New Member Introduction: My Dream BJ70 – 3B, 146k km, Canadian Spec (1 Viewer)

[Ginger ale]

Hi everyone!
Just wanted to share some great news — my long-time dream has finally come true: I’m now the proud owner of a Toyota Land Cruiser BJ70! I spent almost two years searching for the right one, and then another year negotiating with the previous owner. Patience really paid off.
Now it’s mine — a BJ70 with a naturally aspirated 3B engine, Canadian spec, in excellent condition with just 146,000 km on the clock. For its age, it's in great shape, though of course, it has a few quirks and issues to sort out.
I’m looking forward to learning from this community and getting advice where needed — hopefully, with your help, I’ll be able to bring it to perfect running condition. Glad to be part of a group that truly appreciates these legends!

 

[bj70_guy]

Congrats, not easy to find a cdn spec BJ70 in good shape with super low miles to boot!

What are your plans for it? And what area of Canada are you in?

 

[Felde]

Welcome to the madness .
If you need some manuals: Shoot me a PM. I have most of them in digital format to share. What year is it?
Enjoy your new toy
Cheers Ralf

 

[Ginger ale]

Welcome to the madness .
If you need some manuals: Shoot me a PM. I have most of them in digital format to share. What year is it?
Enjoy your new toy
Cheers Ralf

Thanks a lot , its 1985 12v

 

[Ginger ale]

Congrats, not easy to find a cdn spec BJ70 in good shape with super low miles to boot!

What are your plans for it? And what area of Canada are you in?

First of all, I plan to take care of a number of small but annoying issues. Among them are cleaning the air conditioning system and removing minor rust from small interior parts.
I also need to replace the gasket on the front left wheel or axle, as there are oil splashes visible on the wheel rim — most likely a leak.
Next, I need to figure out why the oil pressure gauge on the dashboard doesn’t respond at all — it might be a faulty sensor or wiring issue.
After that, I'll look into the reason why the engine has trouble starting and produces clouds of smoke. However, it's not burning oil — I've driven 1,600 km and the oil level has stayed the same.
By the way, today I evicted two "tenants" from the air duct. Looks like someone had made a cozy nest in there.
This car is a sort of barn find. According to its documented history and a Carfax report, it had driven 122,000 km by 1991. After that, it was only occasionally used. The previous owner said that starting from 2004, he would take it out just once a year for about 15 km — and that’s it. This continued until 2025, when I finally bought it.

 

[Felde]

Looks good.
If it almost hasn't been used for that long, you should give it a full inspection and a full service. Changing all (!) fluids and a brake job are imperative.
Use the search to find advice on what to look at (I did some post on that, too).
'Front wheel gasket' is called 'The knuckle job'. Lots of fun . Use the search to learn more. I just recently shared a good YouTube find on how to do it. You need a workshop manual (I'll PM you).
The AC is never only 'clean & recharge'.
Note: The 3B has two different oil sensors. One is just a switch and controls the EDIC: The engine gets shut off, if the oil pressure fails.
The other sensor controls the engine-oil check light and (if fitted) the oil pressure gauge. If no gauge I fixed, this sensor is also just a switch. If a gauge is fitted (Iike in yours), it's a sensor; looks like a mushroom. Both are located next to each other on the right side, little under and front of the oil filter flange.
Color of engine smoke may tell the issue: White: Air in fuel line or coolant = cracked head gasket. Grey or black: unburned diesel. Blueish and distinctive smell: oil. Puffs on changing load or when shifting: Valve seals. Be cautious on the cooling: The level in the expansion tank doesn't tell much, and the temp gauges are notorious for not being accurate.
Hard start: Is the cranking good? 3B needs a lot of power to turn over (which a 12V may struggel on), but generally starts good. Check ground of starter and battery. Check glow. Hard start may also be caused by lack of initial fuel: The 3B has no return line to the tank and no fuel pump in the tank. Any air seeping into the fuel line (e.g. by a cracked rubber line), may make the diesel flow back into the tank, causing hard start and white smoke on start.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[Ginger ale]

Looks good.
If it almost hasn't been used for that long, you should give it a full inspection and a full service. Changing all (!) fluids and a brake job are imperative.
Use the search to find advice on what to look at (I did some post on that, too).
'Front wheel gasket' is called 'The knuckle job'. Lots of fun . Use the search to learn more. I just recently shared a good YouTube find on how to do it. You need a workshop manual (I'll PM you).
The AC is never only 'clean & recharge'.
Note: The 3B has two different oil sensors. One is just a switch and controls the EDIC: The engine gets shut off, if the oil pressure fails.
The other sensor controls the engine-oil check light and (if fitted) the oil pressure gauge. If no gauge I fixed, this sensor is also just a switch. If a gauge is fitted (Iike in yours), it's a sensor; looks like a mushroom. Both are located next to each other on the right side, little under and front of the oil filter flange.
Color of engine smoke may tell the issue: White: Air in fuel line or coolant = cracked head gasket. Grey or black: unburned diesel. Blueish and distinctive smell: oil. Puffs on changing load or when shifting: Valve seals. Be cautious on the cooling: The level in the expansion tank doesn't tell much, and the temp gauges are notorious for not being accurate.
Hard start: Is the cranking good? 3B needs a lot of power to turn over (which a 12V may struggel on), but generally starts good. Check ground of starter and battery. Check glow. Hard start may also be caused by lack of initial fuel: The 3B has no return line to the tank and no fuel pump in the tank. Any air seeping into the fuel line (e.g. by a cracked rubber line), may make the diesel flow back into the tank, causing hard start and white smoke on start.
Good Luck Ralf

Thank you so much, Ralf!
This weekend, I’ll try to record a video of how the engine starts when it’s cold.
If you’re interested, I’d really appreciate it if you could take a look and maybe share your thoughts on what the issue might be.
Your opinion and advice mean a lot to me!

 

[coldtaco]

hard start problems "usually" are glow plug related. test the system.

 

[LDowney]

...
After that, I'll look into the reason why the engine has trouble starting and produces clouds of smoke. However, it's not burning oil — I've driven 1,600 km and the oil level has stayed the same.
...

Looks like an exceptional find. My first BJ70 was an '85 Canadian spec 70 like yours, but she had more challenges with rust than what yours appears to have.

It also had the same starting behavior as yours. It was my understanding that my injectors were dirty and needed to be serviced. Regrettably, a knucklehead ran a stop light and T-boned it when my daughter was driving. The 70 was then totaled and taken before I could have the injectors serviced. But I found and bought 2 '86 BJ70s which I have been driving for years now. When the 3Bs in the '86s started to smoke and didn't start as crisply, I had the injectors serviced. This cleared up the smoke and how they started. The only difference between Canadian spec '85 and '86 BJ70s is the 12V versus 24V electrical systems. Mechanically, the 3Bs were pretty much the same. Based on this experience, I would suggest having your injectors serviced as a possible starting point.

Good luck.

 

[Ginger ale]

Looks like an exceptional find. My first BJ70 was an '85 Canadian spec 70 like yours, but she had more challenges with rust than what yours appears to have.

It also had the same starting behavior as yours. It was my understanding that my injectors were dirty and needed to be serviced. Regrettably, a knucklehead ran a stop light and T-boned it when my daughter was driving. The 70 was then totaled and taken before I could have the injectors serviced. But I found and bought 2 '86 BJ70s which I have been driving for years now. When the 3Bs in the '86s started to smoke and didn't start as crisply, I had the injectors serviced. This cleared up the smoke and how they started. The only difference between Canadian spec '85 and '86 BJ70s is the 12V versus 24V electrical systems. Mechanically, the 3Bs were pretty much the same. Based on this experience, I would suggest having your injectors serviced as a possible starting point.

Good luck.

Yes, I also believe the issue likely lies somewhere in the fuel system.
As soon as I get around to working on it, I’ll keep you updated on the progress — perhaps you’ll be able to offer some useful advice or share your experience. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
In my case, this is my first Land Cruiser, and it’s how I began my journey into the world of these legendary vehicles. I was inspired by my friend, who showed me just how reliable and durable these machines are.
Although the condition of his vehicles was far from perfect, I was truly amazed at how well they continued to run despite their state. He owns four Land Cruisers, all Canadian-spec BJ70s with diesel engines.
I’m very pleased with this purchase — I’ve long wanted a Land Cruiser in this color. My friend had the exact same model, and it always stood out among the others.

 

[Ginger ale]

hard start problems "usually" are glow plug related. test the system.

As soon as I start working on this issue, I’ll definitely check the glow plugs.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Nice find! As stated, I think your starting and smoking problem will be injectors.

The leaking oil on the front wheel suggests the dreaded knuckle rebuild which may have you regretting having joined the Land Cruiser owners community, until you get it finished at least.

You mention AC, does it have an original AC system?

How about showing us some engine pics?

 

[Ginger ale]

Nice find! As stated, I think your starting and smoking problem will be injectors.

The leaking oil on the front wheel suggests the dreaded knuckle rebuild which may have you regretting having joined the Land Cruiser owners community, until you get it finished at least.

You mention AC, does it have an original AC system?

How about showing us some engine pics?

Thanks! Yeah, I also think the starting and smoke issues are likely due to the injectors — I’ll be looking into that soon.
As for the leak — yep, the oil on the front wheel is a clear sign it’s time to deal with the knuckle. A bit intimidating, but I know it’s a common issue on these trucks. Hopefully I can handle it myself.
Unfortunately, there’s no AC.
I’ll try to take some photos over the weekend — not just of the engine, but a full walkaround.

 

[Felde]

Hopefully I can handle it myself.

Yes, you can, if you have some basic mechanical skills (if not, it's the wrong rig for you anyways). Some good planning for action & parts, the FSM, some basic tools, lots of rakes, some time, some beer and some space to make a mess is all it needs.
You need to undo the brakes and the hard lines to the calipers. If you are not familiar with brake jobs, you might want to involve somebody knowledgeable, for safety reasons.
You need the 54mm socket for the spindel nut, a brass drift, a soft-faced hammer and a pair of flat-headed snapring pliers. A puller to undo the tierod end ball joints and an oilseal extractor and a brakeline spanner come in handy. Rest is normal tools.
50% more rakes and 100% more gloves than you ever expect.
4-5 cartridges of MoS2 grease, some good wheel bearing grease, diff oil.
You need to make a good plan on what all you need / want to replace once you are in there. This is a 'do it once for the next years to come' job'. In particular assess your brake disks and wheel studs. Make sure you get all parts and gaskets, including some spares for usually reusable items like bolts and cone washers.
Look up your model by VIN on partsouq.com or amayama.com and check the parts diagrams and the FSM to understand how things work.
Here is the best vid I know on the process, for mental prep and training.

Lots of post on the topic here, too.
Good Luck and have fun. Wrenching like this is part of the fun owing such a rig.
Cheers Ralf

 

[Ginger ale]

Yes, you can, if you have some basic mechanical skills (if not, it's the wrong rig for you anyways). Some good planning for action & parts, the FSM, some basic tools, lots of rakes, some time, some beer and some space to make a mess is all it needs.
You need to undo the brakes and the hard lines to the calipers. If you are not familiar with brake jobs, you might want to involve somebody knowledgeable, for safety reasons.
You need the 54mm socket for the spindel nut, a brass drift, a soft-faced hammer and a pair of flat-headed snapring pliers. A puller to undo the tierod end ball joints and an oilseal extractor and a brakeline spanner come in handy. Rest is normal tools.
50% more rakes and 100% more gloves than you ever expect.
4-5 cartridges of MoS2 grease, some good wheel bearing grease, diff oil.
You need to make a good plan on what all you need / want to replace once you are in there. This is a 'do it once for the next years to come' job'. In particular assess your brake disks and wheel studs. Make sure you get all parts and gaskets, including some spares for usually reusable items like bolts and cone washers.
Look up your model by VIN on partsouq.com or amayama.com and check the parts diagrams and the FSM to understand how things work.
Here is the best vid I know on the process, for mental prep and training.

Lots of post on the topic here, too.
Good Luck and have fun. Wrenching like this is part of the fun owing such a rig.
Cheers Ralf

Thanks a lot for sharing the video link — really appreciate it!
I watched it, and honestly, nothing looks too complicated. The key is to be patient, stay focused, and take your time. And like you said — definitely going to need more gloves than expected