Odd battery drain, less drain after doors locked, 06 LX470 (1 Viewer)

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What happens when the doors are locked is that the ecu's lose there power supplies. Modern cars with mutiplexing use a different style to supply there equipment or systems. Instead of having ignition feeds, the body Ecu controls this. I haven't looked at all the wiring diagrams to be a 100% accurate with the toyota system but I can paint a picture of what generally happens.

Like mentioned, the body Ecu controls the supplies to the equipment, a car is more like a computer these days, and the ecu's are part of this computer system and communicate with each other with 0's and 1's, and like a computer they can't just be unplugged, this is why you shouldn't just disconnect a battery, not until the system is ready.

So instead of being switched off with a lose of the power supply instantly when the key is removed, they go into standby like a Television. It then sits there waiting for you to give it instruction. Getting out of the vehicle, shutting the door and locking it, tells the vehicle you have gone and to shut down and not just be in standby, so it then shuts the systems down and removes the power supplies to the equipment. It then sits there waiting to be unlocked to wake the systems back up ready for you to use. They do this as like a computer it takes a bit of time to start up, so it gets a head start by turning everything into standby before you put the key in the ignition.

There is normally a time out, as if nothing has been touched in 15mins, the vehicle will shut down as it presumes your gone even without locking it, if it senses your there by you turning the radio on or operating anything then it won't shut down. This is where your issues seems to be, it is seeing something in this timed period that stops it shutting down.

Getting out and shutting the door and locking it shuts the vehicle down without a delay, but again this process can take 2 minutes or upto 10 minutes if you have factory Sat Nav.

Your radio is a ecu, Instrument panel is, most equipment is a ecu as it communicates on the multiplex network sharing information.
 
how we used to disconnect the battery, is to put a Amp clamp on the battery, hold the bonnet switch shut, open and shut the door, lock it. You wait for the vehicle to shut down by watching the amp clamp and then disconnect the battery. The most common issue you get if you don't follow this procedure is you damage the Sat Nav as this takes the longest to shut down, it is like pulling the plug on your computer when on and then getting the blue screen on startup.
 
I recognize this was a couple years ago, but was any resolution reached? I'm dealing with a similar issue.


I don't know if it was ever resolved, since I haven't had this problem.

But, I think the number 1 cause of battery drain is the auxiliary CD player tried to eject the CDs that may or may not be present. Unplug the auxiliary CD player.

I think the 2nd most common cause of the drain is the headunit trying to do the same thing. Pull the fuse for the radio from the fuse block.

3rd problem is the automatic headlights (left in the auto mode) draw more power, so turn them off manually to see if that helps.

Hopefully this is some help to you.
 
I don't know if it was ever resolved, since I haven't had this problem.

But, I think the number 1 cause of battery drain is the auxiliary CD player tried to eject the CDs that may or may not be present. Unplug the auxiliary CD player.

I think the 2nd most common cause of the drain is the headunit trying to do the same thing. Pull the fuse for the radio from the fuse block.

3rd problem is the automatic headlights (left in the auto mode) draw more power, so turn them off manually to see if that helps.

Hopefully this is some help to you.
And also arm your alarm so the ecu's go to sleep.
 
Does locking with the key fob arm the alarm? I understand the ignorance of the question. Every other alarm equipped car I've owned gives some sort of audible report to signify the alarm is activated.
 
My 01 LX beeps when I arm/lock the doors. The good thing is, if it doesn't beep, it means a door/doors haven't locked. That happens to me sometimes when it's really hot outside. I know if I don't hear a beep, I'll have to manually lock that door.
 
I thought I had a battery drain in our LX, but it turned out to be a dying battery. I never really investigated it with a meter, but I eventually had to get a new battery because I couldn't start the engine after sitting overnight. Bought a battery with a really good warranty. That was a year ago. No more problems.

About 3 years ago, our Odyssey also had all kinds of problems, and I was thinking I had a lemon on my hands. I bought a DieHard Gold. No problem in 4 years, even though my kids leave the interior lights on regurlarly.
 
Resurfacing this thread as I’m having similar issues. Driving an 06 LX with 183k.

Bought the truck a month ago, had to get jumped off the dealer lot but figured with an almost 4-yo AAA branded battery it just needed replacing. Died twice more over the next two weeks, so replaced it last week with an X2 battery, that has died twice in the first week including tonight while filling up the tank. Started fine at work, drove 2 miles to gas station, wouldn’t start after a 5-minute fill up. Wife picks me up, jumps fine with her car (after not jumping with another gas station customer’s car), drive 5 miles and 15 minutes to dinner, starts up fine after.

I’m a novice but here’s what I know:
- Old battery has corrosion in negative terminal, cleaned with a toothbrush but admittedly not well. And no @2001LC, I did not oil, yet
- VSC Off and VSC Trac lights turned on last week the day I replaced the battery (before replacement). Haven’t run codes yet
- Had the TB/WP and thermostat replaced last week but shop couldn’t check VSC because new battery zeroed out codes
- Per service records, alternator was replaced 6 years / 63k miles ago
- This weekend I noticed the truck locks itself 60 seconds or so after key is pulled from ignition, but only when the battery seems to be low
- Has 3 aftermarket DVDs, one of which replaced the center dome and has power to LEDs but no power to rest of unit. 2 other are headrest units for the 3rd row that might be drawing. Doesn’t explain the dead battery at the gas station though, after 5 minutes
- Auto headlight has been on. I realize this draws but it’s better than me forgetting to turn off the headlights
- Just took the CD changer cartridge out tonight, though CD works fine
- Half the Nav buttons don’t work. Error message is bad navigation DVD or something, in both English and Japanese

Thanks in advance. Need to get a meter and start pulling fuses this weekend. Any ideas before then appreciated.
 
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locking by itself after a time frame is a setting in techstream, so normal.

running voltage at the battery should be 14 -+. MAybe down to 13.7 is ok also.

if that is normal and after driving 30 minutes then letting it sit for a day and measuring the battery again it isn't higher than 12.6 then assume the battery isn't good. And dealer jumping a battery to sell you a car is ammo and proof you need a new one.

Don't get into a situation where you're running around for days with a bad battery or you could also end up with a alternator rebuild.


the late 100s with port installed dvd players - assume those are bad, if no port or aftermarket dvd players are installed assume NAV ecu isn't shutting down until the car goes quiet, that is somewhere around the 20 minute mark with keys out and doors and door lights in a static condition, either open or closed, doesn't matter.

Then rear dome light/ any other owner installed extras.

I know that whenever I check the battery on any morning after driving the day before for any decent length of time if it doesn't read better than 12.6 I drive to walmart and they give me a new one or watch it closely because it's about to fail. the static surface charge should be around 12.8+- I could be off a tenth or so on those two numbers. (stock battery)

It's best to plug a battery tender in once every couple days. I don't think I've never had a car that I didn't have a permanently installed deltran battery plug straight on the front battery. Mine pokes out the grill a little bit by the battery on this one, like a block heater. Teks no effort to plug in, provided you have an outlet..
 
Thanks for the feedback. Old battery was at 10-12 before replacing, using the dash gauge only. Getting new battery tested tonight.

Probably doesn’t help the new battery that my daily commute is <4 miles so it’s only seen short drives since install.

And interesting on the self-lock feature. It only happens sometimes for me. May be part of the issue.
 
I will have to connect the battery to a trickle charger again, 2nd time this week, 3rd time since covid, in addition to jump-starting it 3-4 times over the past few months.

Not sure if part of the problem is my "under-sized" DieHard Platinum battery (35, 850 CCA 130 RC) that I installed 5 yrs ago, , or the wife not locking it because its in the garage, but the first 9 yrs we never had any problems.

What battery is everyone using these days? I think this time I will get the correct physical size, too.
 
Some here use 24F, some use 27F and some use a H8/49 with a spacer underneath it. In that order is also the order of the least to most capacity. Lots of us here had problems with Diehard Platinum batteries and moved on from them.
 
We just recently purchased a very well maintained LX with 150K on the clock. It has a heavy drain that is intermittent, that I have not found (I think it's the rear DVDs), and another one that I did find that seems odd.

When the truck is complete, all fuses in with an ammeter in the BAT fuse, it pulls ~150 milliamps. When you lock the truck with the key, or lock it and close the door it only pulls 23 milliamps. Very repeatable. Unlock 150, lock 23.

Security system? Immobilizer? Hoping someone knows what might happen when the doors are locked vs. unlocked that might cause this.

I think the security light flashes even when the truck is not locked but I'm not completely sure...

-Jaco
I have an 05 LX470 and don’t know where to start on my battery drain issue. Have had this for almost 3 years. Going on my 3rd battery. It seems the cold drains mine excessively in a 24 hour period. But after charge / depletion for 2 years it kills the battery. During the summer time I can get 72 plus hours with out depletion. Crazy don’t understand and would like to know what to do to fix this. It’s like As if I have forgotten to turn my head light off or something. All of the posts with solutions are nice offers but these don’t relate or fix my LX470 Battery drain issues. Lexus dealership had not a clue, Toyota will not even think about trying to fix it.
 
I have an 05 LX470 and don’t know where to start on my battery drain issue. Have had this for almost 3 years. Going on my 3rd battery. It seems the cold drains mine excessively in a 24 hour period. But after charge / depletion for 2 years it kills the battery. During the summer time I can get 72 plus hours with out depletion. Crazy don’t understand and would like to know what to do to fix this. It’s like As if I have forgotten to turn my head light off or something. All of the posts with solutions are nice offers but these don’t relate or fix my LX470 Battery drain issues. Lexus dealership had not a clue, Toyota will not even think about trying to fix it.
Start in the engine bay fuse box and test each fuse. You dont need to pull fuses to check for current draw just test each fuse across its terminals. See how here:
 

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