How does the air get out of the otherwise sealed tank? How would you vent it? I LIKE this idea; just needs a few details worked out...semlin said:
Nick
Offroad trailers: your thoughts and why
- Thread starter BMAN
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nick
Exiled,
Man nice looking trailer. Can you post up some more pictures? Side views, top etc. I still need some ideas for my 101.
Gman
Man nice looking trailer. Can you post up some more pictures? Side views, top etc. I still need some ideas for my 101.
Gman
Exiled said:
In the photo below, note that the stainless fill pipe wraps the right rear side of the trailer. It is connected to the top rear of the tank with a piece of Marine water hose - reinforced plastic, about 1" ID.
The vents are 1/8" ID elbows - set in the side of the tank at the top edge - with silicone tubing that runs up the inside of the box in the fender well, and loops 180 degrees to point downward.
Pump is attached to a 3/8" outlet at the front of the tank, under the skid plate, and there is a gravity outlet at the rear - under the bottom side frame at right.
semlin
curmudgeon
zebrabeefj40 said:
that would require another smaller hole and running a small flexible vent line up the side of the trailer as Mike has. i should add you need an end cap for the hose threads for the filler line when not in use or they will get dirty. You also need the outlet line at the bottom of the tank. I would go with the same set up as for filling plus a reduction fitting to line up to the to the right line dimension for the pump so that I could use plastic all the way and also easily take the pump out when I wanted to use it as a utility trailer.
If you are using a plastic tank protected by skid plates all the fittings are available from marine suppliers as are tanks in different sizes and shape.
Exiled
SILVER Star
I used early FJ40 windshield clamps, which I had to shave down so they lay flat.
Exiled
SILVER Star
This thread inspired me, I spent some time this afternoon drilling a couple of holes in anticipation of another mod on the trailer...
semlin
curmudgeon
ok went and looked at an m101 tonight for sale locally and I'm very close to pulling the trigger. nice trailer although the tires and tracxking are skinnier than expected. I have some more questions for those who have gone before.
Exiled, can you post a close up shot of your lengthened tow yoke? I'd like to see how you did and how much you did it. I have a feeling I'll be doing this mod as Ih8backingup trailers with short tongues.
ditto photos for the tailgate mod from anyone who has done it. Did you sawzall/cutting wheel it or plasma? did the tailgate itself need any bracing along the edges? any good tips on where to get the hardware?
finally, I want to put a removable raised rack on it with a raised rack/hoops along each side and some cross bars to make it usable to carry lumber, or a boat or a tent. I am interested in how people have mounted to the body (and what sized, height and type of tubing they have used). I think I will want the racks to bolt to the body on the outside (so some kind of outrigger at the bottom) and then have 3 removable cross bars that fit into open flanges on the side racks.
Exiled, can you post a close up shot of your lengthened tow yoke? I'd like to see how you did and how much you did it. I have a feeling I'll be doing this mod as Ih8backingup trailers with short tongues.
ditto photos for the tailgate mod from anyone who has done it. Did you sawzall/cutting wheel it or plasma? did the tailgate itself need any bracing along the edges? any good tips on where to get the hardware?
finally, I want to put a removable raised rack on it with a raised rack/hoops along each side and some cross bars to make it usable to carry lumber, or a boat or a tent. I am interested in how people have mounted to the body (and what sized, height and type of tubing they have used). I think I will want the racks to bolt to the body on the outside (so some kind of outrigger at the bottom) and then have 3 removable cross bars that fit into open flanges on the side racks.
Semlin,
finally, I want to put a removable raised rack on it with a raised rack/hoops along each side and some cross bars to make it usable to carry lumber, or a boat or a tent. I am interested in how people have mounted to the body (and what sized, height and type of tubing they have used). I think I will want the racks to bolt to the body on the outside (so some kind of outrigger at the bottom) and then have 3 removable cross bars that fit into open flanges on the side racks.[/QUOTE]
You bring up some very good points. I need a rack system too, that will carry a boat that would be over the top of a tent mounted. At this point I am still investigating what would be the best method to accomplish that. My boat weighs in at around 200 pounds, and I will have to load and unload it by myself.
I'm very pleased with my 101.
Gman
finally, I want to put a removable raised rack on it with a raised rack/hoops along each side and some cross bars to make it usable to carry lumber, or a boat or a tent. I am interested in how people have mounted to the body (and what sized, height and type of tubing they have used). I think I will want the racks to bolt to the body on the outside (so some kind of outrigger at the bottom) and then have 3 removable cross bars that fit into open flanges on the side racks.[/QUOTE]
You bring up some very good points. I need a rack system too, that will carry a boat that would be over the top of a tent mounted. At this point I am still investigating what would be the best method to accomplish that. My boat weighs in at around 200 pounds, and I will have to load and unload it by myself.
I'm very pleased with my 101.
Gman
semlin said:
I made them out of 1 1/4 inch EMT conduit from Home Depot, about $12.00 for a 10 foot piece and plenty stout for holding the tent. The O.D. is 1.5 inches so it fits a 1.5 inch die for bending tubing. The clmps I found are bolt together from a tent and awning supply. They are sized for one-inch pipe (1.315 o.d) but I was able to get them to fit the conduit okay.
I think the M101s look cool, but they just seem a bit small IMO.
Henry, what if you just put a rectangular tank across the front of the trailer, with a tongue box in front of it? The only downside to this is you might have too much tongue weight. I know I do. If I were to put one on, it'd be undernieth behind the rear axle.
Dan
Trailer Thread
Those handles off the 40 look great for the gate on the 101. But some of us don't have access to those, what else has been used?
Gman
Those handles off the 40 look great for the gate on the 101. But some of us don't have access to those, what else has been used?
Gman
Carr Lane has good variety. http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/ind...20609090C0015482013180B041D1E173C3B285351425B
As does McMasterCarr. http://www.mcmaster.com/ search for Pull-Action Toggle Clamps
Dan
As does McMasterCarr. http://www.mcmaster.com/ search for Pull-Action Toggle Clamps
Dan
Jackass,
I think the M101s look cool, but they just seem a bit small IMO. JA quote
In my very humble opinion they are great for two people. When you have more they would become too small quickly. But if you had children etc, you could put them in another tent besides the one on the 101. Once we get ours set up we will put the grandchildren in another tent on the ground.
Gman
I think the M101s look cool, but they just seem a bit small IMO. JA quote
In my very humble opinion they are great for two people. When you have more they would become too small quickly. But if you had children etc, you could put them in another tent besides the one on the 101. Once we get ours set up we will put the grandchildren in another tent on the ground.
Gman
Details
I used a slam latch on the tailgate, and two pinned loops for trail security - visible in the photo. The slam latch is stainless and locks for security. Check McMaster-Carr for lots of latches, etc.
The lid uses lockable cam latches - stainless.
If you do a lid (mine's aluminum - powder coated), be sure to allow for the tailgate to be opened with the lid locked in place.
Cutting a tailgate in a 101 wil require that the sides be reinforced so that the box will not flex, seals, nimges, latches, etc. There would be quite a lot of fab work to make it correct.
Mike
Grouseman said:
I used a slam latch on the tailgate, and two pinned loops for trail security - visible in the photo. The slam latch is stainless and locks for security. Check McMaster-Carr for lots of latches, etc.
The lid uses lockable cam latches - stainless.
If you do a lid (mine's aluminum - powder coated), be sure to allow for the tailgate to be opened with the lid locked in place.
Cutting a tailgate in a 101 wil require that the sides be reinforced so that the box will not flex, seals, nimges, latches, etc. There would be quite a lot of fab work to make it correct.
Mike
Mike,
Good point about the effects of cutting in a door on the trailer. Maybe I might want to hold off on that mod for a while. Can you tell us what guage Alum. you used for your lid and how it was reinforced? Pics under the lid would be nice. Do you have any idea how much weight would be saved by using the Alum vs. the comparable strength in steel?
Steve
Good point about the effects of cutting in a door on the trailer. Maybe I might want to hold off on that mod for a while. Can you tell us what guage Alum. you used for your lid and how it was reinforced? Pics under the lid would be nice. Do you have any idea how much weight would be saved by using the Alum vs. the comparable strength in steel?
Steve
semlin said:
Since these lunettes are removeable, is it possible to buy a second and cut the shaft in half and weld in some sort of extension? Or is the bar too thick? I know nothing about welding but his seems to me to be a good way to lengthen the yoke without having to cut the M101.
I am really pleased with the strength of the M101 so far. I haven't really tested it much on the trail yet but it can't be too bad since it was designed for the military.
lowenbrau
SILVER Star
The M101cdn has way more strength where the walls meet the floor than a M100 or M416 does. I've seen a few with tailgates now and very little additional support is required. It really does change the functionality of the trailer when it has a tailgate. I'll be doing mine soon.
Here is a strong way to do it if you are concerned.
Stolen from Yankeedoodler on the m101cdn yahoogroup
Here is a strong way to do it if you are concerned.
Stolen from Yankeedoodler on the m101cdn yahoogroup
semlin
curmudgeon
it also saves the triangles 
called my local fab shop today to ask if he'll do some work. must be trailer season or something. owner has a stock 101 and had just gotten off the phone ordering parts to mod his own. Looks like a side by side build up might be in the works.
called my local fab shop today to ask if he'll do some work. must be trailer season or something. owner has a stock 101 and had just gotten off the phone ordering parts to mod his own. Looks like a side by side build up might be in the works.
Grouseman said:
Steve
The aluminum is 12 or 14 gauge, I think. Been a while so I am not remembering exactly. In the picture below you can see the stiffeners in the lid from below - stich welded in place, and supports the roof rack and tent without problems.
Not the upright that holds the rear lights. This is a 2 X 3 X 1/4" square tube that is welded to the bottom frame, and supports the trailer box at the tail gate. The tailgate hinge is welded to the frame as well - at the bottom of the upright tube. Also not dual gas rams, etc.
too cool. Don't really need a trailer right now but cool reading this thread. Sometime in the next year or so I plan on building an off road trailer from scratch as well...
