newb with 2003 gx470 , advice requested , secondary vehicle/toy (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 22, 2023
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Location
Arkansas
Just bought an 03 gx470. Very close to 300k miles. Really clean on the outside, virtually zero rust on the frame. Inside needs detailed, but not concerned. Recently my son and I searched for gx vs 4runner v8. Found him a pretty clean 2004 4runner 4wd 240k miles for what we thought was a reasonable price; so that's what got me looking. We did ( paid shop) the timing belt /water pump on his and that's the first thing on my list , really before I drive it much. I was going to get the aisin belt kit with fan clutch bracket from amazon, also the crank seals, planning on replacing all the pulleys and belt on the front as well. I think it has a slight coolant leak around the oil cooler. Air ride doesn't work, but it sounds like the compressor is working. I found aftermarket bags on amazon for like $130/set. Here's my list of questions.
1: What all to replace on front of engine when timing belt/water pump/seals , do I replace power steering pump if it's working fine? reservoir is definitely stained,
2: get rid of air ride or replace bags? I'm going to take it off road, but I'm not rock crawling

Thanks Tw

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Super-clean GX, especially with so many miles. Have some suggestions below:

1. Get the Aisin TB/WP kit from Rock Auto, just because Amazon has been so sketchy with fake parts. Regarding things to replace, the only accessory that really goes out in these is the alternator. It's also super-easy to replace when you have the fan and radiator out to do the TB/WP, and much harder to replace if those parts aren't removed. I'd use a reman Denso alternator (also easy to get on Rock Auto). The radiator is also a known failure point on these, so I'd go ahead and replace it too with 300K on the clock. You can also go ahead and replace all of the drive belts, coolant hoses, heater hoses, and the thermostat as long as you have things apart (none of those parts are too expensive if you do a big Rock Auto purchase and get Denso/Aisin/Gates stuff). I also personally like the Toyota pink 50/50 coolant and buy it from my local dealer.

2. The crank seals on these really don't go out. Sometimes the cam seals and rear main seals can leak, but IMO I'd just put a bottle of ATP AT-205 seal conditioner in at the next oil change and leave the seals alone. Unless they are really gushing it's quite a bit of effort to replace them and easy to mess something else up along the way.

3. Regarding coils vs. bags, most people who have converted to coils (including me) have never looked back. That said $130/set is pretty darn cheap for air bags, and could be a decent stop-gap if you are going to lift the GX a little ways down the road. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't gamble on cheap airbags and would either buy a better kit (if you aren't going to lift) or just do the coil conversion now.
 
Super-clean GX, especially with so many miles. Have some suggestions below:

1. Get the Aisin TB/WP kit from Rock Auto, just because Amazon has been so sketchy with fake parts. Regarding things to replace, the only accessory that really goes out in these is the alternator. It's also super-easy to replace when you have the fan and radiator out to do the TB/WP, and much harder to replace if those parts aren't removed. I'd use a reman Denso alternator (also easy to get on Rock Auto). The radiator is also a known failure point on these, so I'd go ahead and replace it too with 300K on the clock. You can also go ahead and replace all of the drive belts, coolant hoses, heater hoses, and the thermostat as long as you have things apart (none of those parts are too expensive if you do a big Rock Auto purchase and get Denso/Aisin/Gates stuff). I also personally like the Toyota pink 50/50 coolant and buy it from my local dealer.

2. The crank seals on these really don't go out. Sometimes the cam seals and rear main seals can leak, but IMO I'd just put a bottle of ATP AT-205 seal conditioner in at the next oil change and leave the seals alone. Unless they are really gushing it's quite a bit of effort to replace them and easy to mess something else up along the way.

3. Regarding coils vs. bags, most people who have converted to coils (including me) have never looked back. That said $130/set is pretty darn cheap for air bags, and could be a decent stop-gap if you are going to lift the GX a little ways down the road. Otherwise, I probably wouldn't gamble on cheap airbags and would either buy a better kit (if you aren't going to lift) or just do the coil conversion now.
Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I'm kind of relieved that you said that about the crank seals, because we did not do that on the 4runner. Suspension can wait until i get the drivetrain situated. I'm guessing this car has never been offroad, except for me driving around my pasture( it is terraced to be fair). I think I should get the fan clutch bracket too since it has a non servicable bearing. My brother in law is a mechanical engineer and he doesn't replace anything until it breaks; but he's also a former diesel mechanic and retired seabee and likes working on stuff. Does anyone know if you can replace the sealed bearings in the pulleys ?
 
👆what Rednexus said.

Regarding pulleys, I would say the juice ain't worth the squeeze changing pulley bearings. Pulleys are cheap (and should be included in any quality kit anyway)

Also, if you choose coil conversion now, you're gonna need to be ready to lift. Otherwise, you'll end up buying 3 different rear spring sets when you keep changing your mind on lift hieght. Ask me how i know! Lol.

Welcome, and nice rig!

Cheers 🍻
 
👆what Rednexus said.

Regarding pulleys, I would say the juice ain't worth the squeeze changing pulley bearings. Pulleys are cheap (and should be included in any quality kit anyway)

Also, if you choose coil conversion now, you're gonna need to be ready to lift. Otherwise, you'll end up buying 3 different rear spring sets when you keep changing your mind on lift hieght. Ask me how i know! Lol.

Welcome, and nice rig!

Cheers 🍻
Ha, I love that saying about the juice, I bought a bunch of bearings for an old f350 I had years ago and only changed 1 as far as I can recall. Probably couldn't find the 10 others I bought. I looked on rock auto and I found it difficult to navigate. I found the aisin timing belt/water pump kit and reman denso alt. Couldn't find the fan clutch bracket
 
Maybe it's called a " fan pulley bracket"? I'll get a parts blow up and replace everrthing that spins on the front. What about power steering pump? is it hard to change on it's own
 
I don't think I've ever heard of a power steering pump or pulley bearing going out on one of these. IMO I'd leave both alone.
 
I don't think I've ever heard of a power steering pump or pulley bearing going out on one of these. IMO I'd leave both alone.
I'll probably get the fan clutch pulley bracket, and belt tensioner and idler pulley with a new serpentine belt. I'm leary of reman alternators, but it looks like it wouldn't be fun to change. I've read a lot of bad reviews on aftermarket ps pumps, and a new toyota one is pricey. Is ps pump reasonable to change when the car is back together? Mine works fine with no noise. I do have a slight pulley squeak, that's why i'm changing most
 
The only really "hard" things on these to replace is the starter (under the intake manifold - and does go out fairly often), the alternator (but only if you don't pull the radiator/fan), and the exhaust manifolds/headers (which always crack and cause an annoying exhaust leak). Pretty much everything else on the 2UZ either doesn't break or is very easy to fix if it does. I don't think new alternators are available for these, but the OEM alternator is a Denso, so a Denso reman should be just as good as new.

I'm honestly not sure how hard the PS pump is to replace on these, but again, they just aren't known for failing, even for rigs that get up in the 500K mile mark. I'd just flush the PS fluid and add a in-line Magnefine filer.
 
The only really "hard" things on these to replace is the starter (under the intake manifold - and does go out fairly often), the alternator (but only if you don't pull the radiator/fan), and the exhaust manifolds/headers (which always crack and cause an annoying exhaust leak). Pretty much everything else on the 2UZ either doesn't break or is very easy to fix if it does. I don't think new alternators are available for these, but the OEM alternator is a Denso, so a Denso reman should be just as good as new.

I'm honestly not sure how hard the PS pump is to replace on these, but again, they just aren't known for failing, even for rigs that get up in the 500K mile mark. I'd just flush the PS fluid and add a in-line Magnefine filer.
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? The starter is under the intake?Holy Moly that seems nuts. I've been reading about these for a few months; I knew about the manifolds cracking, but neither mine or my sons are as far as I can hear. If mine does it, I would probably go headers, but that also is pricey. I live in Arkansas and I doubt we'll have emissions inspections in my life. My son lives in Denver and is pretty much stuck with stock exhaust I guess. I got my gx for $4900, but it looks like I'm going to be spending several thousand more getting it ready. I've had to jeep TJ's ( a 97 se 4cylinder and a 2003 Rubicon) . I really liked the rubicon off road, and it was reliable for the 3-4 years I had it, but this gx with 300k is so much nicer to drive on the highway. And it will do everything I need it to do off road>
 
Didn't go with radiator, surely I can change that on my own when it goes? I forgot the thermostat and housing. I think my oil cooler gasket is seeping coolant. Anything I'm missing?

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Radiators on these usually end up cracking at the plastic tanks - they'll leave you by the side of the road. At 300K yours may have already been replaced though. But it's very easy to do it at the same time as the TB/WP as it has to come out anyway, and they aren't very expensive.
 
Radiators on these usually end up cracking at the plastic tanks - they'll leave you by the side of the road. At 300K yours may have already been replaced though. But it's very easy to do it at the same time as the TB/WP as it has to come out anyway, and they aren't very expensive.
Well hell, I had that and hoses in my cart and deleted. I guess an extra day waiting on parts won't kill me. I guess I'd like to make this a one and done ( for a while) on the front of the engine.
 
Got tags and insurance yesterday. Weld nuts were stripped out in the tailgate, I had to pull the back panel and put a pair of vise grips on from the inside. I didn't JB weld them or replace, so I guess my tags are semi permanent. I got my denso radiator from Summit, Rockauto was going to charge $50 shipping for radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Hopefully going with summit was not a mistake
 
Got tags and insurance yesterday. Weld nuts were stripped out in the tailgate, I had to pull the back panel and put a pair of vise grips on from the inside. I didn't JB weld them or replace, so I guess my tags are semi permanent. I got my denso radiator from Summit, Rockauto was going to charge $50 shipping for radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Hopefully going with summit was not a mistake
Got it scheduled to be serviced next week. Surely heater hose can be purchased by the foot? I’m trying to make sure I have everything
 
You can buy heater hose by the foot, but the GX hoses are molded so it would be easier to get a molded replacement rather than universal hose (which may be kind of floppy). I picked mine up from Rock Auto (Gates brand) for something like $13-14 a piece. You can also get them at O'Reilly's. You'll probably want replacement hose clamps as well - I always have problems with OEM constant tension clamps and usually replace them with Ideal SS worm gear clamps from the hardware store. As mentioned earlier, I recommend Toyota pink 50/50 coolant from the dealer, although you could probably use Valvoline Zerex for Toyotas if you don't have a dealer nearby.

Summit racing is great; I've gotten lots of stuff from them over 20+ years. They usually have good prices on stock replacement parts (sometimes beating Rock Auto) and usually have free shipping. My rock sliders came from them ($100 cheaper on shipping that anywhere else); I've also gotten gear oil (hard-to-find Mobil Delvac), struts for our old Outback, and CV boot kits. When I broke the clamp pliers in their CV boot kit they gave me a refund over the phone in 5 minutes.
 
You can buy heater hose by the foot, but the GX hoses are molded so it would be easier to get a molded replacement rather than universal hose (which may be kind of floppy). I picked mine up from Rock Auto (Gates brand) for something like $13-14 a piece. You can also get them at O'Reilly's. You'll probably want replacement hose clamps as well - I always have problems with OEM constant tension clamps and usually replace them with Ideal SS worm gear clamps from the hardware store. As mentioned earlier, I recommend Toyota pink 50/50 coolant from the dealer, although you could probably use Valvoline Zerex for Toyotas if you don't have a dealer nearby.

Summit racing is great; I've gotten lots of stuff from them over 20+ years. They usually have good prices on stock replacement parts (sometimes beating Rock Auto) and usually have free shipping. My rock sliders came from them ($100 cheaper on shipping that anywhere else); I've also gotten gear oil (hard-to-find Mobil Delvac), struts for our old Outback, and CV boot kits. When I broke the clamp pliers in their CV boot kit they gave me a refund over the phone in 5 minutes.
Thanks again, picking up Gates radiator hoses from Oreilly. I'll check for the heater hose too. Do you know what the part name is called by chance. When I looked earlier I think I was looking at the ones near the firewall. Toyota dealer is a mile from my house.
 
Thanks again, picking up Gates radiator hoses from Oreilly. I'll check for the heater hose too. Do you know what the part name is called by chance. When I looked earlier I think I was looking at the ones near the firewall. Toyota dealer is a mile from my house.
I went with gates 19363 and 19364 from rockauto counting shipping, was about what one hose cost at oreillys, hope those are the right ones.
 

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