I recently purchased a 95 tlc with 87k miles for $12,500 from original owner with extensive maintenance records . It is very clean and runs excellent. I am soooo happy with the vehicle and look forward to a long future with it. It is completely stock and unlocked (for now). I live in Redlands, CA...anyone out there in my area?
I have become a regular "lurker" to the site and am very impressed with the dedicated group of regulars sharing their knowledge...what an incredible service you all are providing...thanks.
While the vehicle does run very well, it has multiple issues that need addressing. The following is a list of repairs suggested from a dealer inspection: oil pan gasket ($1120), front engine oil seal ($164), reseal power steering pump($369), replace rear trans seal($95), replace speedo o-rings ($85), replace valve cover gasket($159), reseal front axle nuckels ($1158), EGR modulator and passage cleaning ($300). Despite all the apparent leaks, there is not much making it to the driveway, some days there will be no drips, some days there may be two.
I have zero experience working on cars, however I went ahead and bought a factory service manual in the hopes of doing some 1/4 to 1
jobs myself. I thought I would try Cary's advice of Redline 5w-30 to "swell seals" and stop some of the these leaks, especially the $$$ ones. For the power steering leak, I'm going to try either Lucas power steering stop leak or the Valvoline brand, I'm not sure which one yet. I was hoping to do some of the less expensive gasket/seal replacements myself, but I'm finding that much of the FSM assumes a basic level of mechanical background that I do not have. I can't even find instructions on the speedo o-rings, or the valve cover gasket. Are these repairs addressed in the FSM, if so what pages can I find them on (An index in the back sure would be helpful for us mechanically challenged folks)?
I've got new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in the garage. I'm waiting to install these until after I decarbonize. I got a coupon in the mail from the dealer for a $99 throttle body and fuel injection cleaning. Will they actually take the throttle body off to do this, if not, is their cleaning as effective as taking it off and cleaning it? The dealer wants $120 to clean out the EGR passages, I thought I would leave this up to a professional, but perhaps not the dealer?? I'll install the EGE modulator myself. Currently my gas mileage is in the 12-14 range, I did reach 15.0 on our last road trip. I'm hoping that after a decarbonizing, a tune up, a Birfield repack, and all synthetic fluids, it will get 17 mpg on the highway and 14-15 around town...is this just wishful thinking?
Once I have the $$$ I plan on having TLC4x4 in Van Nuys do the Birfield repack, I am also anxious to have them give my vehicle a general once over as well. Unfortunately, I think the Birfield repack is out of my league. I would love to have them install a front locker while doing the Birfield, but I don't think I can swing the extra $$$. I know that if only a single locker, the rear is preferable, but is there any reason one shouldn't run a front locker without one on the rear?
The temperature gauge always runs just a hair above horizontal. I have read all the posts regarding the gauge and the "dead spot". I am concerned because, except for those with overheating problems, everyone states that their temperature gauge is either at horizontal or slightly below. My gauge reaches this position quickly and stays there despite the load (a good thing I guess). The air temperature from my heater vents is hotter than any vehicle I've experienced in the past. Does anybody think that my temperature gauge reading is cause for alarm. Is the gauge meausuring coolant temperature, if so can I take it to a shop to get an actual reading to know if my engines running hot or if its just a function of the gauge? The last thing I want is head gasket failure. No bubbles...but...how long does the engine need to stay at 3 rpm while doing the bubble test?
Thats it for now...I think that about covers it
Thanks
Perk
I have become a regular "lurker" to the site and am very impressed with the dedicated group of regulars sharing their knowledge...what an incredible service you all are providing...thanks.
While the vehicle does run very well, it has multiple issues that need addressing. The following is a list of repairs suggested from a dealer inspection: oil pan gasket ($1120), front engine oil seal ($164), reseal power steering pump($369), replace rear trans seal($95), replace speedo o-rings ($85), replace valve cover gasket($159), reseal front axle nuckels ($1158), EGR modulator and passage cleaning ($300). Despite all the apparent leaks, there is not much making it to the driveway, some days there will be no drips, some days there may be two.
I have zero experience working on cars, however I went ahead and bought a factory service manual in the hopes of doing some 1/4 to 1
jobs myself. I thought I would try Cary's advice of Redline 5w-30 to "swell seals" and stop some of the these leaks, especially the $$$ ones. For the power steering leak, I'm going to try either Lucas power steering stop leak or the Valvoline brand, I'm not sure which one yet. I was hoping to do some of the less expensive gasket/seal replacements myself, but I'm finding that much of the FSM assumes a basic level of mechanical background that I do not have. I can't even find instructions on the speedo o-rings, or the valve cover gasket. Are these repairs addressed in the FSM, if so what pages can I find them on (An index in the back sure would be helpful for us mechanically challenged folks)? I've got new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in the garage. I'm waiting to install these until after I decarbonize. I got a coupon in the mail from the dealer for a $99 throttle body and fuel injection cleaning. Will they actually take the throttle body off to do this, if not, is their cleaning as effective as taking it off and cleaning it? The dealer wants $120 to clean out the EGR passages, I thought I would leave this up to a professional, but perhaps not the dealer?? I'll install the EGE modulator myself. Currently my gas mileage is in the 12-14 range, I did reach 15.0 on our last road trip. I'm hoping that after a decarbonizing, a tune up, a Birfield repack, and all synthetic fluids, it will get 17 mpg on the highway and 14-15 around town...is this just wishful thinking?
Once I have the $$$ I plan on having TLC4x4 in Van Nuys do the Birfield repack, I am also anxious to have them give my vehicle a general once over as well. Unfortunately, I think the Birfield repack is out of my league. I would love to have them install a front locker while doing the Birfield, but I don't think I can swing the extra $$$. I know that if only a single locker, the rear is preferable, but is there any reason one shouldn't run a front locker without one on the rear?
The temperature gauge always runs just a hair above horizontal. I have read all the posts regarding the gauge and the "dead spot". I am concerned because, except for those with overheating problems, everyone states that their temperature gauge is either at horizontal or slightly below. My gauge reaches this position quickly and stays there despite the load (a good thing I guess). The air temperature from my heater vents is hotter than any vehicle I've experienced in the past. Does anybody think that my temperature gauge reading is cause for alarm. Is the gauge meausuring coolant temperature, if so can I take it to a shop to get an actual reading to know if my engines running hot or if its just a function of the gauge? The last thing I want is head gasket failure. No bubbles...but...how long does the engine need to stay at 3 rpm while doing the bubble test?
Thats it for now...I think that about covers it
Thanks
Perk
