Off Road / Camping Trailer - Home Build

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Like others me too got inspired by seeing various trailer builds happening in this forum and i decided to build one for me mainly for camping purpose. I found one utility trailer on CL and i am picking it up this Sunday and will bring it home. The parts i am going to use from this utility trailer is axle, springs and hubs. I already have a 15 inch wheels that would fit this hub.

Now i started planning about building the frame. the size i have in my mind is 4 x 6 and started shopping around for tube steel. I see various specifications in this forum for the tube steel. My axle rating is 2000 lbs and for 4 x 6 frame what size of tube you guys suggest ? let me know? will 2" x 2" with .12 thickness will work ? experts suggestions please..

i am in Seattle, can some one suggest me a good place to buy them ?

I will post the build pics as and when i progress to get more suggestions and critics comments..

thanks in advance..
Bala
 
Frame tube size depends on how much weight you're planning to carry on the trailer, and whether it is predominately a distributed load or several point loads or even just one heavy item.

Tube geometry and orientation is also important. Since most of the loadings on a trailer frame are in the vertical direction a 2x3 .12 wall tube stood on edge will be stronger than a 2x2 .12 wall tube, but the 2x3 .12 wall tube laid flat will be only slightly stronger than the 2x2 .12 wall tube. A 2x4 .12 wall tube on edge will be even stronger than the 2x3 .12 wall on edge, but will weigh more. That is the battle, estimate the strength that you need and then figure out if it's going to weigh too much. Weight per foot charts for steel shapes are posted on the net, shouldn't bee too hard to find one. It could easily be that a 2x4 .065 wall tube frame will be strong enough and weigh less than a weaker 2x3 .12 wall tube frame.
 
Normally 2x2 120 wall is strong enough for any off road trailer. Of course it depends on how the frame is made. Most seem to just make a box, with no gussetts or cross members. Then run a 2.5x2.5 down the center. Again way over kill on the back bone. If the front of the trailer is triangulated within the frame it will never break, or at least I have never had one break in over 25 years. I would never use 065 for a frame under any circumstance, due to the eaze of bending and denting it. Way too light weight I think. building a good frame requires a jig to keep it from warping and straight. tack weld and then go from side to side to do your finsh welds, never start on one side and weld it all up and then go to the other, or you will have problems.

Frames also depend on upper wall construction for strength. If you are using steel with steel sides you will have no problems. In other words a military design.

Most of our trailers never carry anywhere near what axles we run. If you are using a standard axle, I would go with a 3500 pound axle with 2000 pound spring set up. Do not overspring the weight of the trailer and its cargo, too much and it tears the trailer appart and everything inside of it.

Have fun.
 
Keep thinking lightweight. Beef it up where it needs it and strive for lightweight everywhere else.

However, 2x2 .120" tube will work all day long.

Drew
 
Forgot to edit my post; If .065 wall were used it should be plated with another layer of at least .065 strap (or thicker) where ground/rock/etc. contact could be made, and it wouldn't hurt if it were doubled where high stress points like suspension mounts were attached. That way you get a frame that is thick only where it needs to be without carrying extra weight of thickness where it isn't needed. Other than that caveat I don't see any reason not to use it.

fwiw according to EMJ 2x2 x .065 weighs 1.711 lbs/ft
 
has anyone considered a utility bed as trailer?

My thinking is that you could use the truck axles under the utility bed. Plus still have room for a slide in camper shell. Have all the space you could want. Would the weight be excessive?
 
My thinking is that you could use the truck axles under the utility bed. Plus still have room for a slide in camper shell. Have all the space you could want. Would the weight be excessive?

Yep it's been done. There was one a guy did not to long ago for sale that had a RTT on it, and then there is this one..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/308805-my-mobile-base-camp-build.html

You can actually buy a utility bed trailer brand new - but they're pricey.

I found a s-10 sized utility bed on craig's list for $250 not that long ago which would have been perfect, but I missed it.
 

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