New owner questions

[crholliday]

More like newbie mechanic poseur wannabe questions. My '94 is really running well except for a couple of things:

1. Weird idle. When I first start it in the morning it is around 1750+ for the first 90 seconds then every 20 seconds it drops 100 revs until it gets to about 650. If I have run it within the last couple of hours sometimes it will startup with an idle around 600 then drop to 400 until it runs for 10 minutes or so. I assume this is the TB needs to be scrubbed.

2. The ride is pretty rough. I see that most everyone changes their suspension. I am wondering if the characteristcs that mine displays are normal or if they are rough. I feel every chatter that I roll over at 35 mph or less. My shocks may be original or they may be worn. The POs both took pretty good care of the truck but it may just be an age thing. Or I could be a creampuff about it.

So the questions I have around this are:

- Can a rookie remove the TB without the FSM and how much time would it take? If the FSM is really required then what kind of time would it take to remove and clean with the FSM?

- What characteristics would improve by going to non-lifting OME shocks front and rear (the kind that work with the OEM springs)?

- Unrelated question: I drove through about 30" of water this past weekend to get out of a flooded campsite in Arkansas. Is there anything that I should do as PM after a dip like this?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[RavenTai]

get the FSM you will need it for many tasks, also get the EWD you will eventually need it also, NCF is nice, dives descriptions of most of the systems, gives you the why's where the FSM and EWD only give you how's, TB dissasembly cleaning would be a good afternoon task, could spill over into the evening if you take a lot of time with it, could be done in an hour if you rush it

if you went through 30" of water it would be a good Idea to change you diff, transfer, and transmission fluids. first thing you should do with a new cruiser is change all of the fluids anyway, (coolant. brake, power steering, oil, transmission, transfer, front diff, rear diff, etc)

 

[Brentbba]

Idle as you describe it is normal. My '94 has been doing that since new 10 years ago.

Can't say about your ride. I just recently put OME springs on. Had done Rancho 9000's a few months earlier so no OME shocks. I went with the medium/heavy no lift (861/862 combo I think) and really like the improved ride/handling over 10 year old original equipment. Lift and ride are all personal choices along with how you will be using your LC.

 

[Lars]

1. Weird idle. When I first start it in the morning it is around 1750+ for the first 90 seconds then every 20 seconds it drops 100 revs until it gets to about 650. If I have run it within the last couple of hours sometimes it will startup with an idle around 600 then drop to 400 until it runs for 10 minutes or so. I assume this is the TB needs to be scrubbed.

Mine does the same thing. Idles very high for about the same period of time and then steadily drops. My throttle body was cleaned recently with no effect.

- Can a rookie remove the TB without the FSM and how much time would it take?

Yes. An hour... roughly. And then time to clean up and put it back together. You might want to get torque specs for when you bolt it back up.

- Unrelated question: I drove through about 30" of water this past weekend to get out of a flooded campsite in Arkansas. Is there anything that I should do as PM after a dip like this?

How long were you in the water? Are your diff breathers extended higher than 30"? You might consider draining the diffs and putting in fresh lube.

I would also be concerned about wheel bearings.... but I dont know how well toy axles hold up to water so hopefully someone else will chime in.


--Larry

 

[crholliday]

Whoa thanks for the quick replies!

Brent:

Can't say about your ride. I just recently put OME springs on. Had done Rancho 9000's a few months earlier so no OME shocks. I went with the medium/heavy no lift (861/862 combo I think) and really like the improved ride/handling over 10 year old original equipment. Lift and ride are all personal choices along with how you will be using your LC.

When you say improved ride/handling, can you qualify that with what changed and how it is improved?

Larry:

How long were you in the water? Are your diff breathers extended higher than 30"?

I was in the water for about 45 seconds and I assume my diff breathers (whatever those are) are stock. Is there any diagonsis I can do to see if water got someplace it shouldnt?

Thanks,

C.

 

[Brentbba]

Ride is firmer without being harsh and the beast doesn't wallow thru turns anymore, less body lean. Handling is more responsive...for a Landcruiser. We aren't talking sports car here. hehehe

 

[Beowulf]

C,

>> Is there any diagonsis I can do to see if water got someplace it shouldnt? <<

Replace the front & rear diff fluid and you can determine several things. First is if any water got in during the creek crossing. Water enters due to the design and location of the diff breathers. The stock ones are not mounted very high and many of us extend them into the engine bay. The other problem caused by the stock breathers is that when hot, they create a vacuum in the diff which can (when submerged) suck in cold water through the axle tubes past the oil seal. The "best practice" is to remove the flap that creates the vacuum and relocate the breathers. There is a comprehensive post in the archives. I think a search on "diff breather" should get you one that I posted a few years ago.

-B-

 

[Rookie2]

So in about how deep of water can a let's say stock 80 go before running into problems (water coming inside, possible exhaust problems, engine trouble) ?


Rookie2

 

[NorCalDoug]

Rookie2,
Easiest way to tell is take a look at where your breathers end. On the rear, you'll see a hose attached to top of the diff housing. The hose is attached to the frame -- just folloow the hose up to see where it's attached. If you cross water higher than that -- you'll likely get some water sucked in. Front diff is similar, but there's a small box attached to the end of the breather.

Extension of the breathers is usually one of the first things people do -- it's very much a job.

 

[MoJ]

crholliday - -

High start up idle is normal.
I fixed my low idle by cleaning the TB without removing it.....just gotta be thorough.
Since you're in OKC have you heard of the Green Country Cruisers Club? www.greencountrycruisers.com

-Jason

 

[Doc]

I just extended my breather hose this evening after flushing the front diff. If you are lying under the truck with your feet at the front and head in the middle of the truck, your left hand will be near the diff breather. It's NOT on TOP of the diff, it IS on top of the axle housing, or whatever it's called. It attaches to the frame rail with a 12mm bolt, and about 10" of hose.

I ran mine up to the fuse box area, make sure you leave a loop of hose at the bottom for suspension articulation.

I have not done the rear yet.

 

[NorCalDoug]

...NOT on TOP of the diff, it IS on top of the axle housing, or whatever it's called. It attaches to the frame rail with a 12mm bolt, and about 10" of hose.

:whoops: I stand corrected. It's been a while since I looked.

 

[Rookie2]

Rookie2,
Easiest way to tell is take a look at where your breathers end. On the rear, you'll see a hose attached to top of the diff housing. The hose is attached to the frame -- just folloow the hose up to see where it's attached. If you cross water higher than that -- you'll likely get some water sucked in. Front diff is similar, but there's a small box attached to the end of the breather.

Extension of the breathers is usually one of the first things people do -- it's very much a job.

Thanks Doug, but let me try asking this a little different... let's say the breathers have been raise and tied off to the roof rack.. den how deep could a normal crusier go??


Rookie2

 

[NorCalDoug]

Without a snorkel? Only as high as the air intake would allow -- which I recall being just about headlight level.

With a snorkel, I've seen them with water up to the top of the hood (for short distances).

 

[Rookie2]

Hmm.. Wonder if there's any danger of shock-cooling the motor/head.

Sounds like it's time for some breather extensions though, to at least be able to get above the hubs.

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[lurker]

More like newbie mechanic poseur wannabe questions. My '94 is really running well except for a couple of things:

1. Weird idle. When I first start it in the morning it is around 1750+ for the first 90 seconds then every 20 seconds it drops 100 revs until it gets to about 650. If I have run it within the last couple of hours sometimes it will startup with an idle around 600 then drop to 400 until it runs for 10 minutes or so. I assume this is the TB needs to be scrubbed.


Chris

I've also had the weird idle normally and super weird with the AC on.

Here was the problem.

 

[nyk438]

I've also had the weird idle normally and super weird with the AC on.

Here was the problem.

What is that a pic of?

 

[lurker]

What is that a pic of?

That's the throttle body.

Mine had 240,000 miles on it and was in need of a "minor" cleaning.

My idle would serge all over the place, and would act differently under EVERY circumstance, heat, startup, cold, AC, long drives, etc....

I was kind of a hard job for me because I did it in the dark and have gorrila size hands or is that gorrila size brain?

I also sprayed about 1 can of carb cleaner into the runners and had bean size globs of varnish falling down (top picture), here's the result of a gorrila trying to operating a digital canera.

Bottom pick is the finished product.

Total time 1.5 hours for creatures with opposable thumbs.

 

[nyk438]

Where abouts is the throttle body on an 80? And how did you clean it? Also, what substances did you use to clean it?

 

[lurker]

Where abouts is the throttle body on an 80? And how did you clean it? Also, what substances did you use to clean it?

See the big gaping hole, that's where the TB goes. It's in between the air cleaner snorkle and the runners to the intake valves.

I used simple $1.29 carb cleaner (2 cans) and don't tell any of the other guys, I like to use brake cleaner to get the tuff stuff off, but I finish off with carb cleaner because it has some lube value to it.

I also use those blue neopream (what ever) rubber gloves because you will nick your hands up and the carb cleaner burns, well in a nice way.