That's why they call it Cruiser PornI like truck parts and stuff... but not enough to think bed-sheets n nudie tahm!
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- Thread starter
- #22
No, but my mechanic advised me not to be harsh on them for first 200-300 miles. I could hear the friction from the pad on the rotor for at least 8 days esp while turning, a loud terrible scrapping sound-sounded like I was driving a cheap hooptie. I took it back to the mechanic and the sounds went away. He drove my car for a day and didn't hear anything. He said that probably new pads needed to settle, esp using aftermarket/performance pads. I will try bed in procedure over the weekend as pads feel very fresh and probably haven't morphed in with rotor. The bed in procedure seems a bit subtle, I would have thought slamming the brake at a higher speed would be more efficient.
I drove a 2010 LX w/100k miles a few weeks ago and it had good brakes even though it had considerable rust on the under carriage with stock 18" wheels. It felt like it stopped from high speeds without breaking a sweat. But maybe its because LX is slower than the LC and I drive with a heavy foot, always accelerating/decelerating pretty fast? 0-60 on lx is 0.3 mph slower or maybe AHC stops the brake dive?
Good info on brake break-in. My new '17 has very non-linear, grabby brakes. When they grab, the truck stops, but it's hard to modulate. From this thread and others, it seems that's not normal for a 200. I may look into better pads before I start towing this spring. Grabby brakes are more than just annoying when towing. Any other ideas on how to restore linear braking force would be welcome.
I'd try EBC red's - nice grip but then do throw a fair amount of dust.....
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
Or try EBC 7000 Green Stuff.
Actually that sounds normal to me. I wouldn't say grabby, exactly, but the braking pressure is definitely non-linear - initial pressure on the brakes doesn't feel like it would ever stop the truck but if you press into hard them you'll definitely stop faster than you ever thought a 3 ton truck could. Not sure how old your truck is but you could have some air in the lines or old fluid or something which might be causing a bit of loss of brake feel initially?
One thing I've noticed when towing is that I struggle to get the correct amount of braking force in the trailer brake controller. At lower settings I feel like the LC does all the work, but at heavy braking pressure I'll lock up the trailer brakes. Maybe there's a better controller for the LC out there, but this one worked fine in my '08 Acura MDX which makes me think it's due to the non-linear braking of the LC.
Tekonsha Primus IQ Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 3 Axles - Proportional Tekonsha Brake Controller TK90160
You're right on. I probably overstated the "grabbiness", but it's so non-linear that's it's hard to stop smoothly and I'm sure I'll have the same trouble you are experiencing with the trailer brakes. It's so non-linear that it's not just a matter of getting used to it. I use a P3 controller that has been a perfect mate between the brakes on my camper and the brakes on my 100. What I'm going to attempt is to find some pads that have a linear "bite" to them so the P3 (which is proportional like your IQ) can do it's job with the trailer brakes. The 200 is new, so I suppose it could still be breaking in the pads, but I've never had to break in OEM brakes before.
I'm running the TRD pads on stock rotors and OE rubber lines with no complaints. I'm heavier than most if not all of you guys and with larger tires. The change up in pads was a huge + from OEM. Brakes must be a very personal feel item for folks. I had few conversations with @Taco2Cruiser prior to purchasing the current pads I'm running and he helped me understand pads better than I did at the time. TRD pads do generate dust but again the positives outweigh the dust - no noise here
hate to hear they didn't meet your expectations - that's not a cheap change over.
hate to hear they didn't meet your expectations - that's not a cheap change over.
To echo linuxgod, try bleeding. I really noticed a gradual deceleration then hitting a point in pedal travel where things really started to grab. Once I added my RW wheels and KO2's it became noticeably worse (or recognizable is probably a better description). Hooked up my Motiv bleeder and as Markusen advised (with key in "on" position) bled the heck out of the brakes.
Noticeably better afterward. Still not like a German sedan but much more linear than before.
Noticeably better afterward. Still not like a German sedan but much more linear than before.
I have had the Tekonsha P3 in my LC and pulled my 25' trailer to the Yukon and back with none of the adjustment issues you describe. I just installed a new P3 in my LX but haven't towed yet. I would suggest not going with the entry level controller.
I don't have the same "non-linear" experience nor do I share the common opinion that the brakes are inadequate. I have over 200,000 miles on my '08 LC and although the pedal is quite forgiving I put it down to being a 3 ton luxury vehicle with a luxury vehicle pedal 'application curve'. I have never felt that the brakes weren't going to stop the truck. I know that when I get into my 4Runner I almost put myself through the windshield until I adjust to the stiffer pedal but I don't feel like it stops any faster. Just a stiffer pedal.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I'll just drop this Easter egg here.
Working on write up with part numbers and procedure for Tundra brake swap.
Working on write up with part numbers and procedure for Tundra brake swap.
- Thread starter
- #32
After 2 weeks of driving with TRD pads, the brakes do feel stronger and are not making any noise now. Brakes do seem more responsive but not german level. I was hoping for a bigger difference after driving the LX570 but I think AHC might change the way the LX brakes.
My 100 series is just like your 4Runner. The LX gives WAY more in pedal feel than the 100. Still stops, and I pull a 26 footer with it with no issues stopping.
I installed the TRD pads on freshly turned rotors this week. The break-in procedures seemed a bit excessive, but after reading here maybe not. I don't think I got as aggressive as they suggest but I was on the brakes, very hard (no smoking though). The instructions also suggest a second break-in procedure, we'll see how they do.
Pdf file of the TRD instructions attached.
Pdf file of the TRD instructions attached.
I had TRD pads on stock rotors. I thought they had excellent pedal feel, but they were so dirty and destroyed the rotors.
I have been running Powerstop Z36 for the past two years, about 40k miles. It takes a little more pressure, but when they grab, watch out. You going to eat a face full of windshield.
I have been running Powerstop Z36 for the past two years, about 40k miles. It takes a little more pressure, but when they grab, watch out. You going to eat a face full of windshield.
After the break-in this morning, the do "bite". Since I'm running old rotors that were turned, not to worried, we'll see how they hold up, thanks for the info.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I'm really liking the Centric HD pads. The feel a little weak first thing in the morning, but are fine within a mile or so. They still have the Landcruiser feel, soft and smooth, then bite progressively better as you apply more brake, its just a lot more braking power with less pedal input.
haven't towed the boat with them yet, but during the rapid deceleration break in, the tires were barking and scratching, begging me to stop the torture. Never saw that much grip with the stock setup.
They do seem to be putting out more dust than the stockers. Not TRD levels, but more than stock.
haven't towed the boat with them yet, but during the rapid deceleration break in, the tires were barking and scratching, begging me to stop the torture. Never saw that much grip with the stock setup.
They do seem to be putting out more dust than the stockers. Not TRD levels, but more than stock.
Save your time and money and just purchase the PFC Brakes and be done with it. They were designed for the armored 200 Series and work awesome. The two piece rotor design eliminated all the warping and vibration issues I was having. These things work extremely well. For those with deeper pockets they also offer a complete BBK for front and rear.
