Well, I finally need to replace my CV Axles on my 2001. Came across these (AXTBIRF-TLC100IFS) and can not find any reviews from anyone about the build or quality. Nitro Gear & Axle tells me they are stronger than OEM, just looking for some reassurance or recommendation.
Nitro CV Axles? Anyone running them? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LCsanford01
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Your stock front diff will grenade itself before you break a new OEM Toyota CV.
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Agreed, but these cost far less than a new set of OEM. Just seeing if they are worth the time and effort.
It’s odd they don’t recommend off road use with them
They probably don't handle the angles OEM Toyota axles do.
And as someone who tried the reman axle thing from several different places, I'm done with them, even though I do my own work. OEM for the last one I needed, and the other one will be OEM when it goes. Then I'll forget about them for another 200k miles. They should outlive me.
anyone try CVJ before? they claim OEM parts and a higher angled inner boot for lifted vehicles
www.cvjreman.com
9534 TR - CVJ Axles
LIFTED- MODERATE ANGLES BEST ✶✶✶✶✶ 9534 TR $342.00 each +$220.00 core deposit each Toyota Steel OEM Toyota Plastic Outer CV Boot Higher Angle Red Silicone Inner Boot Closest to OEM Toyota for lifted applications Same Right and Left; One (1) single axle
www.cvjreman.com
anyone try CVJ before? they claim OEM parts and a higher angled inner boot for lifted vehicles
9534 TR - CVJ Axles
LIFTED- MODERATE ANGLES BEST ✶✶✶✶✶ 9534 TR $342.00 each +$220.00 core deposit each Toyota Steel OEM Toyota Plastic Outer CV Boot Higher Angle Red Silicone Inner Boot Closest to OEM Toyota for lifted applications Same Right and Left; One (1) single axle
Check the below out.
Search results for query: cvj
forum.ih8mud.com
I'd go OEM CVs no matter what. I'll use non-Toyota parts (555) and reman parts in many other areas (tie rod ends, LBJs, UCAs, etc.). But, for the CVs, I'll only use OEM Toyota. Buy once, cry once. With new OEM, you can be assured that you're getting "unused" splines. Pair with new OEM flanges and you should be good to go for another 200k or 20 years. With remans, you never know truly what you are getting and I don't like doing the CV job more than once 
IMO, spending a little more on these pays off in the long run. Having said that, many run reman axles and seem pleased.
IMO, spending a little more on these pays off in the long run. Having said that, many run reman axles and seem pleased.
That, good sir, is incorrect. I can say from experience on Saturday in Moab when we did a trail repair on Poison Spider of my blown front CV. It was a new Toyota part put in about 1500 miles ago. All tolerances when I installed it were confirmed to be correct and the preload was set to what Toyota recommends. I also replaced the hub flange and cone washers.
It was quite fun to try Golden Spike with either an open diff 2wd, locked rear 2wd or locked front and rear 3wd...
Do you have any pictures of the failure and or trail repair? Did you just leave the end of the shaft in the diff and disassemble the axle? Front diff failures are far more common than CV's on the 100 series, though just about anything can break.
It broke on PSM and you still tried to drive Golden Spike? Did you eventually turn around and go back out PSM?
See if you can figure out where it failed
Unfortunately, it also took out my passenger speed sensor... Bummer.
Here is a shot at the diff. There is a c clip at the end of the cups that hold everything in. You can just remove that and the shaft and bearings will just slide out. Make sure to wipe out all of the grease so it doesn't sling all over the truck and pollute the trail.
Also, I might have tapped my rear muffler a few times....
Anything can fail if you hit it hard enough on a rock.See if you can figure out where it failed
View attachment 1970887
Here is a shot at the diff. There is a c clip at the end of the cups that hold everything in. You can just remove that and the shaft and bearings will just slide out. Make sure to wipe out all of the grease so it doesn't sling all over the truck and pollute the trail.
View attachment 1970890
Also, I might have tapped my rear muffler a few times....
View attachment 1970891
I had it at full lock going up an obstacle. I gave it a bit too much gas and the breakage was the result. Too much gas combined with near full lock was my mistake and a learning opportunity. Oh well and no big deal. It is time to find another CV.
The CV break happened towards the end of Poison Spider before it turns onto Golden Spike. I then went forward and completed Golden Spike and also Gold Bar Rim. It was a ton of fun and I will totally do it again! That final obstacle on Gold Bar Rim was a huge. Other than when I broke my CV, the final obstacle was the only time I had to get winched up while at Cruise Moab.
To the OP, I will probably just bite the bullet and buy a new Toyota CV. It stings, but it is the only way to ensure that you are getting a good CV within factory tolerances. If you are paying for someone else to do the install then going with a part that should last the longest makes the most sense to me. You can find a new Toyota front drive shaft for about $375 shipped.
