New to Me 100 - Keyfob will NOT work (2 Viewers)

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Aug 8, 2025
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Location
New Jersey
Hi All!

New member and new 100 series owner! I proudly just purchased a 2001 and I am having no luck at all with the key fob. When I bought the car it only came with one key and a broken keyfob. See photos below. It looks as if I have the master key since I can start the car and have been driving it. Seller stated that the keyfob needed a new battery so naturally I went out put in a 1616 Duracell battery. Viola! The lights on the key fob do work when pressing buttons but it does nothing with the car. I nor the seller could figure out what happened to the key portion of the keyfob.

I then went as far to try and reprogram the keyfob because I thought that maybe somewhere it lost connection with the car. Tried everything! Searched the forums here and still no luck. Do I just have a dud of a keyfob or am I missing something. I even attached a photo of what the key buttons look like.

They state (if you can't see) 60010 and 08B11. Any help greatly appreciated. I would like to get the module itself working as I purchased a new case for the keyfob. My goal is to cut a new key this weekend. Thanks all!

Key 1.webp
Key 2.webp
 
Not sure what we’re looking at here. You said you received a broken key fob, so is your photo of a “clicker key” with the metal key blade broken off? I’m not aware that Toyota made blade-less fobs like pictured. And is that attached with a key ring to a functional valet key?

Assuming a “yes” to both questions, are you planning to transplant the guts from the broken fob to a new fob case with a key blade attached to it?
 
Not sure what we’re looking at here. You said you received a broken key fob, so is your photo of a “clicker key” with the metal key blade broken off? I’m not aware that Toyota made blade-less fobs like pictured. And is that attached with a key ring to a functional valet key?

Assuming a “yes” to both questions, are you planning to transplant the guts from the broken fob to a new fob case with a key blade attached to it?
Yes, I received a broken key fob. The photo is, in fact, a "clicker key". The key fob itself was broken at some point. It is just the button portion of a full key fob and keyblade. I don't think Toyota ever made a bladeless fob. The key itself is a functional valet key that starts the car. Hope this helps!

Not sure what we’re looking at here. You said you received a broken key fob, so is your photo of a “clicker key” with the metal key blade broken off? I’m not aware that Toyota made blade-less fobs like pictured. And is that attached with a key ring to a functional valet key?

Assuming a “yes” to both questions, are you planning to transplant the guts from the broken fob to a new fob case with a key blade attached to it?
and yes I am planning to transplant the guts to a new fob with keyblade.
 
So the issue you're having is that you can't lock/unlock doors with key FOB i'm assuming? If its not the fob then it could be the wireless system that receives the signal. Assuming you've checked fuses to make sure they're all okay, Heres a thread about the wireless system that unlocks/locks doors that may help with troubleshooting but the post is not addressing the exact issue you're having but may help with where to start looking. I think auto parts stores may have something that tests for key fob signals but i am unsure on that, but maybe something to look into.


 
and yes I am planning to transplant the guts to a new fob with keyblade.
You might consider just a whole new key/fob combo. Unless your donor and recipient fobs are both OE Toyota, no guarantee that the guts will transplant - the interior of these fobs can vary depending on which vendor made it and when. I bought 2 of aftermarket ones sold on Amazon, they were $35 for the pair, remote & immobilizer programming is DIY, and Home Depot cut them for free (and their interior was different than my OE fob).

IMG_8834.webp
 
Starting and driving could be a valet key too, you need to check the security light and what it does when you insert the key.
Yup I double checked that! Security light goes away as soon as I put the non-keyfob key in. If I'm not mistaken that means it's one of the master keys?
 
it's probably a master, but not necessarily, valet keys were grey, one check is to try locking the glove box, that's the give away for a valet key.
Guy probably broke or lost the blade section, had a cheapy key cut, which works fine. Then used the broke clicker on the ring.
there's a ton of key threads. This isn't a problem. Techstream can accomplish what you need.
Ayune probably has the best threads on keys- If I remember correctly.
I can't remember how many master slots there are in the ECU, I know I had to erase all mine at one point.
 

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