New to FJ60 Ownership: Need Advice on Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder Repair

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It's been a long road, but I'm finally here. After lusting for years after the Mitsubishi Montero, the poor man's Land Cruiser, I've finally gone all-in and gotten myself a 1983 FJ60. Though it does need some body work and I'm starting off here by posting a help about mechanical repair, I still believe it was a good deal as a straight trade on a 1990 Toyota Camry. How often can you say you've turned a Toyota Camry into a Cruiser? :cool:

Now, maybe I've gotten myself in too deep, but I am somewhat mechanically inclined. Although I am still waiting for my shade tree official certificate in the mail! Anyway, I did a lot of research on these forums before doing the trade and I think you guys are awesome, for lack of a better word. Knowledgeable, helpful and non-discriminatory no matter what the circumstance. And with that long winded intro out of the way, I need to ask you for help.

I've been looking the past few days for some sort of guide or link to a repair manual, anything, that can give me a clue about how to repair my master and slave cylinders. It requires 2-3 pumps of the clutch to build enough pressure to shift decently and I don't want to wear the synchros out. So I've bought both a new master and slave cylinder to replace the old ones with. I've done headgasket repairs, fuel injection work, some suspension work, but nothing involving hydraulics. I understand the basics and principles of the work to be done, but that's about it.

If anyone can point me to a thread or guide that says more than "It was easier than I thought!" or is plain vague, I'd be really appreciative. I can tell there's a lot of passionate, knowledgeable members on the forum, so if anyone can just give me a laundry list of steps from memory on how to do this, I'd find a way to ship you some beer (used to work at a microbrewery, now a home brewer for 5 years)! I really enjoy this truck, but it needs this to be done first before I can really tear up some snow in North Dakota. Thanks in advance, everyone, I appreciate it!
 
i can't give you advice on the actual job because i haven't yet done it, but if you look up either spike strip or gregnash (members here on mud) they have factory service manuals (fsm) on pdf. just look at their signature and the link is there. also, the search function is very useful and will give you plenty of information. now, take some pics of the rig! nice job on the trade

WELCOME TO MUD****************** <---------official mud welcome
 
Check my sig for the manuals. I have not done this so I cannot offer any advice other than take your time and introduce yourself in your local clubhouse and see if someone may be able to advise (don't ask someone to do it for you just ask for the advice first).
 
60 and gregnash, thanks for the resources! I don't mind doing my own work, but it's never any fun when you don't know what to do. Is there a directory or resource that shows if there's any local clubs in the Bismarck, North Dakota area?
 
Go through the clubhouse tab at the top of the screen and you will sort by area. From there you will just have to post in the clubhouse forums to see where they are located and if someone can help.
 
Welcome to MUD! I bought a 60 after owning a 100 for 2 yrs. The master and slave are a breeze, the 2 most important things are 1) replace the line between the two, and 2) have a friend on hand to bleed the slave once you get it installed. The bleeding process is the only way to get the air out. If you need details on how to do this pm me.

In fact, before you spring for a new master and slave, give bleeding the one you have in there now a try. You may just have air in there.

Now, how bout some pics of the 60?
 
Welcome to MUD! I bought a 60 after owning a 100 for 2 yrs. The master and slave are a breeze, the 2 most important things are 1) replace the line between the two, and 2) have a friend on hand to bleed the slave once you get it installed. The bleeding process is the only way to get the air out. If you need details on how to do this pm me.

In fact, before you spring for a new master and slave, give bleeding the one you have in there now a try. You may just have air in there.

Now, how bout some pics of the 60?
Thanks for the advice! It doesn't look like there's any fluid loss, but the previous owner simply said that the slave would have to be replaced and I took that at face value. My idea was if I replace one, I may as well do both. But you're right, it might be worth bleeding it, in case there's air in the line.

Unfortunately, I already bought both parts, so my next question is where do you buy the line that goes between the two units? Thanks for the advice, I'll certainly take you up on that PM as I progress. Pictures will follow - I broke one of the cardinal rules of buying a vehicle with nice mechanicals (besides this) and low miles at 118K, but a somewhat rusty body. Still, I couldn't help myself. Camry for a Land Cruiser, I just can't get over that!
 
I bought mine from a guy on eBay named JT Outfitters. He has some stuff on there for sale now. My master and slave came with the line in between. I suppose he will sell you the line with the proper fittings if you ask nicely...
 
Thanks for the information! Is it absolutely necessary to replace that line? I just spoke to the previous owner, and he said that he did not try bleeding the line so I will give that a try, Bull Moose!
 
Not absolutely necessary, but it is rubber on one end and if it has not been replaced, you might as well do it all at once. If that hose is not cracked, it will be .
 
Probably two of the most informational sites on the net that I have found for information on parts is SOR.com and ToyoDIY.com
The first will have things broken down but does not supply the OEM Toyota P/N
The second does supply the OEM Toyota P/N for your vehicle however you will need to enter your VIN so that it can reference it

Both are incredible sites add that with the wealth of knowledge from guys like JimC (FJ40JIM), Georg @ Valley Hybrids (OrangeFJ45), Sam Stewart @ Lowe Toyota, and CDan (CruiserDan) you will find all the help you could ever need, and that was just naming of few of the guys that are overly active on the 60 section. There are tons of guys on here that make their living off these truck, all series, and are more than happy to lend a helping "internet" hand if you ask the right questions.

Welcome to MUD, cake and coffee are in the back, grab a seat and be ready to share, we are all addicts here.
 
If the hard line isn't rusted through and leaking there is no need to replace it. Replacing the short flex line that attaches to the slave cylinder might be a good investment. Again, if it isn't leaking it isn't imperative.

I've heard of other members finding that the clutch fork, the arm the slave cylinder pushes, wasn't set on its fulcrum correctly. Merely repositioning it solved their clutch issues. Generally, if there isn't fluid leaking out, the cylinders are fine.

The slave will show an ooze or drip on the bell housing. The master will leak down the inside of the firewall or on to your floor mat.

Check the reservoir level, add if needed, and bleed the system. :banana: job.
 
FSM downloads in my sig line.

Clutch MC and slave are easy to do. Just spray the fittings with PB Blaster or kroil or other penetrant for a few days before you have at it. Get a good 10mm line wrench, also. It will keep you from stripping the flare nuts.

http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-4-pc-Metric-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set-reviews?tab=details

And FWIW, if the hard line needs to be replaced, it's NLA from Toyota, but SOR sells a braided SS line to replace it.
 

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