That dealer is smoking crack. Yes, the YZZD3 is ok for you application. Call Cruiserdan so he can get you some 41010. PM him so he can feed his dogs.
New Toyota Oil Filter and Rattle on Startup
- Thread starter Andrewsreef
- Start date
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That dealer is smoking crack. Yes, the YZZD3 is ok for you application. Call Cruiserdan so he can get you some 41010. PM him so he can feed his dogs.
R
robbie
Guest
Concerte you will need to remove the chain tensioner just above the thermostat housing in the head. It is held in place by two nuts on studs.
Madd braggins, bad news. That may be a different type of rattle that can accompany over heating problems. It may be that you now have what is callede piston slap. While some engines can run for long a long time, other will not(depends on oil and how bad). I would reccomend that you have some one check out your compression either when you replace your spark plugs or when parranioa catchs up with you.
No, I only replaced the one in the oil pump. I would have to look at what that one actually does in the oil cooler. I beleive it is only if the cooler pulgs up, it I beleive is not regulator of pressure, but a relief valve. later robbie
Madd braggins, bad news. That may be a different type of rattle that can accompany over heating problems. It may be that you now have what is callede piston slap. While some engines can run for long a long time, other will not(depends on oil and how bad). I would reccomend that you have some one check out your compression either when you replace your spark plugs or when parranioa catchs up with you.
No, I only replaced the one in the oil pump. I would have to look at what that one actually does in the oil cooler. I beleive it is only if the cooler pulgs up, it I beleive is not regulator of pressure, but a relief valve. later robbie
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok, many of you may not like the use of a non-Toyota oil filter but this rattle thing made me experiment a little (seems to be worse with new Toyota filter). I just did an oil change from Truck and SUV to the Rotella Synthetic to see if it helps with my oil consumption (others have already told me not to worry about my oil consumption but as it is not real bad but I want to reduce it if I can). I also changed to a Wal-Mart Super Tech oil filter (I know it sounds really bad). They are spoke of highly on the bobistheoilguy.com web site as they are made by a good company. What made me want to try this filter was the size. It is even smaller than the current Toyota filter.
I am not sure why, but it seems to have eliminated most all of the rattle noise??? I don't seem to get it at all on cold starts and very, very slightl on restarts (after several hours). Is this because of the oil, filter or both??? Both the previous oil and the current oil are the same weight???
I am not sure if this noise reduction will last but I am very encouraged. My truck has made the rattle noise since I purchased it so this is a definate improvement.
If any of you have the noise and want to give it a shot, It would be interesting to see if this combination helps others.
Thanks
Andrew
I am not sure why, but it seems to have eliminated most all of the rattle noise??? I don't seem to get it at all on cold starts and very, very slightl on restarts (after several hours). Is this because of the oil, filter or both??? Both the previous oil and the current oil are the same weight???
I am not sure if this noise reduction will last but I am very encouraged. My truck has made the rattle noise since I purchased it so this is a definate improvement.
If any of you have the noise and want to give it a shot, It would be interesting to see if this combination helps others.
Thanks
Andrew
Currently using the Rotella 5W40 Fully Syn with the Napa Gold and NO start-up rattle...
FYI... When I purchased the truck last year (84K miles), I had quite a chatter at start-up... first order of business was to remove the Fram cheapie filter and replace with the Napa Gold and Rotella Syn... gradulally decreased and 20K miles later.... no rattle.
Rob
FYI... When I purchased the truck last year (84K miles), I had quite a chatter at start-up... first order of business was to remove the Fram cheapie filter and replace with the Napa Gold and Rotella Syn... gradulally decreased and 20K miles later.... no rattle.
Rob
Just changed mine over to the small napa gold filter (3848?) and Mobil Clean 7500 10w30 and my start up rattle is gone...previously had a big toyota filter and unknown oil that the dealership but in.
Just another data point- Mobil 1 0W-40 with cheapie YZZD3 oil filter and no start-up rattle on the '97 80 w/ 69k mi (and excellent maintenance since new). Definitely had the rattle on my old '93 80 w/ 88k mi. (and questionable maintenance until 80k) with the good big and small filters and any oil type I tried...
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robbie
Guest
If truly you wanted to get rid of the rattle on start up (I will not go to this length yet) is to get a pre luber of some sort. The one I am thinking of uses a acculumator of sorts to store oil (a quart or more during running operation) then upon a switch you push before starting up , you would then push oil through the system(stored pressure), then start. This would be similar to what they used to do with turbo truck upon shut down. Another system is to have a electric oil pump to push oil from the pan through the main galley to prelube the system.
I really believe it has some thing to do with the oil getting to the tensioner for the timing chain and the rattle is chain related and should pose no problems to the engine. I have seen chains with over 200 k miles with little to no wear and or strech. later robbie
I really believe it has some thing to do with the oil getting to the tensioner for the timing chain and the rattle is chain related and should pose no problems to the engine. I have seen chains with over 200 k miles with little to no wear and or strech. later robbie
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
Robbie, I've been told the rattle is from the chain, too. When you startup the engine, the tensioner doesn't take up the slack until there's sufficient oil pressure. I guess changing the chain+tensioner+pulleys would temporarily eliminate the problem, but that's kind of unnecessary unless the chain guides or tensioner are prematurely shot, possibly from lack of oil changes/sludge buildup. If toyota still used the double-row chains, it would be more reassuring to know that it would be darn hard for both chains to fail.
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok, I had false hopes. The rattle on start up returned and is not better than with the Truck & SUV and Toyota small filter (YZZ). Not sure why it went away for over a week right after the oil change but it is definately back 
.
Andrew
.Andrew
New fresh oil has all the properties needed to lubricate a motor. Used oil does not. If it only took a week to get the rattle back I would be tempted to send an oil sample off to have it analyzed.
Question: When you check your oil periodically does it tend to look overfull like it gains some over time? Or do you use oil between changes? The reason I ask this is if you have an injector dumping then you could be getting excess amounts of fuel in the crankcase which will thin the oil out and may give you a rattle. Just a thought.
Question: When you check your oil periodically does it tend to look overfull like it gains some over time? Or do you use oil between changes? The reason I ask this is if you have an injector dumping then you could be getting excess amounts of fuel in the crankcase which will thin the oil out and may give you a rattle. Just a thought.
- Thread starter
- #31
I do have an oil consumption issue (about a quart every 1,500-2000 or so miles with mobil 1 that is why I am trying Rotella) but much less to none on road driving (my consumption is only in my severe bumper to bumer traffic I drive in daily, truck uses no oil on trips where I do highway driving even beyound 1,500 miles). I beleive a lot of start and stop driving does put gas in the oil by itself, correct?
My oil level never looks over full or smells like gas and I actually get pretty good mileage considering my daily driving issues (13-14) around town.
You bring up a good point so I will check the oil today and consider sending off for a sample to be looked at.
I wonder if there is a way to check the injectors without pulling the whole thing apart?
Thanks for the help.
Andrew
My oil level never looks over full or smells like gas and I actually get pretty good mileage considering my daily driving issues (13-14) around town.
You bring up a good point so I will check the oil today and consider sending off for a sample to be looked at.
I wonder if there is a way to check the injectors without pulling the whole thing apart?
Thanks for the help.
Andrew
A quick check for the injectors is to use a stethoscope. Gently (I say this because if you have never used one everything is very loud) place the end of the scope on an injector. You can hear the pulse, a very fast clicking. Generally if an injector is clicking it is opening and closing. If you find one that isn't clicking like the others it is stuck in either the open or closed position. Closed will give you a skip, open will give all kinds of different symptoms. Stethoscopes are really useful for finding hard to pinpoint noises as well.
Of course the best check is to pull the injectors and watch the spray patterns but that is a little drastic in this instance.
Spark plugs will also give you a tell tale sign. If one plug is noticeably blacker than the others you may have an injector dumping.
Has anyone tried Castrol dino or synthetic that has had this problem? I'm hesitant to ask because it seems that there are a lot of Mobil 1 supporters here.
Of course the best check is to pull the injectors and watch the spray patterns but that is a little drastic in this instance.
Spark plugs will also give you a tell tale sign. If one plug is noticeably blacker than the others you may have an injector dumping.
Has anyone tried Castrol dino or synthetic that has had this problem? I'm hesitant to ask because it seems that there are a lot of Mobil 1 supporters here.
sixsracing, Yes I use castrol GTX dino with Napa Gold and no rattle here
Vince
Vince
97cruiser, did you have the rattle before you used the Castrol?
- Thread starter
- #35
I originally ran Castrol GTX 10W-30 Dino and I definatley had the rattle with the Napa Gold big filter. It was better with the old Toyota filter but is worse with the new cheap Toyota filter.
The only time I have experienced no start up rattle was the few weeks after this current oil change with the Rotella and SuperTech filter.
Thanks again
Andrew
The only time I have experienced no start up rattle was the few weeks after this current oil change with the Rotella and SuperTech filter.
Thanks again
Andrew
What weight is the Rotella? I am assuming 15W40.
Also, did you ever try a Castrol synthetic with a good Toyota filter?
Also, did you ever try a Castrol synthetic with a good Toyota filter?
- Thread starter
- #37
It is the 5W-40 Synthetic that is talked about so highly on this board. Seems to help with oil consumption issues and has good reviews on bobistheoilguy.com. I have not tried Castrol Syntec but I understand it is a good Group III oil (same as Rotella Synthetic, Group III).
Thanks
Andrew
Thanks
Andrew
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
I had the rattle with Castrol Syntec, and Castrol dino. I still have it with Mobil 1. I think Robbie is right about using an accumulator to pre-pressurize the system b4 starting. When I first switched to Mobil 1 the rattle died down quite a bit but never fully went away. Now I think it sounds the same as b4. Seems that most of us have this problem, but I haven't heard anybody say that their chain blew apart or anything bad like that. It is annoying for sure but there does not seem to be a cheap or easy answer.
My truck does not do this so I cannot research this on my own. I would be interested to know if the Castrol made any diiference at all. The only way to get realistic results is to control the variables. What I mean is to have a group of people use the same o/filter (manufacturer and part #) with the same oil. At the next oil change continue using the same oil filter but use a different oil. Once we go through our list of oils with recorded results then we move on to keeping the oils consistent but using different filters.
There may not be a magic combination but until we can get a controlled group together our results will be screwed.
Someone has suggested that there is a modification that can be done to an oil passage that sounded promising. Have people done this and what was the result?
There may not be a magic combination but until we can get a controlled group together our results will be screwed.
Someone has suggested that there is a modification that can be done to an oil passage that sounded promising. Have people done this and what was the result?
