I have a bone-stock '78 FJ40. I replaced a rear brake drum with a genuine Toyota drum about 10 years ago.
I have owned the truck 28 years and know most of its history.
I just did a brake job with new shoes and 2 new wheel cylinders. I do have the factory paper gaskets installed over the axle flange ends.
This particular 'newer' brake drum, when you tighten the lug nuts (wheels on or off), locks up the hub/wheel. The wheel is locked up pretty solidly, but you can drive away (and it will get hot).
I swapped the brake drums, side-for-side, and the other (old, OEM drum) works fine on both sides. The newer OEM Toyota drum locks up both sides, regardless of shoe adjustment. Any ideas? Both drums appear the same (physically), and have the interlocking 'WW' casting mark. I can see no scrape marks due to rubbing anywhere. I even put indicator paint on likely rubbing areas, and none of it has come off. I also chamfered the brake shoe edges, in case that was it. I'm at a loss.
Thanks - Steve
I have owned the truck 28 years and know most of its history.
I just did a brake job with new shoes and 2 new wheel cylinders. I do have the factory paper gaskets installed over the axle flange ends.
This particular 'newer' brake drum, when you tighten the lug nuts (wheels on or off), locks up the hub/wheel. The wheel is locked up pretty solidly, but you can drive away (and it will get hot).
I swapped the brake drums, side-for-side, and the other (old, OEM drum) works fine on both sides. The newer OEM Toyota drum locks up both sides, regardless of shoe adjustment. Any ideas? Both drums appear the same (physically), and have the interlocking 'WW' casting mark. I can see no scrape marks due to rubbing anywhere. I even put indicator paint on likely rubbing areas, and none of it has come off. I also chamfered the brake shoe edges, in case that was it. I'm at a loss.
Thanks - Steve