Jerry Springer drama
Newbie 73 FJ 40 build
- Thread starter Toast
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
No. Nobody has started fighting yet 
Welcome back Toast, I keep checking on this thread for updates 
It's been a good build, Glad you stuck in there. I didn't offer up any advice cause i just didn't know the answers to your questions.
Just rember that not all mud members are smart a$$es like jerry springer guy
Good luck with the rest of your build, looking forward to more updates
and
,Ben
It's been a good build, Glad you stuck in there. I didn't offer up any advice cause i just didn't know the answers to your questions.
Just rember that not all mud members are smart a$$es like jerry springer guy
Good luck with the rest of your build, looking forward to more updates
and,Ben
I'm pumped you are getting good help from friends to keep your project rolling.Not everyone has a plasma and a welder or all the necessary tools,so I applaud the guys that kicked in to help a brother out.But it did seem a little dramatic the way you were asking for help.Either way good luck my Cruiser friend
and to the last post
and to the last post
I'm pumped you are getting good help from friends to keep your project rolling.Not everyone has a plasma and a welder or all the necessary tools,so I applaud the guys that kicked in to help a brother out.But it did seem a little dramatic the way you were asking for help.Either way good luck my Cruiser friend
I'm sorry Toast for the slight thread hijack BUT.....
SAWTOOTH, That should have been your first post. Not that jerry springer garbage, I.M.H.O.
What where you doing at his age? Probably not a "frame off".
I just have the oppinion that MUD should be a place for support and help and to meet new people with a common intrest. NOT to be a wise A$$. But i guess thats just my thoughts (sadly).
Thank you for the positive post this time
, and thank you for the mud welcome ************So now i guess we can officially call it a "jerry springer thread"
and to all, Ben
- Thread starter
- #86
Hey thanks nor-cal cruiser! I didn't realize that people out there were actually watching me . Thanks for the support and don't worry, hijack away...haha. Sawtooth, I was a bit put off by the comment but its all good. Im really used to getting **** from friends and such. Thanks for the redemption post though, very encouraging. I have to say that I did get a little dramatic there but I was just sooooo frustrated, I mean I have literally put every penny and free second into my cruiser and I was so pissed that I couldnt get that right. So anyways, I painted my brackets and pulleys the other day and threw them on. They look good but i really should have done them with something other than rattlecan paint. That stuff is super soft and comes off easy . But progress is progress is progress is progress . I missed a bracket, as you can see. I havnt decided what to do yet. You see, I want to run a york compressor for on board air purposes later down the road and i might use the un-painted bracket to tie it in with pulleys. anyone have any ideas??? Thanks again nor-cal cruiser for the support. Ive been busy lately so sadly this is the only progress, going to Stockton tomorrow with a couple of cruiser heads to deliver a 100% zero rust 40 to Georg from Valley Hybrids (orange fj45)...should be fun
. Thanks for the support and don't worry, hijack away...haha. Sawtooth, I was a bit put off by the comment but its all good. Im really used to getting **** from friends and such. Thanks for the redemption post though, very encouraging. I have to say that I did get a little dramatic there but I was just sooooo frustrated, I mean I have literally put every penny and free second into my cruiser and I was so pissed that I couldnt get that right. So anyways, I painted my brackets and pulleys the other day and threw them on. They look good but i really should have done them with something other than rattlecan paint. That stuff is super soft and comes off easy . But progress is progress is progress is progress . I missed a bracket, as you can see. I havnt decided what to do yet. You see, I want to run a york compressor for on board air purposes later down the road and i might use the un-painted bracket to tie it in with pulleys. anyone have any ideas??? Thanks again nor-cal cruiser for the support. Ive been busy lately so sadly this is the only progress, going to Stockton tomorrow with a couple of cruiser heads to deliver a 100% zero rust 40 to Georg from Valley Hybrids (orange fj45)...should be fun
- Thread starter
- #87
So, ive spent the past few days buttoning up my engine and such. Also picked up some 88 4runner exhaust studs to go into the backside of my T-case, pretty sweet how toyota uses the same size bolts though out the years. Then today I started that horrible realization that half my **** is MIA. I found most of everything except a few nuts. One being my spline shaft nut for my extended spline shaft from AA. Turns out that the nut from the stock manual steering box is a fit. Gotta love Toyota! Here's where im at...
![IMG958389[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img958389-1-webp.592038/ "IMG958389[1].webp")
![IMG959720[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img959720-1-webp.592039/ "IMG959720[1].webp")
I found most of everything except a few nuts. One being my spline shaft nut for my extended spline shaft from AA. Turns out that the nut from the stock manual steering box is a fit. Gotta love Toyota! Here's where im at...
- Thread starter
- #88
So got my exhaust manifolds back on today. Painted them with POR manifold paint... supposed to be good up to 1400 degrees F and be permanent, well see. Threw some stainless hardware on there and called it good. Looks **** good if you ask me.
- Thread starter
- #89
So this is how i originally routed my exhaust. It worked fine, but now since i went with the sm420 im gonna have to redo it again. The driver side is fine and im going to leave it alone, its the pesky psngr side thats the pain. Ive searched exhaust ideas and find very few pics, just alot of ramble...... TALK IS CHEAP PEOPLE!!! If you haven't noticed by now but my entire thread is mostly pics because like the saying goes.... a pic is worth a thousand words!!!! Anyways back on track, I wanted some FRESH ideas for my exhaust route without the classic, "Have you seen our lovely search feature here on mud yet?" or "Try the search button." So, would me routing it under the front nose cone be ok to do again? Keep in mind that i do intend on do a SOA eventually.
If you haven't noticed by now but my entire thread is mostly pics because like the saying goes.... a pic is worth a thousand words!!!! Anyways back on track, I wanted some FRESH ideas for my exhaust route without the classic, "Have you seen our lovely search feature here on mud yet?" or "Try the search button." So, would me routing it under the front nose cone be ok to do again? Keep in mind that i do intend on do a SOA eventually.
- Thread starter
- #90
There might be enough room for me to squeeze by here. thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #91
On another note i finally buttoned up the back of my t-case using these sweet exhaust studs i mentioned earlier
And..... I finally cleaned up my front 60 axle for a cut and turn. Took me an entire solid hour of grinding....sore fingers
And..... I finally cleaned up my front 60 axle for a cut and turn. Took me an entire solid hour of grinding....sore fingers
are you dumping the exaust out the rear or the side in front of the tire? You run in around the the front of the oil pan and y into a single but than you might an oil cooler.
looking good!
- Thread starter
- #94
Didnt do much today, sort of trying to figure out which way to go with my tub. Should I blast it down and restore it or just do the minimal and run it as is until i can find a better tub....what to do, what to do.... oh almost forgot, painted my saginaw box
Hey Toast, Can you post some good pics of your Tub and what exactly your dealing with? Any chance you can get your hands on a better camera for some higher quality pics? Your pics are ok, but HQ pics makes it easier to see some critical details.
What I did with my tub was to send it off to the sand blaster. It cost me nearly 500.00 for that. Removing the bed liner is not going to be an easy job! Ask around or do a search about how to do this. Brake fluid might make it peel easily if its a cheap liner. I would remove the bed liner before you send it off to the blaster since most places charge for time and materials. Blasting that liner could be really tough. After my tub came back from the blaster I sprayed a thin coat of epoxy primer to stop flash rusting on the bare metal while I was working on it. I then went to town and started replacing panels. Of course brace everything before you remove panels. Just weld in some angle iron around the rear tailgate and around the door openings. If I had to do this over again I would do a few things differently.
1. I would do all my panel replacement and welding before I sent it off to the blaster. This allows you to not worry about flash rust or greasy fingerprints on your tub. Also sandblasting the welds makes it real nice and clean before you spray it with primer. The results are that you get your tub back nice and clean and ready to prime with an epoxy primer. Just clean it first with a metal prep to remove all the dust from sand blasting. I gave it a good wash with the air gun first then cleaned it with metal prep and then tac cloth. This results in the cleanest possible surface to spray your epoxy primer on.
2. I tried to take some short cuts by not removing the brackets in the wheel wells. The wheel well supports as well as the brackets for the captured nuts for the jump seats as well as any roll cage brackets. There is massive rust under those. I later removed them and boy am I glad I did. Remember to use your pot blaster to clean any seams after you remove a panel. For example: between the rear quarters and the wheel wells there will be rust. Blast it and prime it with a weld thru primer.
3. Pin holes in panels and on the floors. There is a product that you can buy from eastwood or probably sold at welders supply. A copper spoon will help you fill these holes . There is also a a kit from east wood :
Butt Weld Clamps & Backers Kit - Welding Clamps & Accessories - Eastwood
I think this kit would make welding sheet metal a hell of a lot easier. when you cut out a panel the remaining lip tends to bend in slightly and these clamps will keep the panels even and make better welds with less grinding. The copper backing plate will help with the burn through.
4. Consider Time V.S. Money: I have a lot of time and about 1200.00 in panels into my tub not to mention a bunch of money in paint, supplies, filler,tools etc. Probably at least 2000.00 plus 500.00 for sand blasting. As for how much time? Hard to say, but it took me 6 months to finish it. I did take a 3 month break. So at least 3 months of working on it 2 to 3 days a week with no help.
So a new tub would be at least 6000.00 if you went with a steel tub for a price comparison. Since your rig isn't a purist dream
I would consider an Aluminum tub. You would be better off with time and money in the long run. I would spend my time picking up some extra work /shifts on the side if your job allows to help save. That's just me and my Rig is more of a stock rig with a few exceptions.. That's why I chose to restore the tub. However the condition of your tub will be a major consideration of what to do. If its not bad then try to restore it. Oh and one more thing to consider when you look at my time frame is that I had to teach myself how to weld while doing this. So it might be a lot less of a challenge for you.
Brian
1. I would do all my panel replacement and welding before I sent it off to the blaster. This allows you to not worry about flash rust or greasy fingerprints on your tub. Also sandblasting the welds makes it real nice and clean before you spray it with primer. The results are that you get your tub back nice and clean and ready to prime with an epoxy primer. Just clean it first with a metal prep to remove all the dust from sand blasting. I gave it a good wash with the air gun first then cleaned it with metal prep and then tac cloth. This results in the cleanest possible surface to spray your epoxy primer on.
2. I tried to take some short cuts by not removing the brackets in the wheel wells. The wheel well supports as well as the brackets for the captured nuts for the jump seats as well as any roll cage brackets. There is massive rust under those. I later removed them and boy am I glad I did. Remember to use your pot blaster to clean any seams after you remove a panel. For example: between the rear quarters and the wheel wells there will be rust. Blast it and prime it with a weld thru primer.
3. Pin holes in panels and on the floors. There is a product that you can buy from eastwood or probably sold at welders supply. A copper spoon will help you fill these holes . There is also a a kit from east wood :
Butt Weld Clamps & Backers Kit - Welding Clamps & Accessories - Eastwood
I think this kit would make welding sheet metal a hell of a lot easier. when you cut out a panel the remaining lip tends to bend in slightly and these clamps will keep the panels even and make better welds with less grinding. The copper backing plate will help with the burn through.
4. Consider Time V.S. Money: I have a lot of time and about 1200.00 in panels into my tub not to mention a bunch of money in paint, supplies, filler,tools etc. Probably at least 2000.00 plus 500.00 for sand blasting. As for how much time? Hard to say, but it took me 6 months to finish it. I did take a 3 month break. So at least 3 months of working on it 2 to 3 days a week with no help.
So a new tub would be at least 6000.00 if you went with a steel tub for a price comparison. Since your rig isn't a purist dream I would consider an Aluminum tub. You would be better off with time and money in the long run. I would spend my time picking up some extra work /shifts on the side if your job allows to help save. That's just me and my Rig is more of a stock rig with a few exceptions.. That's why I chose to restore the tub. However the condition of your tub will be a major consideration of what to do. If its not bad then try to restore it. Oh and one more thing to consider when you look at my time frame is that I had to teach myself how to weld while doing this. So it might be a lot less of a challenge for you.Brian
Here is a few pics to compare your tub to. I replaced
Both rear quarter panels
Rear seal
Both outside rockers
One inside rocker
I should have replaced both wheel wells and the front floor. Basically i had bad rust on the entire tub and i should have just bought a new tub and picked up a bunch of overtime at work, but now I am a pro at sheet metal welding
Both rear quarter panels
Rear seal
Both outside rockers
One inside rocker
I should have replaced both wheel wells and the front floor. Basically i had bad rust on the entire tub and i should have just bought a new tub and picked up a bunch of overtime at work, but now I am a pro at sheet metal welding
- Thread starter
- #98
Ok, I will try and get some good pics of my tub up soon. Thank you for all your support! much appreciated
- Thread starter
- #99
Back in action! So Ive been lagging on my build big time but finally got my housing cut and turned along with having my perches, gussets, shock tabs, truss and diff armor welded on. Front axle looks amazing!
Amen brother!
