NEW 60 owner wishing I had fuel injection....

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Something that borders on semantics, but can effect your logic process in tuning these carbs is that the idle fuel screw does not control mixture. The Idle Jet does that. The screw controls the volume of mixed air & fuel at idle and is referred to in Weber literature and "Idle Volume Screw." It's not all of the air needed for the engine to idle, but it is not pure fuel either. This is why it is crucial to get the correct size idle jets in the carb.

The link posted above is exactly how I tune the DGV on my air cooler and it has yet to fail me and has always resulted in a carb that behaves itself in a wide variety of situations. You can not tune the mains until after you have the idle jets correct.

Calling them idle jets is also misleading. They are part of the fuel delivery circuit up to about 3000 RPM. At that point the mains come in. With a 2F's RPM range you can see how important it is to have these correctly sized.
 
I bet you got some nice coin for the 99 on the recall.

I heard that most made out like champs.

Bought it used with 35k on it, It had 150k on it 6 years later and Toyota paid me more than I paid for it. So yeah I made out good.;)
I drove that truck sooooo hard. The 3.4, was by far the best engine I've ever owned. It was supercharged for the last 50k miles of it's life, without any fuel upgrades, and still never failed. TPS was the only thing I ever had to do to it. Didn't even do the timing belt. Kinda miss it right now with Tom Cruiser (yup thats the FJ's name) running bad and a couple inches of snow on the ground.......
 
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what part of KC are you at? There are a couple of us in the area that might be able to help ya out in person as long as the temps are above what they were today.

Some help on it would be awesome. I'm in KCK (635 & Parallel). I could limp it just about anywhere around for some help though. It's supposed to be a little warmer tomorrow; I'm going to try a hose into a gas can, see if that solves anything.
 
One more thing. Those air cleaners that come with the Weber kits don't flow enough air. If you remove it and take a short drive you will see what I mean. There are adapters that will allow for a standard round AC to be used, a 10" with a K&N element works well, flows more air and won't hit the other under-the-hood hardware in the area like the brake junk. Just an FYI...

I had read that before I ordered the carb, so I bought a plenum adapter (of course it doesn't fit this carb correctly, I'll have to grind a little bit of the bottom plate and drill a couple new holes). I did take the filter off, and try that (before and after I messed up the carb) but I didn't notice any difference....
 
3 more posts and you get an avatar, so, did the header and gasket come from JT too?

Yeah I got the header from JT too. The gasket came in the box with the header, I knew it was $hit when I saw it. But I didn't expect much for $159.
 
sorry if it's already been suggested(i skimmed) but, if you want fuel injection why not build a 2fe?
 
sorry if it's already been suggested(i skimmed) but, if you want fuel injection why not build a 2fe?

The thread title was just to represent my frustration with carbs. I plan on putting a 1uzfe in it next year. Just need it to run the way it is for awhile.
 
So I took the carb off, took the whole thing apart, cleaned every passaged, jet and needle in the thing. Didn't see any chunks or anything in it. Put it back on and stuck my fuel supply line into a clean bottle of fresh gas. No changes. The damn thing still stutters bad from idle until the secondary opens up. I have to feather it to even get to the secondary. It idles fine......
 
Got a chance to mess with my carb a little. Called Weber and they are sending me some new jets and a diagram. And they told me the baseline setting of the idle mixture screw is 1 turn out. So I did that and it's a little better.
It still stumbles bad in the lower RPMS. I think I have a fuel delivery problem. My FP gauge starts dropping down the more I rap it out. And if I hold my hand over the secondary, covering 2/3rds of it, it revs up just fine. What is in the secondary that affects the lower rpms, before the secondary butterfly is even open?
 
This paragraph from the above link is the crucial element in tuning one of these carbs:

Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 11/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too small). When the mixture screw is ½ turn or less, then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 1/2 turn in. If the speed screw has to be opened1/2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. Please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.
I've experienced what you are describing when this hasn't been done. If the idle volume screw(s) are outside of their specs, then you need to change the idle jet(s). Too far in = need smaller idle jet. Too far out = need larger idle jet.
IME Weber carbs don't like or want more than 4 psi at the float needle.
 
If you search you'll prolly find that the Fel-Pro gasket is the top choice, over even the stock Toyota.
 
Well I finally got my Weber figured out. The jetting was all jacked up, even thought "JT Outfitters DID THE RESEARCH SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO!!".... According to their description. Bunch of BS.

The main jet in the primary was a 130 and the main in the secondary was 150.... The slow jet in the primary was 55 and the slow jet in the secondary was 47.5.

I now have a 160 and 60 in the primary and 150 and 55 in the secondary. Much better. I'm still going to order some more, and tweak it a little.

Are the primary jets usually bigger than the secondary jets? Only reason I did that was because I read it somewhere...... I'm new to any carbs other than motorcycles....

Thanks for all the replies.
 
Well I finally got my Weber figured out. The jetting was all jacked up, even thought "JT Outfitters DID THE RESEARCH SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO!!".... According to their description. Bunch of BS.

The main jet in the primary was a 130 and the main in the secondary was 150.... The slow jet in the primary was 55 and the slow jet in the secondary was 47.5.

I now have a 160 and 60 in the primary and 150 and 55 in the secondary. Much better. I'm still going to order some more, and tweak it a little.

Are the primary jets usually bigger than the secondary jets? Only reason I did that was because I read it somewhere...... I'm new to any carbs other than motorcycles....

Thanks for all the replies.

If your versed in jetting motorcycle carbs, Webers should be easy for you, the same principles apply with the exception of there not being any metering needle to play with. I take it you have a 32/36 DGEP?
 
If your versed in jetting motorcycle carbs, Webers should be easy for you, the same principles apply with the exception of there not being any metering needle to play with. I take it you have a 32/36 DGEP?

Except that motorcycle carbs are usually jetted the same all the way across, no primary/secondary to deal with. So should the primary have larger jets than the secondary on a Weber 34/34 (that's what my carb is)?
 
Not having ever seen this variant of the carb, is it a synchronous 2 barrel or is it a progressive?

Usually the secondary jetting on a progressive is richer since you're then asking for power and not cruise economy. Have you tried just switching the jet sets around?
 
Not having ever seen this variant of the carb, is it a synchronous 2 barrel or is it a progressive?

Usually the secondary jetting on a progressive is richer since you're then asking for power and not cruise economy. Have you tried just switching the jet sets around?

It's progressive. It's running pretty good the way it is, but I'll switch them around and see if it gets rid of the mid throttle stumble. Wide open it's flowing trough both so it shouldn't matter, that was my thinking anyway... Especially since it's a 34/34 compared to a 32/36.
But I don't know, that's why I'm on here. ;)

thanks
 

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