I didn't try the dakota digital adapter, I went with an autometer adapter that takes the signal off of the coil power wires. This was before folks knew a whole lot about it (I didn't know about pull-up resistors, or modding tach signals in HP Tuners) so I went with what I could find would work at the time. The adapter is pretty much integrated into the harness so it's gonna stay.
Since then I learned there are easier ways to do it and wish I had done it simpler to make it less cluttered. It was especially frustrating to learn that you could mod the tach signal with HP tuners especially since I have it and have used it a bunch.
As far as the check valve goes i didn't run one for the last 100+k miles and it works ok, it only got kinda interesting when the motor stalled on BIG obstacles. Now I get three pedal pushed with boost after the motor is shut off. I'd add one if I were you.
maybe the chevy boosters had an internal check valve?
possibly they did. at any rate, I am running an automatic trans so stalling shouldn't be an issue.
Lately I started thinking about switching to a mechanical clutch fan. While my rig has never overheated, i feel like the huge lincoln fans I installed are a big drain on the electrical system so when they are running and other circuits are powered up, there's a big hit to the charging system. You can feel it in the motor when they kick on.
I may just try it out. The vortec mechanical fans are cheap on ebay. It seems that my commute up and down parker rd are just at that speed where there is not quite enough passive air flow through the radiator to keep the motor under the fan activation temp so they cycle on/off. Once i get over ~48mph, then the motor will stay under 200f. I set my on point for low speed at 205 and off at 200 so they don't run at highway speeds. then of course a/c performance suffers because of the heat load put into the condenser and not enough air flow. seems to be a balancing act to get it right.