New Noise (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter matt32
- Start date
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Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Knuckle studs? not following
what's not to follow.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
They backed out? doing what? driving? is this what caused the issue?
I think he means the studs were so loose in the housing that they came out instead of the nuts coming loose. On Saturday Matt was debating whether or not he should take the knuckle off or just throw the new birf in there. He and I both agreed that he should take it off to check for metal from the old birf, and I recommended he check the knuckle studs to make sure they were tight while he had it off. It sounds like they weren't and some were even missing. I don't think this has anything to do with the original problem but I think he is leaning toward full knuckle job now that he is halfway there and has the experience and tools to do it. Matt, feel free to correct me if I am wrong on any of this.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
ah. Now clear as mud
- Thread starter
- #147
Right on target. The outer two studs were still there but loose and the inner studs are on the side of the road somewhere in the city. Looked at the drivers side and everything appears to still be there. The issue was caused by me paying a shop to do a wonderful install 
job on my junk instead of doing it myself. Live and learn right. So as it stands fix is on hold again awaiting new studs.
job on my junk instead of doing it myself. Live and learn right. So as it stands fix is on hold again awaiting new studs.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
I'm a stud. But don't wait on me.
- Thread starter
- #150
Okay so I called CDan to get pricing on for the studs and talk about what happened. First he told me that he would sell the studs to me but that after shipping he would recommend trying to get them local first because it would be a wash. Now to the failure he said the studs backing out is what caused the failure. Without the studs in there the moly can leak out of the knuckle because there is now a hole. So the failure was caused by lack of moly because I was missing knuckle studs. So my PSA for the day is check your knuckle studs and make sure they're installed correctly.
That is very interesting, makes sense to me. Make sure you get the new studs with the torx head on them, they make installation easy. I've got the socket for them.
- Thread starter
- #152
Got (4) ordered today with all the associated hardware and they should be here tomorrow. Asked the parts guy what they were called and he said hex lobular stud so I think they are the new sytle.
- Thread starter
- #154
Okay so I finally got everything back together and am getting ready to put the drive shaft back in. While looking in the FSM it mentioned match marking the the driveshaft and flanges. So I didn't do that am I going to have new problems now.
no, you will be fine. I think the front is supposed to be 90 degrees out of phase? look in the 80 series section to see. I have always marked the shafts when I have removed them, but the marks have always worn off before I reinstalled them.
- Thread starter
- #156
Last call for help on this project hopefully. Anybody got a portable air compressor and an air chisel? I've got everything put back together but I can't get the fill plug out of the diff. It is rounded pretty bad and looks like somebody used some form of chisel to take it off. I've tried vise grips, pipe wrench, and hammer/ screw driver to get it to break and no luck.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Oh no... It's the unicorn story that I've always made sure I could loosen the fill plug before I drained... but I've never heard of anyone being stuck doing it...
best thing to do is weld a socket to it and get it off that way since you gotta get a new one anyway...
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Surely someone you know does... I wish you lived closer. I really do.
- Thread starter
- #160
Hey I'm thankful for the help you and Matt have given. The knuckle rebuild wasn't nearly as bad as I thought. It just sucks to be done and now a 2.00 bolt has me stopped. Oh well at least I now when I get done where I stand from here.