new mono amp into factory system?

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Mxndrnks

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I have a new mono amp and new 10" JL W7AE sub coming in. I have not replaced my factory head unit or factory amp yet. I have replaced all door speakers. I plan to replace the factory head unit this spring/summer with the new AVIC-X940BT

I plan to install the mono amp in this location like BBQ did:
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w252/BBQRidge/IMG_3322.jpg

But that is about the extent of my expertise. So, I hope one of you can help me with some questions:


  1. Since I will be connecting this to the factory system at first and then to an aftermarket unit. Where do I run the signal to the amp from? Is there a place on the back of the factory head unit I should tap into/plug into?? Should I take the signal out from the stock amp to the factory woofer and use that??
  2. Power to the Amp - I have run a fuse panel to the factory jack location. Can I tap into this or should I run power directly from my 2nd battery?
  3. How do I make sure the amp doesnt have a continuous draw from the battery even when power is off? Will this be in the instructions?
  4. BBQBOY - what are you using to secure your amp in that picture above?
  5. Anything else I should know before taking this on?
Thanks guys! It has been close to 20 years (ouch- hurts to say that) since the last time I did an amp and sub install in a car.

 
1. You could probably tap into the wiring going into the stock amp for the sub input - if there is even a dedicated sub input. Or, tap into the amp sub outs if your amp will take a line level input. I doubt the stock HU has pre-outs for a sub.
2. What gauge wire did you run to your rear fuse panel? If it's big enough, you could run a fused distribution block nearby.
3. The factory amp has a turn-on lead from the head unit. You'll need to tap into that and run it to your amp turn-on input. This will keep it off when everything else is.
5. I think I found a factory wiring color code sheet for the amp when I was cleaning my office a few weeks ago. I will check. Maybe someone else has them handy for the remote turn on and sub in and out colors.
 
Here is the amp wiring diagram, according to Crutchfield:

2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Wiring Information

FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Right Front Spkrs + 1 L.GN
Left Front Spkrs + 2 PK ¹
Right Rear Spkr + 3 RD
Left Rear Spkr + 4 BK
Right Woofer + 5 BU/BK ²
Left Woofer + 6 BU/WT ²
Constant 12 Volt 7 BU/YW
Right Front Spkrs - 8 BU
Left Front Spkrs - 9 VT ¹
Right Rear Spkr - 10 WT
Left Rear Spkr - 11 YW
Chassis Ground 12 BN
Chassis Ground 13 BN
Right Woofer - 14 BU/RD ²
Left Woofer - 15 BU/YW ²
Constant 12 Volt 16 GY/RD ³
With Navigation Only
FUNCTION PIN WIRE COLOR
Amp Remote 17 BK/RD
Accessory 12 Volt 18 GY
Beep Input 20 GN
Left Front + Input 21 PK
Right Front + Input 22 YW
Ground from Radio 26 BN
Common - Input 27 BK
Mute Input 28 OG
Left Rear + Input 29 WT
Right Rear + Input 30 RD
 
Jonathan, I have only replaced the stock head unit with a Kenwood dnx7140 (opposite order of what you are doing). I am still using the crap stock amp and speakers...

I plan on removing the factory amp and powering all speakers except the sub from the Kenwood receiver. Then, getting a mono amp like you to power an after market sub. If you are planning on doing this as well, I can help you map out the factory amp wiring to make this work. Let me know....

I currently have a slight hum that I am pretty sure is coming from the factory amp due to an impedance mismatch since i am using RCA connections to the factory amp. Removing the amp should fix it!
 
Why would you remove the factory amplifier?
 
Wilsil - the factory amp is pretty bad. Most (not all) that have put in an aftermarket head unit have found that the head unit is better than the factory amp or had issues when trying to use the factory amp. Others replaced the amp all together.

Thanks for the input guys! I think between the info above and the electrical wiring FSM I have.... I should be able to figure the signal wiring.

As far as power, I think I am going to go ahead and run a dedicated 4ga power line from the 2nd battery to the amp. It has been a while, but I am pretty sure I only ran a 10ga or 8ga power line back to the rear fused distribution block. Right now the only things running off of that are my fridge and the factory aux power back there.

I know I am doing this all backwards.... I have had a hard time deciding on head units. I was all set on Kenwood, then the past couple years the reviews have been mediocre at best. And it looks like you can no longer do topo maps for off-roading like older models. Then, I had a pioneer model picked out around Christmas time and it became discontinued.... I'll get there.... even if it is the long way round....

Hey Craig, I havnt decided if I will replace the factory amp or just remove it completely yet. Still need to look into that. Right now I am running Rockford Fosgate T2652-s's in the front doors and T1s652's in the rear doors. If you need anything when you are ready to do anything let me know.
 
ckkone - I know what you mean! I dont really want a nav unit because I love my droid for that. But there a features I want that push me towards the higher priced Nav units. We'll eventually just have to take the plunge right? LOL!
 
Most of the Nav systems are useless on the trails. However, I do like the integration with my iPhone, traffic, the ability to interface with Pandora (change songs etc via the nav). Once in a while, I will even watch a DVD when parked to kill time. So, there are many other reasons to get a nav unit other than the GPS features.

I end up using my iPhone maps and other apps to navigate when off roading. I usually download the maps locally to my phone before I leave so they will work when out of cell range & 3G range.
 
Oh, dont get me wrong... I want a double din unit with DVD and to be able to play Pandora. But, I have a droid phone. So I-Phone integration low down for me. And Nav isnt really an issue since I use my droid for everything. It is things like non-flipping face, SDHC card slot and a volume "knob" if you can find one.....although the knob is slowly falling off that list. I am pretty sure it will be a Pioneer unit. It is a matter of which one.....
 
Mxndrnks said:
... slot and a volume "knob" if.....
Click to expand...

Mine does not have a volume knob and it really does bug me. It has tiny up/down buttons that are hard to find when driving.
 
Mine does not have a volume knob and it really does not bug me. It has tiny up/down buttons that are easy to find when driving. It's a pioneer.

MXn you need something with A2DP bluetooth profile so you can stream right from your droid phone.

Pioneer just announced their second gen App Radio with android support, that might be up your alley.
 
Man... I may just take this amp to a shop and let them install it. I am good with the power and ground. But the instructions for the rest really suck! Damn you Kenwood!
 
Mxndrnks said:
Man... I may just take this amp to a shop and let them install it. I am good with the power and ground. But the instructions for the rest really suck! Damn you Kenwood!
Click to expand...

PM me we can skype if you want and I'll help you out.
 
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