OEM fan clutch failed within 2k of TB/WP job :(

[geanes]

Did my timing belt/waterpump job (tkt021 kit) last month and figured I'd replace the fan bracket with a new OEM Toyota one while I was in there. Within 400 miles, the engine sounded like a jet motor at higher RPMs (sounded "airy"). Checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the throttle body and MAF, checked the PCV valve, checked the snorkel for blockages as well as exhaust system. Checked the timing as well. As it turned out, I decided to try and "spin" the fan while the engine was off. Aaaaaaaannnnnnd....fan is locked. Can't believe the fan clutch decided to crap out right after I put in a new fan bracket. Oh well

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Best of luck in your repair.
I just did the TB job, all because the fan bracket (original from the factory!!) had decided that 21 years and a quarter million miles was enough! I also did not replace the fan clutch but now I am thinking may that was a mistake.
At least the clutch doesn't require the face of the engine be taken off like the fan bracket does!

 

[geanes]

Best of luck in your repair.
I just did the TB job, all because the fan bracket (original from the factory!!) had decided that 21 years and a quarter million miles was enough! I also did not replace the fan clutch but now I am thinking may that was a mistake.
At least the clutch doesn't require the face of the engine be taken off like the fan bracket does!

Thank GOD! I didn't want to have go back in and do all that work again. Clutch should take about an hour at most and another $180 out of my pocket

 

[Micheal Scott]

You can replace the silicon let it drain out time consuming but cheap fix

 

[ShenValley100LC]

You can replace the silicon let it drain out time consuming but cheap fix

Care to explain? I saw this hinted at in another thread and a small explanation of how a viscous fan works in another forum but not sure I totally understand how changing the fluid fixes it. A little afraid to spend the time on that and then not fix the issue. Is the fluid essentially what failed and it no longer is rightly cooling/heating up and changing pressure/viscosity inside the clutch?

Thank GOD! I didn't want to have go back in and do all that work again. Clutch should take about an hour at most and another $180 out of my pocket

Geane, how long did this end up taking? And was there a write on this site you used? I fear I have the same issue on mine. While driving up the mountains to Asheville the car suddenly seemed louder to me, like you said "airy" or like a jet engine. The performed just fine and so I thought nothing of it, plus its hard to tell if my paranoia on a 500k mile car is the real cause. I said nothing of it, and then yesterday my wife (whom I've also made paranoid) called me and said the car sounded extra loud to her (I had not mentioned noticing this to her the weekend before). So I'm guessing I didn't just imagine this, waiting to get off work today so I do the cold/hot fan test by hand or the stop test. Not looking to do a full TB job, as I've infuriated the wife enough with how much time (not to mention $$$) I spend on it.

Anyone know the eventual failure that would occur if you were to just keep running this as is?

 

[ShenValley100LC]

What I am having trouble understanding is when you know it is the bearings in the fans bracket vs when it is the fan clutch that causing an issue. Are they distinct sounds/failure modes?

 

[ACC Toyota]

So. if your fan clutch is old replace it with new OEM. However before you install it, take it apart and drain the oil (if there actually is any in it) replace with a quality 30,000 cst silicone oil. Your cooling system and AC will love you for it.

Remove the screws that hold the two halves together carefully tap the two halves apart over a drain pan, remove the large O ring and set aside, drain the oil from the clutch this can sometimes take up to a six pack while waiting.

After the oil is out take 2 @ 2 fl. oz bottles of 30.000 cst oil and pour one in each side, this will only require 1 to 2 beers time.

OK now for the hard part, reinstall the O ring into its groove (make sure the groove and the opposite mating surface are free from any oil) reinstall the screw put the halves back together, MAKE SURE THE O RING STAYS IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING, and thats it.

Hint: use two box end wrenches to loosen and tighten the fan clutch nuts when removing and installing, one wrench to tighten/loosen the other to stop the clutch from spinning.

You can find the oil in many places, we get ours at Hobby Lobby.

Good luck and happy trails,
Dugan

 

[ShenValley100LC]

So. if your fan clutch is old replace it with new OEM. However before you install it, take it apart and drain the oil (if there actually is any in it) replace with a quality 30,000 cst silicone oil. Your cooling system and AC will love you for it.

Remove the screws that hold the two halves together carefully tap the two halves apart over a drain pan, remove the large O ring and set aside, drain the oil from the clutch this can sometimes take up to a six pack while waiting.

After the oil is out take 2 @ 2 fl. oz bottles of 30.000 cst oil and pour one in each side, this will only require 1 to 2 beers time.

OK now for the hard part, reinstall the O ring into its groove (make sure the groove and the opposite mating surface are free from any oil) reinstall the screw put the halves back together, MAKE SURE THE O RING STAYS IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING, and thats it.

Hint: use two box end wrenches to loosen and tighten the fan clutch nuts when removing and installing, one wrench to tighten/loosen the other to stop the clutch from spinning.

You can find the oil in many places, we get ours at Hobby Lobby.

Good luck and happy trails,
Dugan

ACC, are you saying that that is what you should do with a new one? I assume because the 30,000 cst oil is better than whatever is inside the Aisin part?

 

[abuck99]

Appreciate you chiming in with the Pro tip. So you are recommending replacing the fluid on a new fan clutch from the get go. What is the major improvement with the 30k cst oil over the factory fill?

Thanks

 

[ShenValley100LC]

Agreed abuck99, thanks for jumping in ACC really appreciate it! I hate to jump on but my other question (granted I'm at work so I haven't actually diagnosed the fan clutch or tested it) is this an immediate service item (as in DON'T drive until done) or just ASAP and monitor cooling/temps if you have to drive it somewhere?

 

[ACC Toyota]

ACC, are you saying that that is what you should do with a new one? I assume because the 30,000 cst oil is better than whatever is inside the Aisin part?

Yes, we have even opened new ones that had next to no oil inside

 

[ACC Toyota]

Agreed abuck99, thanks for jumping in ACC really appreciate it! I hate to jump on but my other question (granted I'm at work so I haven't actually diagnosed the fan clutch or tested it) is this an immediate service item (as in DON'T drive until done) or just ASAP and monitor cooling/temps if you have to drive it somewhere?

I dont think it is a "danger" to anything from what you are describing, I would just watch temps and get to it when you can.

 

[ACC Toyota]

Appreciate you chiming in with the Pro tip. So you are recommending replacing the fluid on a new fan clutch from the get go. What is the major improvement with the 30k cst oil over the factory fill?

Thanks

The improvement is actually huge for the little bit of cost. You WILL NOT see any difference on your gauge (thats a long explanation and not for here) but your AC performance should improve greatly. It also helps a lot with trans temps.

 

[ShenValley100LC]

The improvement is actually huge for the little bit of cost. You WILL NOT see any difference on your gauge (thats a long explanation and not for here) but your AC performance should improve greatly. It also helps a lot with trans temps.

Really? That's surprising to me? I just hit 498,000 this weekend but even in the mountains its been staying 186-188, my AC blows straight ice even on low its too much for me (P/O had all replaced just before he sold it), not sure about trans temp as for some reasons my obdii scanner doesnt pick it up and I havent put in a hard gauge yet. Is the performance boost just because its putting more air on the trans line and the cooler or what exactly?

 

[ACC Toyota]

Really? That's surprising to me? I just hit 498,000 this weekend but even in the mountains its been staying 186-188, my AC blows straight ice even on low its too much for me (P/O had all replaced just before he sold it), not sure about trans temp as for some reasons my obdii scanner doesnt pick it up and I havent put in a hard gauge yet. Is the performance boost just because its putting more air on the trans line and the cooler or what exactly?

Yep, just moving a lot more air all of the time

 

[95Fantasma80]

So. if your fan clutch is old replace it with new OEM. However before you install it, take it apart and drain the oil (if there actually is any in it) replace with a quality 30,000 cst silicone oil. Your cooling system and AC will love you for it.

Remove the screws that hold the two halves together carefully tap the two halves apart over a drain pan, remove the large O ring and set aside, drain the oil from the clutch this can sometimes take up to a six pack while waiting.

After the oil is out take 2 @ 2 fl. oz bottles of 30.000 cst oil and pour one in each side, this will only require 1 to 2 beers time.

OK now for the hard part, reinstall the O ring into its groove (make sure the groove and the opposite mating surface are free from any oil) reinstall the screw put the halves back together, MAKE SURE THE O RING STAYS IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING, and thats it.

Hint: use two box end wrenches to loosen and tighten the fan clutch nuts when removing and installing, one wrench to tighten/loosen the other to stop the clutch from spinning.

You can find the oil in many places, we get ours at Hobby Lobby.

Good luck and happy trails,
Dugan

any chance we can buy this upgraded fan clutch from you, sounds like too many beers for me haha!

 

[ACC Toyota]

any chance we can buy this upgraded fan clutch from you, sounds like too many beers for me haha!

Sure

 

[abuck99]

Yep, just moving a lot more air all of the time

Since you opened this “can of fan clutch”, I’d like to learn more.

“A lot more air all the time” so am I understanding correctly that the fan clutch is still engaged at higher rpms and or higher driving speeds all the time? Is there any effect on engine load, the longevity of fan bracket bearing, especially if the fan isnt well balanced (which mine doesnt appear to be) . Just wondering if theres any downside.

Thanks in advance

 

[abuck99]

The idea of swapping the fan clutch oil, or topping it up has really peaked my curiosity. Simply attempting to understand the cause & effect of adding more oil, adding heavier oil and adjusting the engagement temperature ( for clutches that are adjustable). This seems to be a "thing" on 80's and I haven't seen much or any discussion on the 100 forum regarding this, so either few know of it or the fan clutch has been better matched on the 100 series? Several threads on the topic in the 80 section.

Anyway I found a good article explaining the process to split the fan clutch, add or change oil and adjust engagement. My only question is if the Toyota silicone oil is 10,000 cST, and the clutches are typically underfilled, why not top up the fluid level with 10kcST oil first and adjust the engagement before adding heavier oil?

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Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch

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[ShenValley100LC]

Idk but I already ordered 30,000 cst oil and I plan to put it in...I suppose if I drain out the original from my new fan clutch I could mix them. It was hard to find tho, ended up ordering it online. Now what is this, abuck99, about tuning it? How would you change the engagement temperature?