65psi is not a recommended pressure, it is a MAX pressure.
New BFG AT KO. LC handles horribly now.
- Thread starter dougparis
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65psi is not a recommended pressure, it is a MAX pressure.
The ignorance of some tire techs has always amazed me. I've also heard some say that the posted pressure on the sidewall is the pressure which should be used, even tho it say MAX.
Also, keep in mind that not only your speedometer shows a lower speed than actual, but your odometer also does not show true miles traversed.
Also, keep in mind that not only your speedometer shows a lower speed than actual, but your odometer also does not show true miles traversed.
I run at 40psi on my BFG it was a difference when switching from stock michelin that came with the truck. One big thing you should consider it that they are balanced correctly also. the alignment and balance would adversely affect the handling!!
You need to find out what the recommended range is, and not go lower than that, otherwise warranty will not cover you. I have Duratrac's and my minimum drive rating is 40psi, and that's what I run 98% of all my driving. Only on very long gravel roads do I lower pressure for a smoother ride.
Why not just calculate the correct pressue you should be running? Your 100 is stock, so this should be super easy for you. There is a formula for calculating the air pressure of a non-standard sized/load rated tire using the tire pressure recommendations on the sticker in the door jamb. Since Land Cruisers have different pressure recommendations front and rear, you need to use the formula twice.
It is as follows:
[Original Tires Max Load Rating] * [Sticker's Recommended P.S.I.] / [Original Tires Max P.S.I.] * [New Tires Max P.S.I.] / [New Tires Max Load Rating]
It is as follows:
[Original Tires Max Load Rating] * [Sticker's Recommended P.S.I.] / [Original Tires Max P.S.I.] * [New Tires Max P.S.I.] / [New Tires Max Load Rating]
Ok but now lets get someone to weigh front & rear axles on a stock truck and then how do we calculate the correct pressure for the added weight?
I know I have seen a formula for that before but the only way I know how (and how I do it on my own rigs) is weigh the front and rear axles and make a load/PSI chart for whatever tire I'm running and figure it out that way.
BTW, where in MA are you? And which Costco did you go to? I think I'll be avoiding that one
275/70/18 BFG's here...I run 38psi in the front and 40 in the rear. Ride is great; only complaint is my MPG dropped slightly.
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As for Costco techs, they were only going by what the computer told them. So the trick is to just tell them what you want instead of them telling you. Costco also seems to have the best prices. I hit the Nashua NH one and saved on the sales tax. I paid $1011 for 4 BFG AT KO 285/75-16 which includes a $14/tire mount, balance and includes a free lifetime balance, rotate and flat repair. So it was a pretty good deal after checking NTB and Town Fair.
175,000 miles at 35psi and going strong
John, please....go away.
65PSI? No amount of $aving$ is worth dealing with droids that dumb.
I miss my BFG AT/KO's and can't wait to get another set.
I miss my BFG AT/KO's and can't wait to get another set.
I run 305 KM-2s (33"). I have ran them at 50PSI. Rode like a skateboard. I lowered them to 40PSI and felt ever bump in the road, much improved over 50PSI. I have settled at 36PSI(front) and 34PSI(rear). It does have a little more sway to it, running 75-80MPH from Atlanta to Charlotte the sideways do not get hot, within 15*F-20*F to outside tempurate. I ran 30PSI when I first got them and smelled the rubber it was so hot.
Probably late to the game here but have the same tires on my '99 and 35 psi all around seems to be the best for the road. I have been real pleased with the BFGs after three sets of LTXs. Good luck!
Calculations don't work other than to find a starting point. All tire designs are different and it depends greatly on your intended use, ambient temperature etc, etc, etc. Hence why we use different trail pressures vs highway pressures for best handling under different conditions. For street use studying the contact patch and thermal profile across the tread is a great method. It's a lot of trial and error experimentation to get it nailed.
For general LC use just ask the forum what different set ups work well and you will get a general consensus as you see here.
My BFG's I run right around 38 for long highway use and around 34-35 in town to add a little cushion. THEN I air down some more if I'm spending a weekend or so on harder trails. I avoid hard cornering in the LC in general.