summer/winter? Oil doesn't go off. It doesn't need changed unless contaminated or broken down.
1HD-T's die from ring wear or big end bearing failure. The big end bearing failure is due to cavitation in the journals and requires the shells to be changed periodically.
It is not due to Toyota using the wrong material. That was BS to pretend they had it under control. I even found the research paper into cavitation in a 6 cylinder diesel which included a Toyota Engineer.
A mates 1HD-T had already been rebuilt before the 200,000km mark. I never did ask him why though. The FT's outlast the T's and have longer OCI too.
Thanks for the info, Dougal! Anything preventative to be done about ring wear?
I wish l had an FT.
Quality air filters.
OEM or can someone use K&N?
OEM or any reputable filter manufacturer (MAN-Hummel, Donaldson, Denso, etc etc).
Not K$N or anything that claims to be higher flowing or performance enhancing. Because they compromise filtration to do that.
Ultimately these are metal on metal. Regardless of what you do they'll wear. And ft is not going to last any longer than a t or fte.
I live in a very damp climate and am concerned with moisture in the crank case.
My oil changes are a practice of preventive maintenance. The cost of 8 oil changes a year in my 4 toys is pretty minimal.
6 fl1-a filters is about 30 bucks
24 quarts of 5w-30 Pennzoil ultra is $150
12 quarts of basic 10w30 dino oil is $60
1 oil filter for the diesel is $35
20 quarts of delvac 1300 is $60
So we are talking $335 in oil changes a year on 4 vehicles. These 4 rigs see probably a total of 10000 miles combines a year.
Considering I only pay registration fees on 1 of them and I pay collector insurance on all 4 which is very cheap, I don't sweat a little extra maintenance.
Some of them sit for months without being driven. The land cruiser usually sits 2-3 weeks at a time. I have an older accord that I drove back and forth to work.
If 6 cyl diesel cavitation is the soul issue why don't otr diesels or cummins experience this issue? Or the ft or any other older diesel?
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Moisture in the crankcase comes from short and cold running. That's it. If you were water logging your oil you'd see it go white and it would be picked up by your oil analysis. But you're not.
The cavitation was a unique problem suffered by the 1HD-T. They fixed it for the FT/FTE versions. It's the only engine I know of that suffered such an issue.
Have a read. Two of the authors were at Toyota.
I'm aware of what causes moisture. Non of my toys go on long drives. Look, I've been doing this for 15+ years over the course of 30-40 cars. I've owned as many as 9 at a time. It's just a good reliable habit to change my oil more frequently.
Do I tell people it's necessary?
Is it your money?
Is it harming anything on my vehicles?
Then why do you care so much?
For people that dd a rig I always recommend oil analysis and follow they're recommended intervals.
My daily driven accord is on 7500 mile oil changes as 42 of it's 48 daily miles are spent on the freeway at 70mph
Links to discussions on possible BEB issue causes in this thread.
I've not updated this thread in a while and will make a plan to at some point this year.
Cheers
gb
I've not updated this thread in a while and will make a plan to at some point this year.
Cheers
gb
I'm providing the needed sanity check for advice posted on the internet. It's needlessly wasting oil and your time for no gain. Changing your oil more often than needed doesn't prevent or solve any problems. It's not a good thing in any way.
You could probably extend intervals on your Honda too. That hot highway running is close to ideal conditions.
Usually factory intervals are for those not doing oil analysis. Those doing oil analysis have the information to set their own schedule based on oil contamination and breakdown.
If you're not getting oil contamination or breakdown then keep running it.
I wasn't offering advice on intervals for oil change.
I'm aware it's not solving or preventing anything. It's also not causing any issues. It gives me a reason to crawl under my toys and inspect them too.
The 7500 was the recommendation from black stone.
20w50 is a great choice and not just for hot weather either. Toyota state in the owners and also engine manual it's good down to -12 degrees C. 15w40 would be a good choice for most of the planet and up until manufacturers had to meet stricter fuel economy requirements it was actually the most sold viscosity in the world for diesel engine's.
Letting fuel economy dictate which oil viscosity to use is not something I'd ever be doing. I'll let the engine bearing clearances and temperature dictate that.
Letting fuel economy dictate which oil viscosity to use is not something I'd ever be doing. I'll let the engine bearing clearances and temperature dictate that.
