Odd bearing noise to diagnose?

[12guns]

2000 LC with 302k miles. I've done front wheel bearings in the past few weeks thinking that was my problem. I have NOT done, or really checked the rear bearings yet. This started when my trac control light flashes and beeps at 35 mph when turning sharp to the right. That problem persisted after the front bearings were done. SO....the noise I'm getting is a "roaring" noise that gets worse at highway speeds. When I change lanes back and forth, I can hear/feel the roaring getting worse, then going away depending on which "turn" I'm in. My theory was that the front diff might have internal bearing issues that get louder when the one side loads up. Today I had the front diff fluid drained and filled. Clean fluid came out and zero change to the noise at highway speed (not that I expected a fluid change to fix anything). Has anybody had a similar issue? I'm normally pretty good to diagnose a problem, but this one has me stumped. Any thoughts? My u joints are old (probably original) but I don't have any vibration that normally comes with a failing u joint and this sounds to be EXACTLY like a roaring bad wheel bearing. I suppose my first step is to check the rear bearings, but not sure if they are bad enough to have any play in the rear wheel when jacked up. I'm open to thoughts and solutions before I drop this at a shop on Monday. The shop that did my front wheel bearings recently were supposed to check the rear, but I feel like they jumped to the conclusion that I initially did and replaced the front wheel bearings. Thanks in advance for any tips and pointers.

 

[2001LC]

2000 LC with 302k miles. I've done front wheel bearings in the past few weeks thinking that was my problem. I have NOT done, or really checked the rear bearings yet. This started when my trac control light flashes and beeps at 35 mph when turning sharp to the right. That problem persisted after the front bearings were done. SO....the noise I'm getting is a "roaring" noise that gets worse at highway speeds. When I change lanes back and forth, I can hear/feel the roaring getting worse, then going away depending on which "turn" I'm in. My theory was that the front diff might have internal bearing issues that get louder when the one side loads up. Today I had the front diff fluid drained and filled. Clean fluid came out and zero change to the noise at highway speed (not that I expected a fluid change to fix anything). Has anybody had a similar issue? I'm normally pretty good to diagnose a problem, but this one has me stumped. Any thoughts? My u joints are old (probably original) but I don't have any vibration that normally comes with a failing u joint and this sounds to be EXACTLY like a roaring bad wheel bearing. I suppose my first step is to check the rear bearings, but not sure if they are bad enough to have any play in the rear wheel when jacked up. I'm open to thoughts and solutions before I drop this at a shop on Monday. The shop that did my front wheel bearings recently were supposed to check the rear, but I feel like they jumped to the conclusion that I initially did and replaced the front wheel bearings. Thanks in advance for any tips and pointers.

Bad rear wheel bearings, we typically we see gear lube leak near bottom of brake dust shield. Chicken and eggs. Seal fails, takes out rear bearings, bearings fail takes out seal.

Make sure CDL is off. By backing up, steering wheel turned all the way either direction. Tires skip if CDL engaged.

Most common issue kicking on TRAC, on dry pavement on normal driving and turns. Loose wheel bearings. I see many shops mess these up. So for sure check wheel bearings for play, there shouldn't be any.

Here's a very bad wheel bearing service, ~ 1k miles afterwards. They made many mistakes. Worst was, installed wheel hub seal backward. Thes gives false feel wheel bearing preload tight. After driving, metal of seal in backwards, wears down. Resulting in, very loose wheel bearings.

 

[2001LC]

Also check ball joint and rack & pinion bushings.

Typically bearings bad or under lubed, make an oscillation sound.

Another sound, is from axle needle bearings. This one is difficult to pinpoint and I'm seeing more these days as fleet ages. Since these are not lubed, as called for every 30K miles. Fact is, only Slee and I and few other shops a DIY, evey lubed them. Dealership never do, nor INDY shops.

For roar:
Also check fan clutch, for roaring sound. Which when fully engaged, we hear a roar. But this happens after coolant operating temp exceeded (above 187F in 2000). If roaring early, never or at all time, replace it.

Additionally, check spiders (AKA U-joints) of propeller shafts (AKA drive shafts) aft and forward. Under lube the can get loud, but usually oscillating sound..

FDS (front drive shafts AKA CV) need inspecting. These ussaul click, in turns when CV bearing of FDS bad.

If all check out okay. I have seen the 2000 have frt diff issue, produce sound hard to track down. By running in gear while on a life/jackstands. Use a stethoscope to pinpoint, is very helpful.

 

[12guns]

Thanks for the tips! I'm dropping it off tomorrow morning at a known good Cruiser mechanic. He'll double check the bearing job, check rear bearings, etc. If anybody can track down my problem, he can. I'll post back if we come up with a solution!

 

[12guns]

Well, I found my problem. The shop that I JUST paid $2600 to do front wheel bearings, window regulator, and manifold cover gaskets did NOT do the bearings correctly. There was old grease still in the hub, tons of metal shavings, NO LOCK RING installed, etc. It also looks like they did not replace the bearing race, just replaced the needle bearings. What a mess. I paid a different shop to redo everything and things are back to normal. If anybody is in central Arkansas, I highly recommend Forestwood Automotive out highway 300 in West LR. Forest knows his stuff and will be the only one working on my Cruiser moving forward. The new bearings also fixed my trac control light beeping at times under normal driving conditions. What a mess.

 

[plainjanefjc]

Stinks the other shop did a hack job- part of the reason I attempt my own repairs, figure I can hack it together a lot cheaper... Glad you found a good shop!

 

[2001LC]

Frankly most times, I'm correct the mess other shops have made. As in video above.

 

[nissanh]

I do not trust outside shops in my area. Anything they touch needs attention.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah, there's only a few services, I hire out.

• Tire mount work. i.e mounting, road force balancing and TPS install. Even then I go into shop, making sure they lift at proper points and don't damage my lugs
• Windshield, but I do all molding R&R. I watch every step they do. I may, start doing my own installs. As most of these installers, cause so much damage.
• Alignements. But even this, I having issues with. I've a Lexus Dealership, that owed me 4 (I've used 2) 4wh alignments service. They owe them, due to damaged (a lot and unsafe to drive) they caused during a snap ring recall service. Even during alignment, they've managing to cause unrelated damage. 1st in, they cause a mirnoir 3" windshield crack, to become multiple massive cracks side to side top to bottom. They also, idle vehicle for more than 1 hour (more than a 1/4 tank of gas). Resulting in near failing State Emission test and a reduction in MPG. In my LX, that had the best MPG of any 100 series I've had in 22 yrs. Also it's previous emission test, was so good. State emission calibrator, who happen to be in that day. Came out and stop me as I was leaving, after the test. To ask, if I'd replaced CATs and or engine. "Nope, I had not" At 318K miles, it's one of my best engine ever. Until this Lexus Dealership had in their care. A few high RPMs runs/burns, has help get in near back to where it was.

Fact is, much more service is done improper, than 97% of drivers every know. Resulting in increase maintenance $$$, over the long run. Most only know, it runs when they drive away radio blaring.