New owner of 5.3 swap...few questions about Vortec Voodo

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I don't think I would blame the PO for not returning calls. By the looks and the time it took he got hosed pretty bad. As you said sold at a discount and probably just wanted to be rid of that chapter of his life.

I think overall you'll come out way ahead in this deal anyway once you get it cleaned up.

I just wonder what could have took him so long the first time. I would have thought that thing would be perfect for the time that was supposedly spent on that truck.

Does the rest of the stuff, gauges, AC etc work at least?
 
Hi Kurtis.
I hear what you're saying but I'm a nice guy and just wanted a few clues as to what was done or not done since randy ( the guy who did swap) does not return calls.

The gauges work except tach. The a/c apparently used to work however it has not since I picked it up. All of these things are expected though with any used truck purchase especially a repowered one.

What's just odd is some things are done well, and other looked very rushed.

Eiether way well get it sorted.
 
Taking a step back and looking at the situation on hand, I can see why the previous owner won't return your calls. He probably had big dreams of a sweet Vortec powered wagon and instead of tackling it himself, he forked out the money to have it "professionally" built.
Obviously that's not what he got. And I'm sure every call and email from you remind him of this fiasco.
Knowingly or not, you might be pouring salt in the wound.

Please don't get me wrong. I am in no way implying that you're purposely bringing back bad memories for the previous owner. Just voicing my view on his possible perception of the situation.

This is purely a theory and not supported by any facts or first hand knowledge.

Georg
 
the tach can be tricky. post up what you see when you get there. I learned a lot about the tach output of the computer along the way. That one took me months.
 
True George. I guess it was a formality when he said to " give him a shout if I have any questions."

Thanks rover. I took a look today and it has a sunpro tach with an auto meter tach adapter not installed yet. I'm going to tackle that tomorrow.

I ordered a factory yota fuel separator so I can atleast get the thing driving.

Fixed some other random things like steering stops out of whack etc but easy stuff.
 
AKFJ80 said:
True George. I guess it was a formality when he said to " give him a shout if I have any questions."

Thanks rover. I took a look today and it has a sunpro tach with an auto meter tach adapter not installed yet. I'm going to tackle that tomorrow.

I ordered a factory yota fuel separator so I can atleast get the thing driving.

Fixed some other random things like steering stops out of whack etc but easy stuff.
Click to expand...

If you could, please post details on your tach install?

Looking to do this myself at some point.
 
I too used the autometer tach adapter. you may want to read about tach pull up circuits, or pull up resistors here and on the rest of the web. It might make the wiring a bit cleaner. Hooking up the Tach adapter for me was kinda involved since I wanted it to look right I had do tear the harness apart to find the right power wire for the coils.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/347509-goat-5-3-a-5.html#post5573448
 
Still missing with the evap stuff. SOR came through and some parts arrived today.

In the meantime I have another issue I forgot to mention to you guys.

Hard start after warm.

Truck start cold well, like any other efi vehicle. However after warmup and a restart (say after 20 seconds or so) it takes several seconds to start.

To recap... external MSD fuel pump mounded on frame rail lower than tank...to external filter with a return line coming off of that to tank.

The motor does NOT have a fuel return and I cannot find any sort of fuel pressure regulator. There is a pressure gauge and the line does not hold pressure at all after shutdown.

My question is:

Does fuel pressure need to stay fairly primed in the feed line after shutdown? Does the fuel pump have a built in check valve and is this needed if not?

Or is my fuel pump simply on its way out? I understand the MSD pumps are not BOSH or Walbro quality.

And finally I will fix my current evap isue before I tackle the next one. Truck runs great now but one thing at a time! :)
 
You might need a relay on your starting system..
If you look up hotshot from painless it will give you an idea as to what you need/might want to do..
I used to have the same issue truck started great at first but once it warmed up and I turned it off it would crank but not run..
the solenoid was not getting enough juice..

External pumps have been well documented in this forum and they seem to be a 50/50 rate.
You should really go with an in-tank pump..
There is a good thread here that talks about intank pumps and the a napa filter that can be used as a fuel pressure regulator...
when I used to run the pressure regulator the pressure did not hold up but that was never an issue..
 
I hear ya. Well I did some reading last night about internal pump vs exoernal. However I could not find a good reference for a part # that will fit inside the stock 62 tank ( hole next to sending unit)

I'll keep looking and see what I can find for my year engine.
 
also, my fuel system keeps pressure for a long time (at least a day) after i turn it off. it for sure stays primed. I ma using an in tankk pump with a corvette fuel filter/regulator combo in the back of the rig, single line to the motor. no return.

the fuel filter does the pressure regulation for the motor and it is a returnless style system.
 
Thanks guys, I did unbolt it and took a look inside and to seal it with the proper sealant.

It has a rubber hose going as the feed line with a sock filter at the pickup. The return line was simply a return to tank and of course the fuel pressure sensor for evap system.

I do not see how it would be difficult to retrofit a walbro or even GM pump in this location or even as mentioned the stock location.

I will take a look at the thread. Right now I need to take a shower...I finally intalled the fuel seperator (stock yota) for the evap system as Georg mentioned and all seems well so cross fingers!

I did have a few leaks but they were my own fault (loose clamps) otherwise no more siphoning into the canister which is what started this entire mess.

WHo knows, perhaps it will cure my warm start issue as the evap system has a way of causing such symptoms on other vehicles.
 
My plans are for it to be both. Proffits is starting to link more of the 60 series and are thinking about a kit even when we spoke.
I basically want a desert running/Rock crawling beast I can also take to the movies on Saturday night :)

Obviously it's no buggy but I think the occasional rubicon etc is a good place to aim for.

By the way, thank you for your help. Your advice with the can and vapor line routing ( stock setup) cured my issues.
 
Glad I could help resolve your evap issue.


Fwiw, I don't think link suspensions are to be used on street driven rigs. Not with heim joints anyways. Theirs strictly for competition and/or off road use.


Hth


Georg
 
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