new front axle assembly (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landarcht
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
This situation just keeps getting better. I talked to another dealership parts, they are up front and did tell me the price difference between the two. And looks like what I just posted price if $456 is for one. Here's the kicker, he told me Toyota did authorize this remanufactured axle that they offer lifetime warranty parts and labor, across all dealership. Vs the genuine OEM is 12 months unlimited miles, which doesn't make sense to me...my heads hurting from this. The dealer I had it installed at told me 12 months, did specify parts or labor. This other dealer I just spoke to told me this is Toyota program across the board so they need to honor it. I'm going to call corporate tomorrow to get to the bottom of this.
I'm not sure what the pictures are supposed to show but here's the advice I would give you, unless there is a problem with the vehicle, let it go. You got Toyota parts, maybe not the exact ones you want but ones that are sold through dealerships all the time. As I understand it the biggest issue with the non-yellow band CV joints is that they won't balance sometimes. If your truck isn't wobbling, and apparently it isn't, then that issue didn't occur with these axles. As for the alignment, well that's one that I would have pressed them on a bit more. When they say they can't adjust it more to get it in spec that means the alignment guy can't adjust it more or didn't know where else to look. Also, caster is primarily to ensure your wheels will want to return to center if you let go of the steering wheel in a turn, they want to track straight.
So to summarize, you said your truck drives fine but then you learned about yellow band vs non-yellow band axles and started feeling ripped off. Unfortunately, if you didn't stipulate which parts they had to use then they used adequate parts in the repair. And in truth, these axles are probably just fine. So don't get wrapped around the axles on this one (see what I did there?).
As for the caster issue, I would pursue that one. It's likely the control arm bushing are worn and causing that. But if it's driving fine and not making funny noises, just drive it.
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ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
This could be as simple as a mistake by one person (choosing the wrong selection in a parts pull down menu, for instance) and the mistake propagated through.
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- Thread starter
- #25
I appreciate your perspective. And with the different warranty between the two types one being less expensive but lifetime warranty really makes my head scratch.
I will check on the steering returning to canter. But that particular wheel is 1/2" higher than all the rest. They did replace the sway bar link bushings not sure if that's the same? But they did a full inspection and should let me know if that's causing it to be out of spec.
I will check on the steering returning to canter. But that particular wheel is 1/2" higher than all the rest. They did replace the sway bar link bushings not sure if that's the same? But they did a full inspection and should let me know if that's causing it to be out of spec.
You were not charged for the real deal and I’ve seen several people post stating dealership does not always install real Toyota axles. If it makes you feel any better I’ve Got cardones on my truck for about 15k miles now without complaint. I’ve towed a 3500lb camper on a couple of adventures during that time with nothing bad to report. I would have them correct the alignment for sure.
NOT for a pair. Genuine OEM *yellow band* are about that price each.
The Cardone HD *with heavy thermoplasic boot* can be had for about $175.00 per pair from RockAuto and the like.
- Thread starter
- #28
Just spoke to one of the service managers, he did confirm the axle I got has lifetime warranty but will get back to me regarding labor coverage which should be as well. If that's the case, I will just stick with what I have now. They will look at the alignment, I told them why they released the car with one still out of spec and left me with the photo instruction??
Thanks for all you guys input! I will need to find someone I can trust in Central Florida.
Thanks for all you guys input! I will need to find someone I can trust in Central Florida.
Cautiously, would be my suggestion. There might not have been any intentional effort to deceive. Since the dealership offers the 'Value Line' part *relabeled Cardone part* it is technically a OEM *approved* part according to them, albeit a lesser quality part as hinted to in the name. IF you were not charged the amount of new OEM CV's then it comes down to a misunderstanding as to what was supposed to be put on the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #30
Agreed. I was charged $400 for the pair. I guess it was my ignorance as I didn't know the price of each genuine OEM axle is more than doubled. Anywhere from $456 -$600+ each I found so far. But at least the lifetime warranty gives me a piece of mind. Just waiting to confirm the labor part now...
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Did you go the dealership on 436 or off of I-4?
- Thread starter
- #32
I think that's Orlando Toyota. I did few times before but no longer. I went to the one on Clermont off Hwy 50 FL. First time with my cruiser. The price was competitive with a local shop that I didn't feel comfortable with so I went with the dealer, but I'm still trying to find a mechanic I can trust in Central Florida. Moved from So Cal four years ago..mechanics are hit and miss in certain areas.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
What do folks recommend in your Clubhouse section?
- Thread starter
- #34
I'm going to give Cruiser Matt a try. As long as he has time freed from from what he usually works on the FJ's or vintage models. The only other major work I need now that axle has been taken care of is the Cat, been throwing P430 code for bank 2 cat, another money pit.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Thank you for posting this Flint! I have been meaning to search for an alternative to the OEM clips for mine!!!
- Thread starter
- #36
So the front left caster is the culprit. Car steers back straight by itself after making right turn but it won't after making left turn.
But goes fairly straight once I manually corrects steering. No sounds and no wobbling or shaking. They need to adjust this and lower the front left by 1/2". Hope they don't blame it on something else.
But goes fairly straight once I manually corrects steering. No sounds and no wobbling or shaking. They need to adjust this and lower the front left by 1/2". Hope they don't blame it on something else.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Stock front suspension? LC and not LX? No AHC?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
How did you determine it was the caster on the left?
- Thread starter
- #39
Based on the chart they measured and printed out for me I posted at beginning of this thread; it's the only wheel that's out of spec after alignment and 1/2"the higher than rest. Also from test drive earlier and the car won't correct itself after turning or even lane changing to left, anything right works fine.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Are the ball joints fully, properly seated?
