OEM Lockers with SPST Rocker Switches & LEDs

[ThundererZeuS]

Hello Dear All,

This is my first post here although I have been viewing those forums for some time now, so please bear with me on this really old heavily treated topic.

I bought a 102,000KM 1997 FZJ80 with a peculiar set of options; it has barn doors, twin AC, Cooler console, electric seats, AND drum brakes, no ABS or Airbags (I am in Lebanon). Anyway, I changed the axles to have rear disks and factory lockers rear and front, and now I am looking to wire those lockers.

I am not electronically or mechanically savvy and I searched these forums and the web (maybe not long or hard enough) and I have seen many answers on wiring but I cannot make sense of it all or make it fit my case, so sorry for asking again, and the long topic.

this is what i would like to do, I have seen some cool Contura V switches that say they are ON/OFF SPST switches with nice diagrams and different colors for leds in them (green/amber) link: OTRATTW

so what i would want is to flip the switch to on, the locker would be moving to lock and the upper led will be blinking/flashing and then when it is fully locked the light will stay ON (i understood there is a wire for fully locked on the locker); and then when I switch if OFF the upper led will be blinking as it releasing and then be OFF once done, is this something doable, has anyone done it, is there a wiring diagram that I can share with the person who will do my wiring, can I have a kill switch that disengages the lockers and kills power to the switches?

I tried to discuss this with the few mechanics who are in my region and they are dismissive or they want to sell me the harness with OEM switch and ECU etc and they want a kidney and a lung for them.

thank you for your patience

Joe

 

[b4wheeler]

I am interested in the same thing. I want to be able to control my OEM lockers individually with a pair of Carling switches. I will subscribe to keep up to date.

 

[landcrshr]

Without the factory components, at the very minimum you will need a (momentary) DPDT switch for each locker. Then you will need the indicator lights, but getting them to blink is more tricky. I have a circuit for that, but it does require electronics skilz.

I think there's an aftermarket kit out there, but not sure if it provides the blinking lights.

 

[landcrshr]

Kits here, but not 80 specific.

4-RUNNER - HOME

 

[landcrshr]

Here's the kit you want.

Slee - Electrical Switches

 

[Tools R Us]

Because of how the factory lockers work and the functionality they have (some of it, like the blinky lights, arguably pretty useless) the circuit is somewhat complex. If you are paying someone to figure it out and replicate, likely will cost more than getting the factory stuff that plugs right in?

Have worked on a couple of rigs with the aftermarket circuit, not impressed, have had problems with them. Don't recall any of them having the blinky light thing? The advantage is; you can say, see my lockers lock and unlock instantly, see the lights, like the aftermarket locker guys do.

Likely the best way to do what you want: Get the factory relay box, install as factory. Cut the harness at the switch and wire to the bitchin switches. Then butcher the harness to the cluster, hijack the wires to the blinky lights and extend to the LEDs. Then you would have the bitchin switchs with the bitchin, blinky LEDs!

 

[landcrshr]

Yeah, the blinky lights are really only useful when the system is interlocked with the CDL and speed-sensor circuit.
And yes, I've replicated that on my home-brew unit.

 

[ThundererZeuS]

Thank you guys, so whats the difference between slee and the 4runner, 4runner has cables that look like they connect to the lockers and then a dpdt switch, and no black box of relays? How would that work? Keep pressing the button to lock and then keep pressing to unlock?

Sorry, am pretty useless. I want a safe option that looks and works reliably well.

 

[TrickyT]

...I want a safe option that looks and works reliably well.

That would be the the factory relay box then.

 

[RFB]

Thank you guys, so whats the difference between slee and the 4runner, 4runner has cables that look like they connect to the lockers and then a dpdt switch, and no black box of relays? How would that work? Keep pressing the button to lock and then keep pressing to unlock?

Sorry, am pretty useless. I want a safe option that looks and works reliably well.

Barns doors are awesome also welcome to the forum

 

[ThundererZeuS]

Thank you, i also have two wheel drive unless i engage an H4 button on the dash which i assume is cdl, the drum brakes is what puzzles me the most, weird set of options

Can i combine the 4 runner cable with slee offroad box?

 

[landcrshr]

I have no experience with any of the aftermarket options, but whichever controller you use, you will need a wire harness from the axle to the body. What about the donor vehicle you got the axles from? Can you still harvest those parts from that truck?

 

[ThundererZeuS]

I am going to check for the harness, I got them from a wrecked car that had internal fire damage, so donno what I'll find. I'm travelling so can check in a week or so, meanwhile has anyone done end to end solution that can help me out please with a diagram?

Fj80s in my home country are in high demand and prices are sky-high. Most are non locked and owners are going ARB air locker, I wanted OEM and now I've had them on since 4 months but not wired also changed to 5.29 and 35s BF Goodrich with 2.5 iron man foam pro, now i just need to complete the lockers

 

[landcrshr]

Here's a diagram for a system that will automatically lock/unlock with the flip of a switch.

I've never tried this, but I think it should work. For each locker, you'll need (3) SPDT relays, plus a SPST dash switch.

This doesn't provide for indicator lights, but if you make it that far, I can help you when you get there. Have fun!

 

[TrickyT]

I am going to check for the harness, I got them from a wrecked car that had internal fire damage, so donno what I'll find. I'm travelling so can check in a week or so, meanwhile has anyone done end to end solution that can help me out please with a diagram?

Fj80s in my home country are in high demand and prices are sky-high. Most are non locked and owners are going ARB air locker, I wanted OEM and now I've had them on since 4 months but not wired also changed to 5.29 and 35s BF Goodrich with 2.5 iron man foam pro, now i just need to complete the lockers

I'm not very familiar with non-USA 80's, so I don't know if the factory wiring harness in your truck came pre-wired for the Toyota diff lock ECU. You can look inside the passenger side kick panel and see if there is an unused gray 16-pin connector (two rows of terminals, 7 in one and 9 in the other) sitting there. If so, then your harness has most of the wiring needed for the factory locker control and you just need to source the two portions of the harness that connect the diff lock actuators to the main factory harness, and these should be on the vehicle the axles came out of. Plus you'll need the diff lock ECU, of course, and the diff lock rotary switch from the instrument panel. The factory switch is readily available, p/n 84725-60020. And the ECU, p/n 89533-60030, is also available from several sources. So if the factory harness is wired for the diff lock ECU (which also means it's wired for the factory diff lock switch) then you are not that far away from having a plug-and-play solution.

If the factory harness does not have the 16-pin connector then I would forget the OEM approach and go with a custom built control unit like @landcrshr describes above.

EDIT: PM sent with a link to follow up.

 

[ThundererZeuS]

Here's a diagram for a system that will automatically lock/unlock with the flip of a switch.

View attachment 1718911

I've never tried this, but I think it should work. For each locker, you'll need (3) SPDT relays, plus a SPST dash switch.

This doesn't provide for indicator lights, but if you make it that far, I can help you when you get there. Have fun!

So with this diagram I can run wires directly from each of the motors to a box that contains those relays, and everything should work, correct? and i've read that there is an additional connector that connects to each motor that gives a status of locked/unlocked, so I can run this to a single led above the SPST switch on the dash.

I understand that the motors have internal protection if they run to lock and to unlock to stop, a stop of sorts, so I dont have to worry about that?

sorry guys to keep asking what seem to be same questions

 

[ThundererZeuS]

Barns doors are awesome also welcome to the forum

Awesome indeed, I had to move the tire mount in the tire carrier to accommodate a 35" BF tire

 

[mudgudgeon]

Difflock circuit diagram from the FSM.
You can replicate the basic controls with relays as shown in the right hand side of the diagram, but it won't give you blinking lights, just On or Off.

I believe you can eliminate the relays and just use simple switches.

 

[b4wheeler]

That diagram makes the entire job look amazingly simple. JUst pu one switch between power and #12 on the ECU and one between power and #6 on the ecu. Or even easier between #1 and #4 on the diff switch for the rear diff locker and between #1 and #2 on the diff switch for the front diff. As long as all the other requirements are met, like low range and CDL.

 

[RhinoJr]

When I installed my front locker (using a momentary Carling switch from OTRATTW also) I wanted the dash's locked indicators to illuminate, so I wired the dash light using a socket pigtail (from someone like autoillumination). I think it is a type 74. Allows you to replace the dash bulb with a bulb socket that is separately wired, to provide power directly to its bulb without regard to the factory cluster circuit trace. Works great and I think it looks better and takes advantage of the indication that's already built into your dash. Hope this helps. Good luck.