No longer real time help: Flashing CEL while running.

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Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Threads
19
Messages
333
Location
Ethiopia
Yesterday I was out in the woods when after a brief pause from driving my truck dies and there is no CEL on after stopping (no CEL=no ECU power). I pop the hood and sure enough the fuse is blown, relay operates and seems ok. After a new fuse I am running fine for a few more miles and then the same thing happens. After the second new fuse I creep a few more meters and die in a mud hole. Begin to climb out on truck to attempt a fuse change while keeping dry when the door shuts on two fingers :mad: (I'm fine, could have been worse). Now I'm concerned and I left my meter at home (It's had issues, thought it would fly for a few days without one).

After towing the truck to a shady spot we went into town to get more tools and fuses. I got a cheap breaker (like you see on euro's) for troubleshooting. After plugging it in the truck runs fine, but I know these things don't fix themselves. I wiggled the fuse box & wires and the motor cut out, as soon as I let go it ran fine. So I pull the under hood fuse box and clean up the wires that I can get to, then put everything back together. It runs fine now, shaking the fuse box doesn't kill it but after running a few seconds the CEL starts flashing continuously. My buddy said that he forgot the cause but that flashing CEL's are really bad. He forgot the exact reason, read it somewhere in 80's tech but now we can't find it. From the net the best thing I can find is a rich condition that threatens the cat's.

The truck got towed back here and I am about to pull the fuse box again for a more thorough inspection of the wiring harness. The under hood part of the harness is original but the cab side of the harness (that appears to feed the ECU power) is about 5 years old. This flashing CEL thing could be somewhere obvious (FAQ?) but I missed it. My best guess is wherever the short was that pops ECU fuses I have insulated it from the ground and now it's shorting to random ECU wires. I've driven through lots of dirty water but that's common here. Last year the truck had no electrical issues getting the ECU power after my water crossing failure.

Thank you for your time, I'd rather be driving right now.
 
I thought that might be part of the issue, a short between TE1 and E1 tripping the "normal" output code. Now and then I got a 71 but even that's been gone for a while. I'm into the fuse box again right now cleaning dirty connectors and moving downstream from there with the FSM.

I was just spooked the flashing meant something really bad (that is besides a weird short). With the book this should just be time consuming.
 
I think I've got it, major red flag with the "normal" code. The wiring going into the diagnostic port is thrashed beyond reason, like rodents got into it. I'm going to take apart the connector and redo everything. I saw the same thing on a buddy's Volvo, we changed the air filter and kept blowing EFI fuses after that. The wiring at the airflow meter was on the edge when we took it apart, changing the filter shorted out tons of stuff. Now the TE1 shorting to E1 makes sense, thanks for the help!

:cheers:
 
Just to clarify the fix I had to travel down from the diagnostic connector, the crummy wires rubbing on the body were the ones that failed. The fuel pump test wire and the TE1 wire were randomly shorting between each other and the body, causing random shorts with different symptoms (sometimes "normal" code, popped fuse or both). Test run today was flawless, dirty water and everything :D.

Mods feel free to remove "real time help" from the title. The uber weird symptoms spooked the hell out of me.
 
Just for the record, on an OBD-II vehicle (all vehicles '96 and later, some before), a flashing MIL/CEL indicates a catalyst damaging misfire. You will normally also have a misfire DTC set, but not always.

Glad you found the issue on this one.
 
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