New Yankee Pig Intro

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got all the metal cut last night to patch up my floor. Need to pick up some hardware and seam sealer tonight on the way home. I'll take before & after pics. :)

I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!
 
Booty fab floor patching worked better then expected. :) I was able to utilize an existing patch up by the firewall and Gary's idea of using bolts and washers worked brilliantly. I scraped up the factory sound deadening before putting down the new metal.

I still need to screw down the outside edge but it's really solid. I plan to use some caulk to fill any tiny gaps, then lay down some roofing shingles, covered by the SOR carpet and the Weathertec mats that I already have.... should do just fine. :)

Obviously I need to get the seat bracket back in there as well. ;) The bench is going back in for FG. Maybe I'll go to buckets down the road at some point.

Before:
before1.jpg


before2.jpg


after1.jpg


after2.jpg
 
Are you using any coating or sealant for underneath the new welded area where the old metal meets it? Curious as to what you're planning for that....

I had plans for fixin stuff this weekend.......
 
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Good progress this weekend, rear quarters buttoned up (not pretty, but should be inspectable) more rustoleum laid down over the new metal, turned her around and started on the TRE swap. Need to pull the front wheels to ease that process.

Any suggestions for getting out stuckies? I have one where the nut came off ind but the post won't budge through the end. Ideas? Tricks?

Can anyone point me towards a topic on adjusting the slop (hopefuly) out of the centerarm and the manual steering box. need pictures. thanks
 
Sporin said:
Good progress this weekend, rear quarters buttoned up (not pretty, but should be inspectable) more rustoleum laid down over the new metal, turned her around and started on the TRE swap. Need to pull the front wheels to ease that process.

Any suggestions for getting out stuckies? I have one where the nut came off ind but the post won't budge through the end. Ideas? Tricks?

Can anyone point me towards a topic on adjusting the slop (hopefuly) out of the centerarm and the manual steering box. need pictures. thanks
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Pickle fork for thr TRE's, doesn't cost much.
Center arm adjustment, small bolt in the center of the cap (14mm?) loosen that up then tighten the cap down, retighten the bolt.
Not sure about the steering box.
 
Dave, I have a pickle fork if you want to use it, but I wont be up till Friday evening. You could get one cheap though.
 
Dave do you have the front end up on jack stands yet? this will help releave some of the tension
 
Another method for removing tierod ends is a pair of hammers. Hold one hammer against one side of, say a steering arm, next to where the joint goes in. Hit the opposite side of the arm where the tapered part of the joint is stuck. If needed swing both hammers at the same time at opposite sides of the joint. Hitting the side of the area where the tapered hole is elongates the holes just enough to let the joint fall out. I've broken rod end pullers and tore up pickle forks where a couple good shots with a BFH has the joints out.

NOTE: DO NOT HIT STRAIGHT DOWN ON THE THREADED STUD. This doesn't help. You want to hit the side of the parts involved.

Nick
 
thanks, I'll try that. I got it up on jack stands and 3 out of 4 TRE's are stuck hard, I doused them in PB and will try again tomorrow night.

Got the front floor mats back in and I must say it looks quite presentable. :) :)

It's going to be a loooooonnngggg couple of weeks.
 
I use the method that nick suggested an it works great and doesn't destroy the boots. I usually swing both hammers and try to hit the stuck arm at the same time you get more ball joint popping force out of it but you're timing has to be on and when you miss watch out for fingers, arms, legs and small animals.
 
Sporin said:
So let me get this straight, I hold my BFH against the steering arm, then hit the side of the exposed, threaded stud (that is sticking up) at the same time with another hammer?
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No, no, no. ;p You are whacking the two sides of whatever it is that's bored through, and has the stud sticking through it. You're not trying to force the TRE out like a pickle fork or puller, just break the bond that holds it.

You want to make the hole that the stuck part is in go from "O" to "0" for just a split second breaking the bond. It either works slick, or not at all. We use the same method with 10# sledges to take apart forty year old 6" threaded pipe couplings.
 
I drive a thick flathead at the gap with some PB already sprayed on it. Once you open it up a little the TRE's will spin out. Mine were 30+ years siezed and they came out like a charm.

NVM, I saw which end you were trying to remove. Duh.
 
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