" Someone " told me that running a higher octane fuel during emissions testing would increase the chances of passing, any thoughts on this?
Octane ratings and emissions testing
- Thread starter RHON
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Octane ratings pretty much refer to how resistant the fuel is to burning. It takes more heat/pressure to ignite and burn the higher octane fuel. If your 60 is not passing emissions and is running rich, I can't see how a slower burning (high octane) fuel would help. Maybe somebody has tried it and can chime in with his/her results.
urban legend.
- Thread starter
- #4
So no factual bassis then, What about running E 85?
I ran a 50/50 mix of E-85 and i must say it ran like crap. It was
hard to start, and was real sluggiish on acceleration. I was told to
run the tank to almost empty, put a couple of gallons in and then
run it through the emissions center and see what happens but i never
got far enough as the truck ran so bad i could barely drive it. It also
used a couple of quarts of oil in that short amount of time, on a motor
that hasn't burnt oil in over 5000 miles, so i just bagged it and am going
to put a new converter on and see if that helps.
hard to start, and was real sluggiish on acceleration. I was told to
run the tank to almost empty, put a couple of gallons in and then
run it through the emissions center and see what happens but i never
got far enough as the truck ran so bad i could barely drive it. It also
used a couple of quarts of oil in that short amount of time, on a motor
that hasn't burnt oil in over 5000 miles, so i just bagged it and am going
to put a new converter on and see if that helps.
Read through this thread. Lots of good info on passing emissions and the various causes for failure.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=152411
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=152411
I to just got through reading the post and it was a plethera of information
good read and very helpful
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks, let me give this thread a onceover, I hav'nt gone for smog yet-but am going soon. Last year it was,
#1 rebuild carb.
#2 replace ABV
#3 replace check valve on air rail
#4 replace air pump
#5 the usual major tune-up and oil change
And for some reason just barely passed,
I've been going thru the emissions FSM , and have found that at all times and temps. the VCV for the ASV has always getting current- I'm thinking this would indicate that the sensor on the Cat is shot - any thoughts on this issue?
#1 rebuild carb.
#2 replace ABV
#3 replace check valve on air rail
#4 replace air pump
#5 the usual major tune-up and oil change
And for some reason just barely passed,
I've been going thru the emissions FSM , and have found that at all times and temps. the VCV for the ASV has always getting current- I'm thinking this would indicate that the sensor on the Cat is shot - any thoughts on this issue?
E-85 worked for me, about 2 gallons added to a 1/4 tank is sufficient. Even at this, a carburated cruiser runs like crap.After leaving smog, I filled the tank and it ran fine. But at 6200ft even with a rebuilt carb, new cat and smog pump I just can't get it lean enough. That coupled with the $8 a hour tester couldn't shift a four speed properly to save his life and it's multiple trips. I could post the numbers it ran if anyone's interested.
cool link (PDF) by Toyota. basically explains how to interpret what's coming out of your tailpipe. the 2nd link is the homelink for the first; lots of good info.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/techarticles/technicalarticles.html
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h56.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/techarticles/technicalarticles.html
