Newbie Introduction / Purchase challenges / Ignorance Acknowledgement
- Thread starter BlackLab
- Start date
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You call THAT snow?...
Once I figure out how to get the snow cleared from my front door maybe I'll take a pic for ya!
-G
- Thread starter
- #68
I'm in for 10k. Car has 128k, 2004. Since seemed like great deal I was able to justify all this work. So after I am up to spec with all maintenance and lift, wheels, tires, calipers, and rotors, new exhaust be in for about 18k. Ready to sail for next ten years.....maybe longer I hope, based on some ive seen here
- Thread starter
- #69
You call THAT snow?...
Once I figure out how to get the snow cleared from my front door maybe I'll take a pic for ya!
-G
take a LC photo out your window for cold weather fun post
- Thread starter
- #71
Hello Mudsters,
Well i am going to have the LC back in the next few days and i look forward to posting about it. To recap the things so far are:
1) timing belt, water pump, hoses, tstat etc (forum recommendation)
2) replacement of both cats and Borla exhaust addition
3) 2.5 ome lift, with upper control arms
4) new 18 wheels with 285/65 tires, went with Nitto G2's
5) hitch addition
6) new power stop rotors and all new calipers
7) coolant, steering, other flushes, differentials, etc
8) A BRAND SPANKING NEW ANTENNA, HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHA
There were some codes being thrown at the beginning of this that may go away now that work is done, we will see. Here is something that came up I would like your thoughts on. Mechanic says need new body bushings. This sent me into a tizzy about whether i should body lift. I read through all the threads and since I am running 33's with a 2.5 dont see that i need to lift for any reason. Is there any benefit whatsoever that i am missing here? If not I would like the best kit recommendation for replacing the body bushings. I really appreciate your thoughts and advice so far on this forum.
Well i am going to have the LC back in the next few days and i look forward to posting about it. To recap the things so far are:
1) timing belt, water pump, hoses, tstat etc (forum recommendation)
2) replacement of both cats and Borla exhaust addition
3) 2.5 ome lift, with upper control arms
4) new 18 wheels with 285/65 tires, went with Nitto G2's
5) hitch addition
6) new power stop rotors and all new calipers
7) coolant, steering, other flushes, differentials, etc
8) A BRAND SPANKING NEW ANTENNA, HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHA
There were some codes being thrown at the beginning of this that may go away now that work is done, we will see. Here is something that came up I would like your thoughts on. Mechanic says need new body bushings. This sent me into a tizzy about whether i should body lift. I read through all the threads and since I am running 33's with a 2.5 dont see that i need to lift for any reason. Is there any benefit whatsoever that i am missing here? If not I would like the best kit recommendation for replacing the body bushings. I really appreciate your thoughts and advice so far on this forum.
Jealous of #8....
I bought a OEM replacement mast and some new OEM fender clips and if the weather gets as warm as it's supposed to this weekend I'm going to do some "hardcore DIY tech" on mine!
-G
You will love your Hundy. Mines a 2005, with 130k miles. You can see by my signature that I had Slee do the lift and the rock sliders, got 275/70/18 BFG AT/KO's. Mine lived its life in Vegas so no rust. It would be interesting for you to document for other members your efforts in combating and dealing with your rust issues with a truck that spent 10 years in New York. Knowledge is power and it might help others that are looking at buying. Enjoy and keep us posted.
- Thread starter
- #75
Man, I love your cruiser. Nice. I will get mine back this week, cannot wait. I will do a write up once i get it back, with pics. I hope i dont regret going with 285/65's. I like the sizing of those tires on yours. time will tell. no one posted about the body bushings kit....was hoping someone might have a good rec.
- Thread starter
- #76
Okay so I went to visit LC today and got preliminary shots. not great ones but just quick while i was there. All mentioned work is done and we are now working our way through couple of codes it was throwing. Alignment will be done today so maybe they dont even show up. ABS was one and I hope it is something minor like you guys have mentioned here. anyway, here are couple photos:
View attachment 1043679
View attachment 1043679
- Thread starter
- #77
Okay so I went to visit the LC at the garage today. Its almost done. Now just needs alignment and some checking into some codes it was throwing. The ABS code and couple others that I am hoping will go away or be minor things as suggested on this forum. Here are some pics that are very preliminary and in the rain but I am ecstatic about how it has turned out.
Looks awesome! Congrats! Now go get it dirty.
- Thread starter
- #79
THE RUST REPLY
I opted to buy my car with rust and am putting significant money into it and want it to last. I have now read through every rust thread here and elsewhere and have decided to go with the Krown application once a year. I looked into do it yourself stuff and just didnt like what was there, and it seems like one of those activities that would never end once started and that I am quite capable of obsessively overdoing.
I looked into Ziebarts and the undercoating. The wanted 700 dollars to sand away rust, apply rust eliminator to bond it together, and then do undercoating. I even went to the shop and met them and had them explain what they would do, and they came down to 500 bucks. The problem I have with that is the possibility of missed spots (everyone says is a surety) and that water that gets trapped behind it will do damage. I felt slightly smarmey at the shop, and wondered if nearby dealership salesman were playing cards upstairs.
Since Krown was also a big discussion topic, I looked into them. I also just had a feeling that the farther north a rust associated franchise was headquartered might mean better knowledge. The oil based and movement oriented application seems more technologically savvy. It amoebas into hard to reach places, and globs back into shape if disturbed, and breathes to allow water out. This is only 129.99, but need to do it once a year. Since i live in Virginia the nearest one is Mechanicsburg, PA, 89 miles away. I dont care and will enjoy the ride and play golf or have lunch there...make it a field trip.
The clincher was when i spoke to Brad, the franchisee, and he talked about rust with for awhile. He had the choice of maybe a Ziebarts or Krown when he opened his business. He really believed the technology with the Krown applications was much more modern and fundamentally the correct way to deal with rust. He also pointed out that Ziebarts has really had to branch out into many more things to make money ie-tinting, remote ignitions, etc etc. That is a good point.
I am going to use Krown this year and will report in after i go.
Sounds like the Krown is the way to go. On the codes buy a new toyota gas cap. Old ones can throw codes, cheap insurance. Beautiful rig enjoy.
