Hello,
The battery terminals look hacked. I think the fusible links are missing, but it is better to have a closer look.
Toyota did not consider a turbo timer for both the 13B-T and the 2L-T. The user was expected to let the engine running until the temperature stabilized, which took 5 to 10 minutes according to the user's manual, and that only after heavy loads, like driving at speeds over 100 km/h for prolonged periods.
A quick test may help.
Start your engine. If it does within 20 seconds (or less) of cranking the starter, your electrical system is in good shape. If it takes longer, or needs a second cranking, something is drawing current. This is not a definitive test but provides a hint.
Have that timer and all its wires removed, and then try cranking again. Cranking time before engine start should decrease. If it does not, check again.
There are only a few common ground points for the whole electrical system. Locate them using the service manual diagrams, and remove every non-factory ground.
It is good practice to follow the wire harness. Power for non-OEM equipment is often drawn from a harness wire, which usually involves cutting and splicing, sometimes crudely. Find these hacks and eliminate them.
Power is also obtained from the battery terminals, in much the same way. Delete these direct taps as well. Be careful.
Do the cranking test as you remove wiring. If startup time decreases, things are going well.
Hope this helps.
Juan
The battery terminals look hacked. I think the fusible links are missing, but it is better to have a closer look.
Toyota did not consider a turbo timer for both the 13B-T and the 2L-T. The user was expected to let the engine running until the temperature stabilized, which took 5 to 10 minutes according to the user's manual, and that only after heavy loads, like driving at speeds over 100 km/h for prolonged periods.
A quick test may help.
Start your engine. If it does within 20 seconds (or less) of cranking the starter, your electrical system is in good shape. If it takes longer, or needs a second cranking, something is drawing current. This is not a definitive test but provides a hint.
Have that timer and all its wires removed, and then try cranking again. Cranking time before engine start should decrease. If it does not, check again.
There are only a few common ground points for the whole electrical system. Locate them using the service manual diagrams, and remove every non-factory ground.
It is good practice to follow the wire harness. Power for non-OEM equipment is often drawn from a harness wire, which usually involves cutting and splicing, sometimes crudely. Find these hacks and eliminate them.
Power is also obtained from the battery terminals, in much the same way. Delete these direct taps as well. Be careful.
Do the cranking test as you remove wiring. If startup time decreases, things are going well.
Hope this helps.
Juan
