Northwest Area Help Needed

[mattman555]

Hey folks - I live in the Arrowhead Mall area and I'm looking for someone to help out with a C-Diff and Locker issues with my 96 TLC


Currently the lockers and the C-Diff will not engage.
I've read a lot of the posts around their common issues, and I've tried more then a few but still no luck.


I'm looking for someone who is familiar with these issues and can lend me a hand with troubleshooting.


If you are willing to lend a hand either post up or send me a PM.


Thanks!

 

[inkpot]

Hey folks - I live in the Arrowhead Mall area and I'm looking for someone to help out with a C-Diff and Locker issues with my 96 TLC


Currently the lockers and the C-Diff will not engage.
I've read a lot of the posts around their common issues, and I've tried more then a few but still no luck.


I'm looking for someone who is familiar with these issues and can lend me a hand with troubleshooting.


If you are willing to lend a hand either post up or send me a PM.


Thanks!

So, do the dash lights just continue blinking forever when you try to engage? John

 

[mattman555]

So, do the dash lights just continue blinking forever when you try to engage? John

Thanks for reaching out to me...


For Lockers - yes they blink and do not go solid


For C-Diff - when in 4LO no ABS or C-Diff light

 

[inkpot]

Thanks for reaching out to me...


For Lockers - yes they blink and do not go solid


For C-Diff - when in 4LO no ABS or C-Diff light

Hmmm, sounds like the actuator in the transfer case. Hard to get an eye on it, or even a finger, but you could have someone else activate the dash switch while you lay under the rig to see if it is running when the switch is pushed. John

 

[murf]

We saw that recently on another 80, it turned out to be the Actuator switch on the top of the tcase that wasnt activating. If the tcase doesnt engage, nothing else will (lockers, abs light, center diff light)

If Im not mistaken, the actuator on the diffs are the same as the tcase actuator. You can replace the switch (located on the top of the tcase) with one of the diff locker switches just to test it and see.

The part # in case that is the problem:

(84222-12010) SWITCH, TRANSFER IND

 

[medtro]

I would do a paper clip test to test the CDL and ABS lights circuit.

If the lights circuit is good, then test the power to CDL indicator switch and CDL indicator switch.

If the CDL indicator switch is good, then test the power to differential actuator and differential actuator.

More detail info here.

Non OEM options for the CDL indicator switch, https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/446641-replacement-84222-12010-switch.html

 

[mattman555]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I did try the Paperclip on the TCase and I did not get the ABS or CDiff lights and I'll take a peek at the post you mentioned.

I've done a bunch on the Lockers but I have not specifically played with the switches.

I think my focus is on the TCase at this point, lockers later.

 

[inkpot]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

I did try the Paperclip on the TCase and I did not get the ABS or CDiff lights and I'll take a peek at the post you mentioned.

I've done a bunch on the Lockers but I have not specifically played with the switches.

I think my focus is on the TCase at this point, lockers later.

It is pretty hard to reach much on top of the transfer case without pulling off the cross member and lowering it a couple of inches. It can come down 2-3" but watch the back of the engine head for clearance to the firewall. We do this whenever we do a low range gear swap on the transfer case. John

 

[medtro]

I did try the Paperclip on the TCase and I did not get the ABS or CDiff lights and I'll take a peek at the post you mentioned.

You may want to check if the light bulbs are still there and in good working condition.

 

[inkpot]

You may want to check if the light bulbs are still there and in good working condition.

Don't some of those automatically come on briefly when you first switch the key to Ignition IF they are working OK?

 

[mattman555]

Don't some of those automatically come on briefly when you first switch the key to Ignition IF they are working OK?

Not that I'm aware of.

You may want to check if the light bulbs are still there and in good working condition.

I do know the ABS Light is working.
First Off I didn't know it was suppose to light up when in 4LO. With that being said I noticed the CDiff light was dim and off and on dim when I was out 4wheeling the other day. When I saw this dim light I started to learn how it should work and I then started troubleshooting it.

It is pretty hard to reach much on top of the transfer case without pulling off the cross member and lowering it a couple of inches. It can come down 2-3" but watch the back of the engine head for clearance to the firewall. We do this whenever we do a low range gear swap on the transfer case. John

Thanks John, You know I might have tested the wrong switch. I thought the one I was looking for was at about 11 o'clock on towards the top drivers side. From your description it sounds like its dead on top.

Any one have a PIC of where this CDiff switch is?


Many thanks to all the replies!

 

[inkpot]

Not that I'm aware of.


FYI: Just went out and tried mine. When the key is turned to ON, the ABS and both LOCKERS do light up briefly. IF you also have the CDL switch engaged, then the CDL light does also come on.

 

[medtro]

Don't some of those automatically come on briefly when you first switch the key to Ignition IF they are working OK?

ABS light yes, but not center differential light. See the first 2 posts in the link I posted above.

 

[medtro]

FYI: Just went out and tried mine. When the key is turned to ON, the ABS and both LOCKERS do light up briefly. IF you also have the CDL switch engaged, then the CDL light does also come on.

With the CDL switch depressed, there will be no center differential light if the center differential is not locked. Your lights test valids only when everything is functional.

 

[inkpot]

With the CDL switch depressed, there will be no center differential light if the center differential is not locked. Your lights test valids only when everything is functional.

My point exactly. If his CDL system is working OK, then the light should come on when the switch in activated and the key is turn to ignition on. Just a quick and easy test that anyone can do if they have a CDL switch. John

 

[medtro]

My point exactly. If his CDL system is working OK, then the light should come on when the switch in activated and the key is turn to ignition on. Just a quick and easy test that anyone can do if they have a CDL switch. John

Copy from post #1. OP stated:

Currently the lockers and the C-Diff will not engage.

 

[medtro]

Thanks John, You know I might have tested the wrong switch. I thought the one I was looking for was at about 11 o'clock on towards the top drivers side. From your description it sounds like its dead on top.

Any one have a PIC of where this CDiff switch is?

The center diff switch is in the front housing 11 o'clock position.

 

[inkpot]

Good info in this thread. Post 45 has FSM diagram of location. John

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/68015-cdl-actuator-fun-4.html

 

[mattman555]

Good info in this thread. Post 45 has FSM diagram of location. John

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/68015-cdl-actuator-fun-4.html

Post #45 was what I needed, I'll try to find that switch soon.

thanks!

 

[mattman555]

I got under the truck tonight. Here are some things I confirmed...

1. Confirmed -- ABS Light does come on and then go off when I power up my TLC
2. Access to the CDiff Switch is on the passenger side at the 1 o'clock position
3. After using a solderless spade to close the circuit the ABS light and Diff Lock light came on.
BTW - This spade worked so much better then a paper clip, it went in very smoothly with little effort.

I'm guessing I've got a bad CDiff switch. I've got the Beck Arnley 201-1788 switch on order and I'll repleace and test soon.

if I remember correctly these are the same switches for the F/R factory lockers. If so does the close closed circuit trick work for the lockers too?

Many Thanks!