No writeup, but it's simple enough if you can envision it. Someday soon I'll take some pix of it all.
1. mount compressor and make sure that the belt lines up. I have a machinist buddy that did this for me.
2. output of compressor, I used JIC-10 fittings which are hydraulic and good for thousands of psi. Inlet has a 5/8" K&N air filter on the end of it, and has a piece of the original a/c piping pointing upwards to a convenient spot. The filter is slipped on, and will slip off so that you can squirt some ATF into the inlet pipe to oil the compressor.
3. Outlet piping can be hard piping (like on my fzj80) or you can use AN-10 braided hose, etc.
4. Manifold. I used a block of aluminum, with the JIC-10 fittings for inlet/outlet, and 1/8"NPT ports for the pressure switch. 1/4"NPT port for the airline coupler. Pressure switch is from VIAIR or Firestone, or a variety of other suppliers. Low current model is all that's needed. Small and compact. Mine turns on/off at 90/110psi. I use a jumper wire with a gator clip to power up the clutch thru the switch.
5. Tank. Optional, but highly recommended. Reduces surging, and compressor clutch cycling, which will greatly increase clutch life. Minimum recommended size is 2 gal. Tanks larger than 2gal do not increase air output.
6. Hand throttle. So that you can air up tires 3x faster at 1500 rpm instead of idle speed.
7. Flexible air hose. I use a 25-ft coil type PU hose, but a nylon one is 1/10 the price and will work fine for airing up tires. Use the same size couplers as your garage air compressor to keep everything compatible.
8. Air gauge. My gauge is simple and can be used for airing up tires, checking tire pressure, or airing down tires (if you don't have anything else). I use a clip-on air chuck, with a piece of 1/8" NPT nipple, then a 1/8" Tee with a gauge on one leg, and a 1/8" ball valve on the other. On the end of the ball valve is the air coupler male fitting.
