No-start situation, please advise

[HiFiGuy]

I haven't started my 1999 LC100 for a good while, probably since early last year? It's been sitting neglected due to the booster brake failing, and I replaced that, but now it needs a new caliper on the right rear because the bleed screw is rusted in place. So I went to very carefully drive it onto a trailer to get the caliper replaced at a shop and the brake lines flushed all around, and it won't turn over, although the dash seems to light up. I realized that the fob on the key wasn't lighting up, and replaced the battery in case there is a security mechanism that won't start the car with a dead key. That fob now lights up, and will lock/unlock the doors, but the car still seems unresponsive.

I do hear the brake booster failure tone, which was expected. It has been on a CTEK MUS-4.3 charger for a long time, with the battery ground terminal removed. The CTEK charger was completely off for some reason, which I didn't realize until I opened the hood to connect the ground cable to the battery, and that might have allowed the battery to get low, even though the 100 obviously didn't drain it. So I unplugged the charger and reset it, and it's been charging since Thursday. Or so I thought. Just checked it again, and it was OFF AGAIN? Not sure why. I replaced it with a CTEK 5.0, just in case, and will give it a while. The indicator was on the third dot when I closed the hood.

Anywho, in case it isn't the battery being low, what could cause it to not turn over at all? It's doing nothing. Doesn't sound like the starter is even trying to go. At this point, I can't even take it to a shop, because it won't start, and I don't know any LC-smart folks who can/will come to my house, so I was hoping for some insight here. TIA, y'all!

 

[LXfromTX]

I haven't started my 1999 LC100 for a good while, probably since early last year? It's been sitting neglected due to the booster brake failing, and I replaced that, but now it needs a new caliper on the right rear because the bleed screw is rusted in place. So I went to very carefully drive it onto a trailer to get the caliper replaced at a shop and the brake lines flushed all around, and it won't turn over, although the dash seems to light up. I realized that the fob on the key wasn't lighting up, and replaced the battery in case there is a security mechanism that won't start the car with a dead key. That fob now lights up, and will lock/unlock the doors, but the car still seems unresponsive.

I do hear the brake booster failure tone, which was expected. It has been on a CTEK MUS-4.3 charger for a long time, with the battery ground terminal removed. The CTEK charger was completely off for some reason, which I didn't realize until I opened the hood to connect the ground cable to the battery, and that might have allowed the battery to get low, even though the 100 obviously didn't drain it. So I unplugged the charger and reset it, and it's been charging since Thursday. Or so I thought. Just checked it again, and it was OFF AGAIN? Not sure why. I replaced it with a CTEK 5.0, just in case, and will give it a while. The indicator was on the third dot when I closed the hood.

Anywho, in case it isn't the battery being low, what could cause it to not turn over at all? It's doing nothing. Doesn't sound like the starter is even trying to go. At this point, I can't even take it to a shop, because it won't start, and I don't know any LC-smart folks who can/will come to my house, so I was hoping for some insight here. TIA, y'all!

You might want to do a load test on that battery. I think you can pick one up at harbor freight or pull it out and take it to an auto parts store that load tests for free.

 

[HiFiGuy]

I was thinking that, too. If the weather is reasonable, I'll drag that battery up to Advance Auto tomorrow. I don't think the battery's old, but honestly, I need to check the date on it to make sure my memory isn't faulty.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Have you tried jumping it from another vehicle? I'd rule that out before you start thinking it's a zillion other things.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Verify all grounds are good; clean and tight?

 

[HiFiGuy]

Alright, I checked the battery with the load tester at Advance Auto parts, and it tests as new, actually ever so slightly better.

I pulled the starter relay, checked for continuity according to the FSM sheet I found. Terminals 3/4 have continuity, showing about 73-74 Ohms. Terminals 1/2 are open. When 12V is applied to 3/4, terminals 1/2 show continuity, and you can hear the relay engaging. I broke a tab and cracked the cover where it holds to the main body of the relay, so I am buying a brand new one anyway, but the relay seems to test OK.

So now what? My next thought is either the starter died, or the engine is locked up. I know it can happen, but it makes no sense to me for the engine to be locked up. Last time, admittedly 2023 I think?, but it started "on the button", as the English say. I mean it showed no hesitation, turned over like I had driven it the day before, and ran well, surprisingly, since it had literally been a couple of years since I'd started it before that.

Have you tried jumping it from another vehicle? I'd rule that out before you start thinking it's a zillion other things.

I didn't, but the 750CCA battery is performing as well as new, reaching 752CCA after getting it load tested at Advance Auto with their fancy digital testing station thingy. I do hear the starter relay clicking solidly, too. so I don't think it's a lack of CCA.

Verify all grounds are good; clean and tight?

I checked and cleaned the chassis ground near the battery inside the fender, and re-worked both ground wires coming into the battery terminal, because it looked a little messy, and I am confident that they're tight. I don't know where the larger ground wire from that battery terminal goes, after it reaches the engine harness, as it's inside some split loom tubing.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Batteries can test as good and still not start a vehicle, jumping from a running vehicle is a super easy way to rule that out. If it's not that, I'd look at your starter.

 

[LXfromTX]

I'm new to the 100 series so I don't even know where the starter is but a multimeter at the starter to very it's getting 12vdc when the keys turned seems next if possible. If it's getting power but not engaging the motor then I guess you know the culprit.